Quote from: Chaparral66 on January 28, 2014, 09:56:19 AM
Thank you for your reply and advice concerning my Bachmann 4-8-4 Niagara.  I think I will have the plugs installed to disconnect the DCC option.  I now recall that I did that with my Bachmann Spectrum J Class and it may have run a little faster afterwards (though I am not sure about that).  In any event, the J is a good runner on a DC layout.

When I said the J "flew around" my layout I meant that it could run at full speed (maybe 80 mph scale) across the whole layout and never derail.  I realize that that is not prototypical but I mentioned it only to say that while my track work is imperfect, it is pretty good and not so bad that another Bachmann 4-8-4 locomotive couldn't handled it easily.  I do think that the Niagara's tender is problematic from a design point of view.  It may look realistic with the 5 centipede fixed wheels at the back but it is not practical to run.  While my sharpest mainline turns are 22 radius (with a few pinch points where it may be less for a small arc of the turn), I also have grade changes with transitions on curves which all my other locomotives are OK with but I think they too are playing havoc with the Niagara because of the 5 fixed wheels on the tender.  Anyway, I think I will add some weight to the tender as recommended and tinker with the track.  I just don't want to tear large portions of it up to accommodate this locomotive.  I would have liked to see a different tender design.  Thanks! 

I too have the same problem with the engine derailing the tender  I think the design of the coupler is poor as it pushes the tender off of the track.  Also the wires can cause a derailment.  I pushed them back a bit into the tender and this helped a little.  I am now adding weights to the tender a few grams at a time to see if this helps.   

Quote from: richg on January 04, 2014, 06:04:57 PM
If the loco came in a box, the single page diagram will be in the bottom of the box.
There ia a six pin DC adapter that plugs into the eight pin socket in the tender. That is not a chip.
The diagram for the loco is in the Parts page.
DCC info also.
Do yourself a favor and look over ALL the Bachmann pages.
There should be a draw bar between the loco and tender.
Almost sounds like you got a used loco.

Rich


Thanks.  It's not used.  I have the box and single page blowup.  What does the 6 pin adapter do?  There is a draw bar between the engine and tender, but I really don't see how to use it easily.  Is it supposed to attach and unattach easily or hook up sort-of permanently? 

I recently pruchased a new k4 4-6-2 #84013 DCC and I have a couple of questions.  It did not come with a printed manual; and has an extra "chip" enclosed with it.  What is it for?  Second:  does the tender only attach to the engine with the plugs and wires that run between the tender and the engine?  Is there a manual available on line/  Thanks

Quote from: srevac on September 19, 2011, 04:47:16 PM
I know this topic is old but I just unpacked a controller and have the same problem you do except my engines don't do the little "move".  The lights work.  When I revert to channel 3 they work normally.  Have you been able to correct this and if so, how?  Thanks.   

Problems solved!  The enclosed instructions were wrong.  The correct info is in the posting above.  thanks anyway. 

Quote from: johnspat1 on August 29, 2011, 12:46:00 PM
I had the same problem when I purchased my E-Z Command.  I found that the instruction booklet was incorrect and when I downloaded the instructions from Bachmann there was a slight ,but significant difference. Try and print the following: www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/ezcommand.php?ezpage+1

Great information.  I just unpack my E-Z Command controller and the same thing (as above) happened.  I too downloaded the corrected instructions and now everything is fine.  Great Forum with great members.  Thanks. 

I know this topic is old but I just unpacked a controller and have the same problem you do except my engines don't do the little "move".  The lights work.  When I revert to channel 3 they work normally.  Have you been able to correct this and if so, how?  Thanks.   

One might be advised to shop around even at refurbished prices.  I just bought a Silver Series 40' stock car #18501 on e-bay form The Favorite Spot for less than $8.00 with box, new steel wheels etc. while the refurbished site was asking $10.00 for an older model...plastic wheels, no box.   

Quote from: Doneldon on February 12, 2011, 07:19:51 PM
Vago-

Just for the record, all caps is used to signify yelling.

                                                    -- D

Very good point.  Very annoying.  Someone should also train the e-bay sellers.  R.

I'm just getting into HO and I read this thread about trouble with E-Z switches.  I have been considering buying some used E-Z  nickel, gray track and switches.  Should I stay away from this brand?  What's the best way to go.  Thanks.  Rich

Quote from: Bluecoatscheesypoofs on December 28, 2010, 12:53:28 AM
The front truck does NOT have a spring on it. Make sure that the screw holding the truck down is not too tight. This may be the issue. If you have further difficulties send your locomotive in to Bachmann with a proof of purchase and they will repair it for free.
              Matt Wilson

I recently aquired a #806 Union Pacific that looks like the one from the Overland Express set and it DOES  have a spring on the front truck. 

Because a set comes with 22" radius track, does that mean the set will not run on lesser curves?  I'm referring to the Royal Gorge set.  thanks

Thanks.  Rich

I've been looking at a couple of similar Bachmann F7-A's to buy.  Can someone tell what EMD is?  Thanks