Thanks Bill,
I just made it visible.

Adam

I recently emailed the Bachmann parts department...
Sirs,
I am looking for one Large Scale part number 88005-00S01. Large Scale 4-6-0 left side running board that is directly under the air compressor.
I do not care what the color is, if you have one laying around I would like to purchase it if possible.

Thank you.

And they replied...
?I regret to inform you that we do not have this part by it's self. This part comes with the shell and I regret to say we can not break down the shell.

I find it hard to believe that they don't have one of these laying around, in any color. I would think they would get many 4-6-0s in for body damage repair.

If someone has one, I'd be happy to purchase it from you and pay the postage, email me, it's in my profile.

Thanks.
Adam

I hate to say it but we're a dying breed.
Very few kids, now a days, know anything about mechanical things. they live in a virtual world where they just tap on a screen and see the results on that same screen.

But it's not all doom and gloom, the ones that do know mechanics will save the rest.

Until then, I want to play with my trains!

Adam

Hi MAELLIS,
Hopefully you find a solution to your sound card question.
And I have emailed you.

Adam   

Hi MAELLIS.
I personally haven't seen a Thomas with a sound board in it and the parts breakdown doesn't show a speaker or sound board.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/GTL01-91401.pdf

What I would suggest is a small speaker in the bunker behind the cab and I've heard of guys attaching the sound cards under the roof of the cab where it can't easily be seen unless you are looking up from the bottom. Or, you could ,easily, put everything a trailing car behind the loco.

On a different note, my family and I will be in Bergen on September 2nd and 3rd and taking the train from there to Oslo the morning of the 4th. I hear it's a beautiful, seven and a half hour ride.  We're very excited to be visiting Norway!

Hopefully you'll figure something out.
And have fun with your trains!!

Adam

Good job Neil!
Bill, thanks for the pat on the back!
Happy railroading all!

Adam

dutchbuilder,

Nice looking caboose, great rebuild job.

But I didn't understand a thing I read. Haha

Adam

Trawarr,

As Bill says.

Sounds pretty much cut and dry, remove the bottom, remove the large screws that hold the drive rods onto the front and middle driver wheel sets. then position the middle wheel set with the drive rod connection points in the same position as the rear set, both left and right sides. If they match, replace the drive rod screws and do the same with the front wheel set. If they don't, try flipping the middle wheel set so the wheel that was on the right side is now on the left side and see if the drive rods will line up. Continue on to the front wheel set.

One thing I noticed while working on one of my locos was a small "L" on one wheel and "R" on the other of the same axle. But I don't remember if it was on the back side of the wheel or the outside when I had the plastic insert removed and the wheel off the axle. May be something to look for and set wheels accordingly.

You may have to remove a wheel from an axle to properly quarter it. The wheel will sit on the axle only two ways, 0 or 180 degrees out. It's not very hard to do. The middle and front wheel sets just lift out of the loco when the rods are removed. from the rear side of a wheel, push out the plastic insert with a small screwdriver starting at the counter weight and working your way around. You'll see the mounting screw in the center. Remove it and rotate the wheel 180 degrees and replace the screw and insert.  

All drive rods need to be in a straight line and parallel to the ground. And if the drive rod pins on the left wheels are at the 12:00 o'clock position then all three drive rod pins of the wheels on the right should be in either the 3:00 o'clock or 9:00 o'clock position, doesn't matter, just as long as all three are "clocked" the same.

I hope this helps, and keep us informed.

Adam

Trawarr,

All those suggestions are exactly how I would approach the broken connector repair.

But what caught my eye was the drive rod position of the lower left wheel in the photograph.
It appears to be out of position. Could be just moved out of position when you removed the bottom. But, if the drive rods weren't parallel, front to rear, and 90 degrees (quartered) left side to right, they could be binding and not allowing the wheels to rotate.   

Just a thought, hope you get rolling soon!

Adam

Bach-mann,
Could this "project" possibly be a prototype for a future release

Adam

Dr,
That's funny you mention that. (cutting out the rear of the cab)
I'm in the middle of kit bashing an old 4-6-0 I got on ebay for $41.00, shipping included. I just finished cutting out the back of the cab. This loco was #177 Denver & Rio Grand Western with the yellow and black paint job. I cut the rear sides between the two narrow windows all the way up to the bottom arch molding. I used a retractable box cutter with a new blade. I clamped a short 2x4 to a work bench and supported the inside of the cab with it while I slowly scribe with the point of the box cutter over and over until I was able to remove the rear of the cab. Now there's just one narrow window on both sides of the rear of the cab.

One thing to note, before you start cutting, is that you have to remove the windows and they are glued in and are brittle. I removed mine by carefully prying down the sides between the cab and window assembly. Go slow and carefully. I then cut the two inner windows from that assembly to match the cab. I reinstalled the window glazing by just sliding it back into place, no glue needed, it is a tight fit.

I also removed the boiler back head by sliding it up and off. I was really surprised how a little flat red, white and brass paint made the details pop on the back head.   
I'm now in the process of mounting an old version 5 chassis, that I had left over from an Annie chassis swap out. Ill be installing an LED head and back light, Revolution controller and battery power.     

Besides running trains, it's also fun customizing them!

Have fun.

Adam

Dr.
I would not use red Locktite!! maybe just a small spot of blue. You might need to remove that screw again. Red is very hard to to loosen without heat.

The washers I use are just slightly larger in diameter then the screw head. they are brass, but that shouldn't matter what they are made of, you just want the  washer under the head of the screw to push down harder on the plastic bushing that separates the axle from the wheel.
The only reason I use the small brass washers is because I have them and the other reason is because I have converted all my locomotives to battery power and I am not concerned about track power shorts.
You could find some washers on McMaster-Carr's website.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=16476pe

They have all types of materials and sizes. For track power, I would suggest some type of plastic or Nylon. look around.

I hope this helps and enjoy your trains!!

Adam

Hi Dr Who?
Every new chassis I had was tight when I received it but after many hours of use, the wheels seem to loosen from the axles.

The way I remove the plastic inserts from the metal wheels is by pressing or even lightly tapping, with a small punch, the back side of of the plastic insert where the counter weight is until it starts to separate and then gently prying, again from the back side, around the wheel as it separates.

The way I tighten the wheels, after removing the inserts, is to remove the screw holding the wheel to to axle and place a small washer on the screw and reinstall it. It seems the plastic insulator between the wheel and axle deforms and you can't tighten the screw enough to keep the wheel tight to the axle. Be careful if you use a metallic washer! You don't want the metal wheel to make contact to the axle through the screw! If you're running track power you'll have a direct short, and nothing will run if that happens

I hope this helps and enjoy your trains!

Adam

Bearnhardt68,

Looking at the rear of the loco there is a connector to the left of the switch. this connector is connected to the switch and to the "chuff" actuator located at the front driver axle. the switch closes or opens the chuff circuit for chuff sound or no chuff sound.

The connector on the right side of the switch has two wires that are connected to the motor. Because the rear light is an LED it is a diode (light emitting diode) and will only light when the d.c. voltage is flowing in the correct direction. reverse the voltage and the LED wont light up. It's a simple way to make the rear light illuminate when the loco is moving backwards and not illuminate when it's going forwards.

You can use your original tender as before. just make sure you plug the chuff connector, from the tender, to the connector on the left side of the switch.

If you want to install the rear light, here is a link for the LED and resistor.
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_69_623&products_id=4901

You'll have to call Bachmann Service an see if they have just the plug.
Mount the LED in the housing (you'll have to do some drilling and be creative) solder one side of the resistor to one lead of the LED and the other lead of the resistor to one wire on the plug. solder the other lead from the LED to the other wire on the plug and try it in reverse. if it doesn't light, but does light in forward, swap the wires on the plug. you have a fifty/fifty chance on getting it right the first time.
I hope this helps.

Adam

Bearnhardt68,

I think the other plug is for the rear light on the Annie's.
You would have to mount an LED in the rear light housing, with a resistor, and wire it to the other, second, plug on the Annie chassis.
Otherwise everything should work the same as before the chassis swap.

Adam