I have 2 E-Z track turnouts that are giving me a problem.One is a left turnout and the other a right. When the locomotives are operating to go straight as opposed to entering the turnout, they derail on the front trucks. This happens every time. I have Atlas & Athearn diesels. When the engines go the other way they go through the switch fine. Any suggestions? I have spent hours and can't seem to find the cause.At first I thought the air hoses were interfering,but this does not appear to be the case.Thanks. 

I am planning a new layout that will have inclines. I want to use the pre-made risers and inclines made by Woodland Scenics. Can you use EZ Track on such material, and if so how do you adhere it?

I appreciate all the help to date. I do have a question about DCC decoders. I have three Athearn locos that are DCC ready. I take it I need to add a decoder. So, does that mean an 8 pin plug in, or the Decoder with wiring harness? Thanks

Just a follow up: I believe DCC is the way to go. With that in mind it appears from what I have read each engine has its own decoder. Where do you purchase these? Next, it also looks like in addition to the basis unit you also need a hand held controller to put in the commands. Is this correct? Next, what recommendations would you have for a small operation that would have 4 locomotives?

It was also mentioned that you would have to isolate the two concentric circles with crossovers. Is this where you would have to use plastic rail joiners?

I am thankful for this forum and everyone's understanding as I am a rookie. Thanks for all your help.

Joe, or anyone: If I would go to a DCC set up, do I get wiring assistance say if I bought the Bachmann E-z controller? I am guessing that it is the basic system for E-Z track system. I am not thinking of anything approaching 10 Loco, but if going DCC will simplify wiring I am leaning to it. Thanks.

Joe, Thanks for your in depth response, and I apologize for not getting back sooner. I have a dual controller that will operate 2 cabs. All I want is 2 locomotives. The layout is 4 x9. You spoke of insulating at the crossovers. How is this done? I have two crossovers, one on each side of the loops. I am going to guess that at some place at or near each crossover I will use an insulated plastic rail joiner, and if so does it make a difference which rail is selected? Once done will this still allow trains to crossover to the opposite loop, or will they come to a halt on the crossover, and if so how is that remedied? Thanks

Help!! I am not an electrician, but I am having wiring problems. I have 2 concentric circles joined by 2 crossovers, Bachmann #44575 &76. I am also using 9" gapped power sections.Bachmann#44597. In the inner circle I have  2 turnout sidings. I want to have the sidings powered at will; I want to operate 2 trains independently. I looked at the Atlas wiring book, fig4-13, but it is no help. How can I SIMPLY wire this thing. I am not a full time hobbyist. This train set will not remain up all year, so I want simple wiring. Thanks.

I recently purchased the gapped E-z Track,#44597.I want to use it for control blocks, and sidings with locomotives that are parked. Here are my questions:

1. The power plug is under the track bed. Where can I get the plugs to hook up the power?
2. There are two levers on the power plug. To use this for a turn out how do I position the levers?
3. To use this as a control block, in what position do I want the levers?

I experimented using power using plugs I had, but on the main line if I had both levers open once the engine got to that spot it stopped. I want to use selector switches to be able to shut power off to a section when needed if bringing a train out.

I am new at this, so I apologize if this sounds stupid.

Back Man,In reading the instructions for the above crossovers, on a very small paper along with the directions is a note on polarity for the frogs, and a diagram showing a pair of needle nose pliers lifting some wires. I see the two sets of red & black wires, but what do you do with them? There are no instructions.
Next,  I am having problems with joining track using E-Z track. There will be places where one rail will be slightly higher for 2-3 lengths, then they will be smooth. What could be the cause, and what would be the cure? Thanks

In reviewing Bachmann Track Products, #44597 is a 9" Terminal with insulated gap. My question is, generally you gap with an insulated plastic rail joiner. Is this section of track have the plastic rail joiner built in so to speak so it is obvious to see upon examination. I ask this as I am a novice, and know that in controlling track sections you need gaped segments, and this item would work well for me. Thanks, Legaleaglerail

The more I read as a novice the more questions I have. First, what is the difference between a wye and a turnout? Next, do you need an insulated frog for a DC operation, and if so will that appear on the box that the frog is insulated? Thanks

In using E-Z Track how do you wire blocks? For example, if you were to have 2 concentric circles with crossovers and turnouts, how would you wire and control each block? I understand the concept with flex track, but not the E-z track.

What is the reputation of Master something as an engine maker? I am not sure of the name, but saw MSTR. Compare to Atlas/Athearn

I am a novice . I am planning a small 4x8 layout with 2 concentric circles with crossovers. I am going to use 22 &  18 curve. Can I use an Athearn SD50 unit with these curves? Do I use 3/4 or 1/2 inch plywood. I am going to use EZ connect track, so do I need any sound insulation for the track like cork?