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Messages - tuba1st

#1
HO / Re: Insulated switches shorting on DCC
January 28, 2010, 07:01:28 PM
After a good skull session with my local hobby guy we decided to cut a small space in the track leading to the frog with a dremel tool.  It worked, all steam engines are making the trip without shorts.
#2
HO / Re: Insulated switches shorting on DCC
January 23, 2010, 05:22:23 PM
I really appreciate the information given so far.  I spent more time on the layout last night and discovered my longer steam engines, 4-8-4, 2-10-2 coming out of a 22" curve before the switch causes the engine to be off center as it is entering the switch.  Its a little tough to fit myself down to the level to watch as the engines enter the switch but looking from above the engines are not centered.  I am going to try changing a 9" straight before one switch and see if that cures the problem. 
Any thoughts?

#3
HO / Re: Insulated switches shorting on DCC
January 21, 2010, 07:39:39 PM
The switches are quite old as they were given to me by a fellow musician who installed new switches on his layout.  I would guess they are at least 30-40 years old.  There is a plastic portion at the frog.  I do have to work on controlling the switches as the orginal housing for the switches interferes with the cow catcher on three big steam engines causing them to either stop or de-rail.  I'll try the polish.
#4
HO / Insulated switches shorting on DCC
January 20, 2010, 11:21:04 AM
I have come across a problem that is difficult to figure.  I have three switches in line on the main line.  These switches are older Atlas and they are all insulated.  With DC power and DC engines they are fine.  With DCC and DCC steam they short out as soon as the front truck comes into contact with the main line portion even before it reaches the frog.  The front truck does not short the track out in normal movement anywhere but at the switch it creates a short.  I was told to place a plastic rail joiner on one side of the main and on the curved portion of the switch to avoid this problem.  It didn't work as the engine does not even make it to the frog before it shorts.  Any suggestions or should I just replace these switches which will be expensive since there are ten switches off the main line.  I should note that I removed the electrical control from the switches as they were catching the 4-8-4 Daylight and my 2-10-2 by being raised too high.
#5
General Discussion / Re: Securing track
April 08, 2009, 07:21:04 PM
Craig,
     What do you mean by weight?  I can picture the push pins but not the weights.

Tom
#6
General Discussion / Securing track
April 08, 2009, 07:40:05 AM
Hi gang,
     I have read several posts as well as magazines regarding securing track to the board for the layout.  I have tried using small brads pushed into the holes that are on the plastic ties and have found that they sometimes cause a derailment if they are pushed flush with the ties.  I was wondering about using a stapler and securing the track on the outside where I can pop the staple if needed and not mess up the interior area of the track.  Any suggestions?
#7
General Discussion / Re: DL&W information
April 02, 2009, 11:43:35 AM
I appreciate those sites, but unfortunately they do not have the information that I am looking for.  My search is more along the lines of employees of the railroad.  I have one newspaper clipping from the 1860s for my great grandfather but can't find anything else.

Tom
#8
General Discussion / DL&W information
March 31, 2009, 08:54:51 PM
Is there anyone who knows where I can really accurate information about the DL&W?  My ancestors worked for that railroad in capacities and I would love to find out more about the railroad.

Tom
#9
General Discussion / Re: 4-8-4 sound
March 31, 2009, 08:52:21 PM
That medium steam is just the ticket.

Tom
#10
Jack,
     Thanks.  I would like to know the manufactor for the smoke.

Tom
#11
General Discussion / 4-8-4 sound
March 29, 2009, 10:17:17 PM
I have a new class J 4-8-4 Norfolk and Western DCC ready.  It is very impressive and I would like to add the sound chip.  Rather then go to the hobby store for installation I believe I can do it myself since I have built my own amateur radio and computers.  Where can I find that chip?
#12
I have tried the mineral oil and it does work right out of the bottle.  Not as much smoke but enough for the grand kids, they like it keep asking for that one engine each time they come over.  Thanks for the advise.
#13
Bob, I checked the track with a gauge and also the wheels sitting on a glass table.  Everything checked out.  It appears that the truck is really light and the spring that is between the chassis and the truck is also quite light.  It looks like some weight is needed to hold the truck down.  That is the next step.
Tom
#14
Thanks, I'll give a try after my daughter comes home and takes care of her daughter.
#15
I'll have to acquire a new gauge.  The old on disappeared when we moved.  At slow speed all of the engines handle the switches fine.  Its just at these two 22" curves.  I tried replacing the sections where the derail happens and the problem still exists.  The derail occurs after the connection between the tracks.