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Messages - ajp3751

#16
HO / Re: USRA 0-6-0 Steam Loco
September 15, 2008, 04:29:21 PM
I have one of these from six years ago (2-6-2, but really the same engine if you look at them). From what I remember, I ran the engine for a while to heat up the element that creats the smoke. Then I put one a few drops in there, four seems a little much for a cold start. It depends on the fluid you use, but try with smaller amounts, and as bob said, over use will leave behind some residue that you will have to clean off of your tracks. Don't use your smoke unit too long when you use it because it is housed in plastic which might melt when over heated.
#17
HO / Re: Southern Pacific 2-6-0 M6
September 12, 2008, 04:18:31 PM
This size model is in high demand. I model shortline frieght and I need smaller frieght locos. I have a 2-8-0 and this 2-6-0 would be a great addition. I notice that the USRA is the model in current circulation, but a spectrum model that resembles 1785 would be an excellent addition to the spectrum line.
#18
HO / Re: Bachmann srevice and durability???
September 06, 2008, 09:22:10 PM
The service department is good at replacement if you talk to a human.

If you are looking for a better quality piece, try the spectrum products by bachmann. They are a better quality and have higher detail. For this you will have to pay a little more than the standard though.
#19
HO / Re: Graphite paints
September 06, 2008, 09:18:09 PM
Thanks for the advice on color. The next question is to tape off the other part and use a air painter, or to just brush it on?
#20
HO / Re: 2-6-2 prairie
September 06, 2008, 09:15:38 PM
The coupler on the front is just a dummy coupler. Some dummys are large enough to connect to cars with some force, but this one is too small for even that. There might be a way to add a coupler box in the pilot, but I am not sure. And yes, bachmann's model is the usra with added wheels and timing rods if anyone else noticed.
#21
HO / Graphite paints
September 05, 2008, 07:47:21 PM
Last year I purchased a spectrum 2-8-0 (best steam loco purchase ever), but the beautiful quality of the engine reminded me of the lower quality of my older IHC models. On the spectrum (AT&SF 2526) the firebox, smokebox, and rods are painted in a graphite paint. I would like to paint my other models with the same color (if available) or a similar graphite to cover the hideous fake chrome look.

Would testors offer a paint like this or any other modeling paint company?
#22
They did notice it had a very good scale speed, slow and fast. I personally enjoyed the history lesson there. I don't know much about Berkshires.

Question for those that own these fine models, are they actually noisey? I don't have one but my other bachmann and spectrum products aren't.
#23
HO / Re: Replacement Hogwarts Tender
August 24, 2008, 10:22:28 AM
Bachmann produces british, german, and chinese trains as well as american. Try going to bachmann UK to see if one of those tenders comes close to yours.
http://www.bachmann.co.uk/
#24
HO / Re: DCC to DC conversion
August 23, 2008, 08:53:16 AM
The DCC spectrum 2-8-0 runs just fine on DC without removal of the decoder.
#25
HO / Re: 2-6-2 prairie
August 22, 2008, 03:58:02 PM
I have the NYC prarie from about six years ago. The rods broke the cylinder and the smoke unit got too hot and melted back the stack. I have it in a box ready to go back to bachmann whenever I have the time to do so.

The newer ones have increased in quality and they run smoother than the older ones. Don't expect to pull really long trains with it. It is a nice small engine that isn't all that expensive. I would recomend not using the smoke unit as it is a mess to clean up after and it gets hot for the plastic. It is up to you, but I wouldn't use ithe smoke again.
#26
HO / Re: Using feeders with Bachmann Digital Commander
August 20, 2008, 07:06:11 PM
The number of TRs used depends on the layout and how you want to wire it. You probably want to have one on each loop and maybe one in the yard. I looked at the layout plan for Grand Valley and it seems there aren't many straight track areas for a TR so you may need curved TRs. You are using DCC so you probably won't be wiring in blocks, but if you are, you will want a power source in each block. If you are handy with wiring and electrical work, you can just cut and strip the wires and solder them directly to the track if a rerailer won't fit. For advanced wiring there are some books like the one from atlas, but it seems you are good to go with what Jim said.
#27
HO / Re: couplers
August 20, 2008, 04:22:55 PM
I ordered a set of IHC coaches more than two years ago and I wans't pleased with the results. They do run on 18"radius curves but they lack in weight and some detail which have already been discussed here.

They travel on 18" curves because of the way the coupler is mounted. There is a long coupler shank connected to the truck on these cars. This allows the coupler to move with the truck and not the car body. Long car bodies swing out on tight radii so body couplers wouldn't work for these cars on 18" track. Wider radii it will work and does look better. If you notice when you run your coaches on curves, they have a large overhang (which can be avoided using wider curves). Look at the couplers of two connected coaches on these cars. The NMRA coupling goes almost to the edge of the car to keep coupled. It is hard to have long cars coupled on short radius track.

I too started with power lock track years ago because that is what came with my first sets. I would recomend switching to EZ track as well if you have the finances to do so. As well as more EZtrack pieces available (wider radii, crossigns...) , Power lock track is connected (electrically) by copper contacts which can loose springyness and cause a bad connecting as track ages. EZtrack is connected by rail joiners which is a definate electrical connection. I have not purchased EZ track myself, but I played with it in a hobby store and liked what I saw. I am not going to buy it though because I am hoping to go to a cork roadbed and flextrack once I can get my layout built.
#28
HO / Re: DCC for Life Like Proto 2000 SD9
August 19, 2008, 03:53:43 PM
To take off the shells you need to remove the coupler boxes and remove the fuel tank. The fuel tank is just held on by a sticky membrane so it just pulls off. There are two screws under the tank, they hold on the shell. After you take those off, it should come off the frame with little effort.

I don't have a SD9 but I do have four other proto 2000 diesels (2xGP30, 2xGP9) before the walthers buy out. All of mine are DCC ready from what I see and what I have learned from an earlier post. It should have a circuit board on top of the frame once you remove the shell. A decoder can be placed in there, but that is as far as I know. I haven't converted ny units yet.
#29
HO / Re: Train will not run
August 16, 2008, 03:40:59 PM
There are a bunch of starter sets available. Bachmann makes many that are available on this website. Price depends on DCC and size. Micro mark has a deal right now for the bachmann track pack, DCC starter and engine and cars for just under $200.00. Bachmann has several basic set as well as the acela and some steam engine freight and passenger sets. Athearn and Walthers have decent starter sets as well.

You don't have to buy a set if you know what you need. If there is something you want you can order track and power pack from bachmann and order engine and rolling stock from various places as well as your local hobby shop. Have fun in the hobby with your son.
#30
HO / Re: couplers
August 13, 2008, 07:20:57 PM
Lead is only poisonous if ingested. The point was the it was free and since it is a more dense metal, you would in theory need only a little bit per car.