I have a Bachmann Ben Franklin Ltd HO train set. I am thinking about going to a DCC layout system. Can I convert my American 4-4-0 to a DCC compatible engine? I want to be able to run multiple trains on the same layout. Can I do this, and how?
Thanks. :)
mlt1
My understanding is that anything CAN be converted to DCC. The question is, is it worth the time, trouble, and possible expense to do so. A couple of questions.
What kind of a motor does your locomotive have? It's much easier to convert a can motor than an open frame or pancake.
Is your motor isolated from the frame? If it is not, how hard is it to isolate?
Do you just want DCC, or do you want sound as well?
Do you have electrical pickup from the tender?
Gene
Thanks for the reply, SteamGene.
I'm sorry to say, I don't know the answers to your questions. I am a very new beginner to model railroading. I just bought my train set as a starter set a few weeks ago. I'm still on the upside of the "learning curve". Maybe we should "cut to the chase" and ask, what would the conversion cost? If it is as much as the whole layout was in the beginning, maybe I should run it as a separate loop. Your thoughts?
Thanks.
mlt1
I'd say run your set for several weeks and see what you think of it.
My personal feeling is that DCC is not worth the effort for a simple 4x8 layout with two locomotives, or even three. If you advance beyond that, then DCC is the way to go. Others have different ideas and please consider theirs.
In the meantime, learn a bit more about what you have. :)
Gene
I will go along with Gene. You asked for cost. Decoders cost from say $18 to $60. Dcc system from $75 to $500. There is other costs depending on the size of the layout.
MLT1
In my opinion, it would be more economical to just buy DCC Equipped locos. For example, you can pick up a Bachmann 2-8-0 DCC Equipped, for about $120. It will run out of the box on your present DC Power pack.
A Bachmann EZ Command control system is only about $80, good for entry level, or if you have the bucks, NCE Power Cab is a complete hand held system for around $140, and you would probably never outgrow it.
When you have 4 or 5 DCC locos, then going to a DCC control will give you more flexibility, but running multiple locos on a small layout is not practical.
Bo
Thanks for the help, everyone.
Bojangle, you said I can run a DCC engine out of the box on my present layout and power pack? The guy at the store I bought my stuff at said DCC engines running on a regular track and pack may get warm / hot. Is he right? :-\
Thanks.
mlt1
He has it backward. Running a DC (analog) loco on a DCC powered track might cause the loco to get warm if left sitting. The Bachmann DCC loco has a rectifier ciruit built in to let it run on the AC power of DCC. I have been running all my DCC locos on DC with no problem. Some brands of DCC locos require adding or removing a jumper to allow it to run on DC. I said "Bachmann DCC runs on DC out of the box". I can't speak for other companies. Always check the instructions.
With DCC, full power is applied to the track at all times. Some DCC controllers (Bachmann EZ command,for one) can control one analog loco on Number 10, but if the loco is left sitting still, it could burn up the motor.
More advanced DCC controllers do not support analog locos, particular the hand held cabs like NCE and MRC, I don't know if Digitrax supports analog, Gene would know.
Bo
Thanks, Bo.
PS - I sent you a PM when I was looking at another topic. Did you get it? I'm not sure it went. Kept getting the same screen over and over.
mlt1
The PM apparently doesn't work here. I will send you an email if that is ok with you.
I'll be away for a couple of hours, will check this post later today.
Bo
I also have a question regarding DCC. I haven't had a model railway since I was around 6, (which consisted of just one train going in a circle). Right now I am 14. I really do plan on starting again but have quite a few questions. After reading this thread I decided to just stick with DC, as I only plan to have 2-3 locomotives .
My question however is that if 3 separate railway lines going in a loop, but all connect with one another via switches, will i only be able to run all of those lines in only one direction since I only have DC or will I be able to? ???
Thank you very much
It would depend on your power pack. There are some MRC with two controls which would allow you to run one train in one direction and a second in the other. You can also, and probably should, use a power pack for each loop. You would have to isolate each loop from each other and could only cross over if the power was going in the same direction.
Gene
Thanks alot!
So you are saying that I should get 3 different powerpacks (the modules that control speed correct?) for each loop? Also if I wanted a train to switch track I would have to set all three loops to go in the same direction unless I purchase an MRC unit?
Sorry, I'm quite slow at this.
Also, if I plan to convert my layout into DCC power if needed in the future, is it just in the matter of replacing the powerpack and locomotives?
As John Wayne often said "Don't apologize......" I read your post several times, I think you are saying that you have 3 separate loops, interconnected at switches.
If they are interconnected, then you have a single track as far as power is concerned.
To keep them separate, you would have to isolate the switches from the loops. Clear so far? You need to approach this one step at a time. I have some comments, but will let Gene take it from here, as he is more experienced with multiple trains.
It is refreshing to see youth engaged in this wonderful hobby, even more refreshing to see youth express themselves in an articulate fashion. Welcome to the forum, there are a lot of patient readers here who will be glad to help you. It may take some time, but the answers are here.
Bo
I was a bit hasty in my answer. The small power pack that comes with a train set is good for about one locomotive. If you stick with that you essentially need one powerpack for each loop if you are going to run three at once. However, you can divide the layout into power sections - called districts - and get a bigger powerpack rated for multipule locomotives. If you want to run the trains in opposite directions at the same time you will need to begin your districts by isolating each loop. If you have your eastbound train and try to put it onto a track powered for westbound, you are going to get a short.
You may want to begin by rethinking your layout. How much space do you have? A good rule of thumb is that no track is more than two feet from the edge.
BTW, as a retired English/language arts teacher, I can only add to Bo's congratulations on reading a post that makes sense and is not half textlish.
Gene
Thank you so much for your answers everyone! I think to avoid any risks to just use a DCC layout. It will probably clear up alot of confusion as well. The only problem now is that now i have to end up installing DCC decoders into the engines I plan to buy. (I'm a sucker for Thomas and Friends/British railway models)
Thanks again and one more quickie...
How would you install interior lighting into a passenger car/caboose? (step by step instructions) Would I use a LED or is that too bright? Will I have the option to turn them off during the day using DCC?
Innes:
In order to work this out let me relate a practical experience.
1. If you have 2 separate loops, and want to control each loop and loco individually, you need 2 controllers. I started out that way, so my wife and I could run our trains separately. This worked fine until wife says, "let's switch tracks".
2. On a single track, single throttle, "Park and run" is simple. Just isolate sidings with switches to turn the sidings off or on. You need one more siding than the number of locos on the layout. One loco pulls into a siding, turn the switch off. Turn the switch on for the other siding where you have loco #2 parked, and pull onto the main.
3. Switching tracks, two throttles, gets a bit more involved, but can be fun. We added 2 crossovers (just turnouts nose to nose), Two rights on one side for the inner to outer exchange, and two lefts on other side for outer to inner exchange, all isolated, with switches. Problem solved? Not quite. Wife says she wants to keep her throttle because it "feels" better. So...we added double throw switches to change our throttles (packs) to the other loop. Since the other operator will need total control of the entire layout while making the exchange, the first operator needs to turn his pack off, or have an isolation switch.
All the switches were on a control panel with a diagram, just like real railroads, looked pretty impressive. In DC language, this is loosely called a "block" layout.
Enter DCC. One power pack, one track layout, two operators, two throttles (cabs), no switches (except for remote turnouts). In DCC, the controllers are referred to as "cabs", since each one is in total and separate control of it's accessed loco, and each area is called a "district", as it may or may not be necessarily isolated.
Think this over a bit, don't hesitate to ask if you have more questions. The cost of converting to DCC is not really a factor anymore, you can set up a two cab system for the price of a single sound equipped locomotive. (about $250)
Good luck
Bo
Innes:
My post got on too late and didn't see yours.
Led's are fine for cars. You would also have to add pickups to the car, just a little bent piece of very flexible copper as a "brush" against a metal axle. Change the wheels out to ones that are only insulated on one end.
You can operate the light with DCC, but you would need a wire all the way to the encoder. A tiny switch on the caboose would work.
When you get the led, be sure the proper limiting resistor comes with it. If you buy the leds in bulk, I have a link to a calculator for the size resistor.
Whew, I need a drink, someone else take over lol.....
Bo
Hi Bo,
Yes, when you see this, send me an e-mail. I don't have your address.
Thanks.
mlt1
Dear Innes,
This link from our friend Hunt, et al will help you:
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/
Best Wishes,
Jack