I have repaired 2 split collars with super glue and now another collar split. Read thru prior messages and thought I would check with the group and find out if anybody has used a repair shop other than Bachmann to fix this ongoing problem. I have less than 3 hours running time on this loco and although I like it, I am getting frustrated. The reason I am asking about a non-Bachmann repair is the comments about their response to this problem on a few threads as well as replacing the bad parts with the same defective ones hoping for different results seems counterproductive.

Bob Miller

I have a 28 Ton Two-Truck Climax (#28605) with what looks like a stripped gear on the rear drive shaft. When the loco gets to a curve the drive shaft spins but the wheels do not turn. Could a drop of glue fix this problem or will I just create more problems? I am not adverse to sending it in for repairs, just thought a little glue might get it working again.

Bob Miller

This is the Spectrum 16948. It is new out of the box. The motor gear (brass?) spin's but does not fully engage the large plastic drive gear.  In fact it just spins around most of the time. If I work it by hand it seems to engage just fine. Tightened all the body and motor mount screws, added extra weight and even held down the motor w/my finger - no real change. Everything looks O.K. and the plastic drive gear does not seemed stripped.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Bob Miller

I'm a little embarrassed on this one. The problem was dirty track, both my test and layout track. I am using the Ballast vehicle chassis as a base for a little fantasy car on my On30 layout. Even though all my On30 loco's are DCC w/sound, they run fine and the sound is consistent. The HO car could not get good contact - must be the big wheel sets on the On30. Cleaned the track w/acetone and the car works fine now.     

Bought a slightly used Spectrum On30 2-6-0 Santa Express to try out a sound decoder install. Have a Digitrax SHD164D to insert. Got the shell off along w/a hand full of plastic parts. My questions are:

1. Any special tricks to stripping the wire (the gap in my teeth is too big)?
   Apparently not, using the gap in my teeth worked fine.
2. I plan on using a liquid insulation instead of shrink tube - any known problems?
   Seems to work O.K.
3. I have a soldering gun - seems too big for this job. Any recommendations on what to use on the small wires?  
   Used low melt solder paste with my 150 watt gun - no problems

Will test it tonight ....
p.s. - took off the cab and put the speaker in the top and the decoder in front of the boiler and put the cab back on the loco shell.
        a little tight but it fit.  Seems like I solved my problems w/o expert guidance. Who knew!!!

Bob Miller

I'm kinda new and a steam dcc guy. Can I assume that an EMD FT-B w/dcc on board is really a diesel loco w/o the loco shell?

I am new (10 mo. into model RR) and building my 1st On30 layout. It will be a logging layout ( surprise, surprise) and I am considering a Shay or Climax w/DDC & sound. My questions are:

1. Will the Climax take the same radius curves as the Shay?

2. Having read through the discussions on the above 2 loco's, would I be better off buying a brass import? I am not that handy or knowledgeable on the detail of the various problem fixes under discussion. In fact, I hardly understood half of what was being said!

Your expert advise on this matter will be deeply appreciated...

Would I be correct that an O scale car could be an On30 if I replaced the wheels w/HO wheel sets?

Even though my On30 loco runs on my HO layout (no very far of course), I assume that my new layout should use O scale stuff like bridges to look more realistic. In other words, I could increase the distance of the railing on my HO trestle bridge and it would work on my On30 loco but am guessing that it's not really the right size.

You may assume that I am new to model railroading, have never seen a layout except in a magazine and on the internet and live in no place USA.
You would be correct....

I am a new HO rail guy but have just purchased an On30 Baldwin 2-8-0 Consolidation w/DCC. I run on a NCE Power Cab rated at 2 amps. My question is: can I test the On30 on my layout or will the big loco pull more than 2 amps and hurt my Power Cab?

BTW, this new Baldwin makes my HO loco's look like toys. I wonder now that the kids are gone, if my wife really needs the spare bedroom!!!

Last November, before I had a loco or a layout, I asked the "Bach Man' about small layouts. Got some great advise and built my first layout ( 30" x 96") w/ 13 1/2" radius curves. I run a 0-6-0t w/dcc and sound and a 0-6-0 goat switcher both by Mantua. That worked so well that I figured that if 6 wheels were O.K., 8 wheels would be better. I ordered a 4-4-0 modern American/DCC by Spectrum. This only works if you take off the front 4 pilot wheels but the loco looks ridiculous going around curves. In all fairness, a gentleman named 'Sid'  wrote that loco's with pilot trucks would not work on a small layout like mine but I was too new and did not know what "pilot Trucks" were and didn't ask. (Didn't want to sound stupid). I have the 4-4-0 sitting on a shelf to remind me not to try that trick again. Hope this helps some of you new guys with your projects.

Just a thought, would a small 'Shay' take a 13 1/2 radius curve?

Is there a place (on the WEB) where one can trade or buy items from other model RR people. Not the big auction places (ie. ebay) but just a site for posting stuff for trade or a want list. For example, I have been looking for a tender for my 0-6-0 switcher. Nothing special, just a little tender. Can't find one. Also, want to trade a new Spectrum 'ho' 4-4-0 dcc loco for something.
Emailed my NMRA Division chair and my region Member Aid Chair for some direction ... no help. I have been a model RR guy for about 5 months now but I thought some of you old timers could provide some direction.

After 2 days of reading thru 9 pages of posts on radius curves ( we work at 48kb out here ) I still need some direction.  I have read that although an     0-4-0,0-6-0, 4-4-0 or a 2-6-0 will work on a 15" radius it is possable to run them on much smaller curves.  I have not been able to verify this with anybody who has tried this. Specifically, will any of the above loco's run on a 12" radius curve, assuming the loco is DCC w/sound equiped.