I just wanted to drop a note to everyone say hello and to let you know that I have sucessfully converted 8 Athearn F-7s , 1 Athearn GP-38, 1 Athearn GP-40 and 2 Athearn SDP-40-2 engines from DC to DCC.  I used the Digitrax DH 163AT DCC decoders.

Your excellent advice and guidance made this possible and I saved a lot of money by doing it myself.

I hope that our on-line discussions were as much help to others as they were to me.  It wasn't hard at all.  Thank you! 

I have never shopped Roundhouse products before and I am looking at some freight cars (in particular 50' boxcar kits [maybe a couple of 40' boxcars] and maybe a caboose or two).  Are they made of plastic or metal?  I tried to find out some information about them on the internet and couldn't find out much of anything except for the fact that the company that bought Roundhouse also bought Athearn.  Are they of comparable quality to Athearn?  Atlas?  Walthers?  Bachmann?  Should I avoid them? 

I am just looking for some advice here.  My engines are Atlas, Athearn and Bachmann.  My rolling stock (freight) is Athearn, Branchline, Walthers or Atlas.

Thank you for your response.

As I have been building my layout, it has been a while since I got on this board...so I extend a belated Merry Xmas and Happy New Year to everyone.  The layout is pretty large with a lot of scenery...a Northern California industrial park is the setting with oil refinery complex (tank farm, natural gas loading facility and truck loading facility), fire house, rail yard, construction equipment rental company, truck-rail terminal, station, bus stand, gas station, wharehouse and cement plant.  I plan to take pics and post them soon.

I have had no problem installing my Digitrax 165AO DCC decoders in my Atlas engines...piece of cake!

I had set the Athearns aside until now so I tried to install 1 of my DH163AT decoders in an new Athearn RTR F-7.  I checked to see if it ran before I started.  This is what I did:

1.  I got the shell and weight off and took the engine out.  I used double electrical tape over the shiny copper part on the frame under the engine.  If I had put electrical tape under the entire bottom of the motor, it would have blocked the four holes where the plastic motor mounts plug in to re-seat the motor.  I replaced the 4 mounting screws and the original motor mounts with the screw holes with the plastic motor mounts (which do not use screws) that came with the decoder.

Question - Did I properly isolate the motor?

2.  I plugged in the decoder to the harness.

3.  I got the top and bottom motor clips off (and kept the springs in) and replaced them with the motor clips (attached to the gray wire on the bottom and the orange wire on the top). 

4.  I re-seated the engine, taking care to re-align the drive system.

5.  I plugged in the red wire to the front and rear truck posts.

THAT WAS THE EASY PART.  AFTER THAT THE PROBLEM BEGAN...

6.  The instructions say that the black wire should be clipped to the headlight post at the front of the frame but it doesn't say how to do this and I have no clue!  What do I do?  At present, the black wire is not hooked up.

7.  The instructions show the violet (F-2) wire and the green (F-1) wire, but don't say anything about where they go.  Are they supposed to be hooked up?  How?

8.  Do I leave the headlight in?  Do I take it out (including the clip)?

9.  What do I do with the yellow, white and blue wires?  I am leaning toward not hooking up any lights.  The Athearn F-7s have no rear light anyway.

10.  I put the engine on the track and while the headlight lit up, nothing else happened.  When I tried to program it, the light went off and then came back on after I had completed the programming process.  The engine does not run.

Question:  Have I ruined it or is my work just incomplete?  I need someone to walk me through this. 

Help!

(1) Are Athearn "Blue Box F-7s DCC ready?

(2) In an earlier discussion (3/10/08), it was suggested that I use the Digitrax DH163AT (with the top and bottom clips) decoder.  I bought 4 Digitrax DH163AT decoders.  Is this advice the same for both the older Athearn diesels and the "Blue Box" Athearn diesels?  If not, then I will use these in just the older Athearn diesels.

(3) In that same discussion, I was cautioned I need to isolate the motor (with paper or electrical tape).   Is this advice the same for both the older Athearn diesels and the "Blue Box" Athearn diesels?  In Athearn's "exploded" drawing for F-7A diesels, there are motor mount pads.

(4)  In that same discussion, I was cautioned that the clips hold the motor together and hold the brushes and springs in place...and to be careful in pulling them off or be prepared to so some searching.  Is this advice the same for both the older Athearn diesels and the "Blue Box" Athearn diesels?  The reason that I ask this question is that when I examined Athearn's "exploded" F-7A drawing for a "Blue Box" F-7A, I didn't see brushes and springs anywhere in the drawing...the engine uses a "worm drive and motor mount screws hold the engine in place.

(5) Is the Digitrax DH163AT the right decoder for the Athearn "Blue Box" F-7 diesels or for only the older Athearn diesels?  If not, what is the right Digitrax decoder to use with an Athearn F-7 "Blue Box" diesel?

(6) Do I isolate the headlight, too?  I saw in another recent discussion on DCC installations that the headlight mounting bracket is connected to the frame.

I am just trying to be careful here before I do anything.

Does using metal wheelsets on the rolling stock (particularly freight cars) make for quieter operation?  Does it make for smoother operation?  Does it make for cleaner operation?  If so, does this also apply in the case of metal wheels and plastic trucks?  Should the trucks also be replaced?  I am just trying to get some information here.

What are the advantages for using metal wheels as opposed to plastic?

If using metal wheels is recommended, where can I purchase them in bulk?  I have a bunch of cars and most of them are either Athearn or Walters.

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Does anybody have any ideas about what is a good way way to securely mount the 2" square black turnout switch control boxes that control Bachmann #5 and #6 E-Z track turnouts on a layout?  I don't really want to glue them down (and you can't screw them down because of the size of the circuit board)) so I am interested in hearing from anyone about how they handled this issue.  I am considering making some sort of mounting bracket and, so far, that appears to be the only option.

Thank you in advance for your response.

Question: Can I purchase the individual black 2" square control boxes that come with Bachmann #5 or #6 turnouts anywhere?  I am not talking about the track component.  I am only talking about the black switch box that controls the turnout itself.  I have never seen this item listed as an item that can be individually purchased.

If anyone can help me with this, I would really appreciate it because I need 3 or 4 but don't want to spend the money to buy the entire turnout if I don't have to.

Hello Everyone:

It's been a little while since I have posted, but I have been busy working on my DCC layout...with considerable success.  The wiring is completed and the kinks in the track have all been worked out.  I can now run 3 different trains on my DCC layout.  I use several different Atlas, Bachmann and Athearn engines.  The railroads that I am running are Union Pacific, Santa Fe (and BNSF), Southern Pacific and Denver and Rio Grande.

I am beginning to install Digitrax decoders into a few of my Atlas engines. 
I have run into one problem that I am not quite sure how to resolve.  It involves the use of Digitrax DCC decoders.  Here it is:

As per the Digitrax Decoder Selection Chart, I determined that the DH163AO was the right decoder circuit board to order and install in my Atlas GP-38 and GP-40.  Keep in mind that I use the Bachman EZ Command System.  The DH163AO has been replaced by the DH165AO.  No problem there, so that's what I ordered and installed.  Now, these engines run on "3" (this is the default DCC decoder setting for the EZ Command System) as they should when a decoder circuit board has successfully been installed BUT I CAN'T PROGRAM THEM!  They will only work on "3".  I want to be able to program them so they will work on other than the decoder default setting.

The original circuit boards each had a multi-pin plug (8 pins, I believe), but the instructions for the Digitrax decoder said nothing about re-installing the plug into the installed decoder.  The decoder circuit boards have the holes for the multi-pin plug that came with each of the original circuit boards, but I didn't reinstall the plugs because the instructions said nothing about them.

Question: Am I supposed to re-install the plugs into the newly-installed Digitrax decoders?  Or am I missing something else?

I hope that I gave you enough information and that someone has encountered and resolved this problem before.

Thank you all again for all of the great advice you have given me in the past.

This is the problem that I am encountering.  I have Athearn, Bachmann and Atlas diesel engines.   I have found that the rear coupler on the diesel engines is just a little too low (1/8" or less) to line up exactly with the front knuckle couplers on freight and passenger cars.  The freight cars are Athearn and Atlas.  The passenger cars are Athearn and IHC.  I have replaced (and am in the process of replacing) the couplers on the engines and freight cars with Kaydee knuckle couplers.  On a flat surface the couplers lock, but the rear coupler on the engine is so low, that it is only grasping only half the surface area of the front coupler on the passenger or freight car.  The result is that, predictably, on an incline or a slight bump, the engine and car(s) become uncoupled.

What a I have in mind is selecting a few freight and passenger cars where I would (if I can) lower the front Kaydee coupler so that it lines up correctly with the rear coupler on the diesel engine.  The couplers on the freight and passenger cars line up correctly.  The problem appears to be just the couplers between the diesel engine and the first car.

What would be the right Kaydee coupler to use in order to do that?  What else do I need?  How do I accomplish this?  What tools will I need? 

This is a major problem.  Nothing more irritating than having your trains constantly uncoupling.

Does anyone know of any good articles or have good information re: how to
do what I am trying to do?  Or do you have any alternate suggestions?

Does anyone know how to remove the shell from an Atlas SD-24 diesel engine?  I want to install a digitrax dcc decoder.  Do you need to remove screws like you have to do with a bachmann diesel shell?  Is it just supposed to be popped out?

If anyone has had any experience with this, please let me know.

Does anyone know where I can find some good information re: performing routine maintenance on diesel engines (Bachmann, Athearn, Atlas)?

I have some Athearn engines that haven't been out of a box (even though they are virtually brand new) for several years.  It would seem to me that they would need to be lubricated.  Do I need to do anything to the wheels of the engines to improve the electrical contact?  I am cleaning the rails (I have the Bachmann silver nickel rails).

I have no idea what is required and I certainly want to keep my engines in good operating condition.

I just want to be able to do this right.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have 3 Atlas DCC engines with factory-installed DCC decoders (I double-checked that both before and after I bought them) and when I put them on the track, they only operated on "0" and not "3".  I don't seem to be able to reprogram them to work on any other number.  In other words, they are operating as DC engines right now.  I want to be able to program to operate on different number codes other than the analogue code ("0").  Is that possible with Atlas DCC engines?

Any suggestions?

Today was a landmark day for me.  After months of planning, benchwork, some scenery work (much more will be done here, but that is in the future) and wiring, I finally tested my track and it worked!!!

Scenario:  In order to give you a mental picture of the layout (sidings excluded), the layout area is basically a 9' x5' area AND a 9'x6' area in an "L"-shaped layout with 3 separate tracks...the outer and middle track both run in a "L" around the entire layout area and the inner track is an oval approximately 11' in length.  The inner track has 18" radius curves, the middle track has 22" radius curves and the outer track as 26" and 28" radius curves (except for 1 area where the curve is 22".  All 3 tracks are connected by switches that permit trains to switch back and forth between the 3 different tracks.  There is an access hatch and I have access to all areas of the layout, so don't worry about that issue.


Issue # 1:  All of the track is Bachmann EZ-track (silver rails).  THE SWITCHES ARE NON-DCC (this is important and is related to my first question).

I first tested the basic operation of the track with an old DC transformer and one of my old Athearn DC engines and the track and switches all worked fine.

I then went to substitute the Bachmann DCC system (the EZ Command DCC controller/transformer and the 5 amp power booster).  THE FIRST THING THAT I FOUND OUT WAS THAT THERE APPEARED TO BE NOWHERE TO CONNECT THE POWER TO THE NON-DCC SWITCHES.  When I was using the DC transformer, I could connect the wires from the controls for the switches to the DC transformer.


Question #1:  Can I use the Bachmann DCC system AND connect the power for the switches to a DC transformer and use both at the same time?  Otherwise, I have no power for the switches.


Issue #2:  When I had the DCC system connected, I ran one of my old Athearn DC engines and it worked fine.  I also tried out 3 different Bachmann DCC-equipped (factory installed engines).  These 3 Bachmann DCC engines  have never been out the box and are brand new...I acquired them over the last 5 months.  Only 1 of the DCC engines worked at all and I was able to successfully program it.  The other 2 engines showed no signs of life...they do not move at all...do not run when the decoder address is either 0 or 3 (or any other address).  I tried every address on the DCC controller. 

I was even able to run the 1 Bachmann DCC engine that did work (and was able to successfully program) and the Athearn DC engine on the track at the same time.


Question # 2:  Is there any way I can "purge" the decoder for these 2 non-operating Bachmann DCC engines and start over (assuming that they are working at all) without knowing the decoder address?


Issue # 3 concerns the 5 amp power booster.  Will using it make any appreciable difference in the performance of the engines?  There seemed to be no difference whether I used the 5 amp power booster or not with the EZ command DCC controller/transformer.  The Bachmann  DCC engine that ran seemed to be a little slow. 

I want to make sure that I understood the somewhat sparse directions re: connecting the EZ Command transformer/controller and the 5 amp power booster correctly.


Question # 3.  Am I correct that the connection runs from the track terminal to the 5 amp power booster?  I'm asking because when I discarded the 5 amp power booster and just used the EZ Command transformer/controller, everything worked exactly the same.

As you can see, I have made a lot of progress, but I still have a way to go.  I have some other new Bachmann DCC engines that I haven't tried yet (that's for the near future, plus a couple of Atlas DCC engines and I still have to install DCC decoders in my old Athearns). 


I would welcome any advice that anyone can give to me.  Today was a very encouraging day, but these three unresolved questions remain outstanding.

Thank you in advance for your help, as well as all of the help that you have previously given to me.  I wouldn't have gotten this far without you.

Can anyone tell me about how to install Kaydee #508 couplers on International Hobby Corporation (IHC) streamlined passenger cars?  I checked the Kaydee site and they indicated that the #508 coupler (the same one for Rivarossi) was the right one to use.

Before I buy a bunch of #508 couplers or mess anything up, I took a good look at the IHC passenger trucks and what gave me pause was that the IHC trucks have "horn hook" couplers extending out on a shaft from the truck assembly as one part with the horn hook on the end.   The truck and shaft are made of plastic.  Are the horn hook couplers supposed to be cut off? 

Does anyone know of a set of instructions re: what to do to install Kaydee #508 couplers on these type of passenger cars that I can use as a reference?

First of all, I would like to thank all who have responded to my various inquires on the Bachmann Message Board.  I have always received either the correct answer or one that worked for me.  This is an invaluable resource for model raildroaders who need answers to the questions that many of you have already answered, so a big "Thank You" to all.

I have several Bachmann DCC engines and I want to convert my 10 or so Athearn engines (these are the olders ones) to DCC (no sound) as well.  Several of the Athearns are F-7s.  Because it is fairly expensive to convert that many engines to DCC, I would like to learn how to do it myslf.  Is there a realy good set of instructions re: how to do this and what would be the best type(s)of decoder to use?  Where can I find this information?

I hope that it OK to ask this question on Bachmann's site.

Finally, I have heard much talk about the need to "isolate" the engine.  What exactly does that mean?

This may sound like a stupid question, but how does the shell come off of a Bachmann F-9A or a Bachmann FT-A Unit?  I saw the two screws holding the fuel tank on and I took that off, but the shell still didn't come off.  The diagram that comes with the unit isn't particularly helpful. 

I don't want to break the shell, so I thought that I would ask first from anyone who had some experience.

What kind of weights are there or HO scale flat cars (Athearn, Bachmann)?  Who makes them and where can I find them?

If somebody doesn't make weights specially designed for flat cars, does anyone have any idea what to use instead?  Will metal trucks and wheels help?  Flat cars seem to be the one category of freight car that derails the most.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Are the shells of the Bachmann F-7A, F-9A and FT-A diesel locomotives interchangeable?  In other words, I have a Bachmann F-9A Union Pacific shell (which is for a non-DCC unit) and want to know will it fit on either a Bachmann DCC-equipped F-7 or FT-A chassis?

What about Athearn F-7A, F-9A and FTA shells?  Can they fit on a Bachmann F-7A or FT-A  chassis?  Has anyone tried this?

I am considering purchasing the item #11803 (DRG&W EMD-FT-B unit) in order to convert it to DCC.  I know that this is a DC only unit. 

I already have the DCC-EQUIPPED DRG&W EMD-FT-A unit). 

My questions are: (1) is the EMD-FT-B unit DCC-READY?  (2) If so, what Bachmann decoder should I use to convert it to DCC?

Can magnetic couplers be used with passenger cars built by International Hobby Corporation?  I believe that they are also called "knuckle couplers."

I noticed that the couplers with the IHC cars are similar to the old Ahearn style couplers, but they have a very long neck to allow for clearance on turns.  I have several Bachman and Ahearn diesel locomotives (F-3 or F-7 A and AB units that I put Bachman magnetic couplers on) with the magnetic couplers.  Can the couplers on the IHC passenger cars be replaced and with what?  Or do I have to go back to the old Ahearn couplers and put them on the Bachman and Ahearn diesel locomotives?