Ok. I have a few questions about things dealing with a Digitrax DCC Zephyr System that I'm going to be getting in the near future, then one with a Spectrum GP-30 that I bought.
DCC:
1) Does the Zephyr controller have sound? I think I saw a bell button on one.
2) When you turn the throttle on one engine, then switch to another engine, if you leave the throttle at the same spot, will the new loco go that speed instantly?
3) Will Kadee uncoupling magnets work with the Zephyr?
GP-30
1) What kind of Kadee couplers should I put on it to make it look like the coupler isn't a billion feet long? I put a #156 and it looked like it was sticking out too far.
Thanks in advance! ;)
~Justin
The bell icon, like the whistle icon, is to tell you which button to push WHEN you have sound installed. You need a sound decoder for the system to work.
Why would you want a locomotive to go from 0 to 30 in less than a second? IWhich throttle are you using. If you have one with two controls, the one you surrender continues at its speed and you then aquire the other at zero.
I don't use DCC uncouplers, though you can find comments about them here. However, I believe the answer is "yes."
My advice on the DC-30 is to trade it in on a C&O K4. Much nicer loco and it already has the proper size couplers installed.
Gene
(1) The Zephyr controller does not have sound built into it but it can control DCC sound decoders that are installed in locomotives.
(2) Not instantly. You normally have to either touch the throttle or wait for the next speed command to be sent from the Zephyr. Best bet is to to release the first locomotive (<loco> <exit>) then turn the throttle to zero then acquire the second locomotive (<loco> number <loco>.) That way, the second locomotive will not take off like a scalded cat. You also have the option of connecting one or two conventional dc power packs to the Zephyr to give you two or three throttles total if you want to run multiple trains. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can even make your own hand held throttle(s) using just a battery, a pot, a switch and a box to mount them in.
(3) The permanent magnets used to uncouple Kadees will work with any dc or DCC system. The Kadee electromagnetic uncouplers will NOT work directly with the Zephyr as it has no accessory power outputs to power them. You would need a second power source, either ac or dc, around 12 to 16 volts to operate Kadee electromagnetics. This could be a conventional power pack or a wall wart type supply. I do not know of any DCC command station that has auxiliary power outputs for accessories.
Note that Kadee does not make DCC uncouplers but it should be possible to operate their electromagnetic uncouplers via a stationary decoder. The Zephyr can certainly operate stationary decoders.
I am not familiar with your GP-30 locomotive - it is too modern for my layout. But I can make a few general comments. First, I assume you have been to the Kadee website and checked out what lengths they make. If there are none short enough, then you might want to consider moving the mounting point farther back or forward, depending on whether it is a front or rear coupler.
With your concern about couplers, I suspect you do a lot of switching. The Zephyr is great for this as you can either use the throttle or you can leave the throttle set and just use the brake/direction control. the Zephyr is also able to program and operate all the fancy controls built into many new decoders - speed tables, back EMF control, and switch speed options. Digitrax's newest, the DZ125, has all the above and a lot more for a street price around $20. It is also compatible with Digitrax's new add-on sound system, the SoundBug.
Quote from: Jim Banner on March 23, 2008, 03:29:10 PM
(1) The Zephyr controller does not have sound built into it but it can control DCC sound decoders that are installed in locomotives.
(2) Not instantly. You normally have to either touch the throttle or wait for the next speed command to be sent from the Zephyr. Best bet is to to release the first locomotive (<loco> <exit>) then turn the throttle to zero then acquire the second locomotive (<loco> number <loco>.) That way, the second locomotive will not take off like a scalded cat. You also have the option of connecting one or two conventional dc power packs to the Zephyr to give you two or three throttles total if you want to run multiple trains. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can even make your own hand held throttle(s) using just a battery, a pot, a switch and a box to mount them in.
(3) The permanent magnets used to uncouple Kadees will work with any dc or DCC system. The Kadee electromagnetic uncouplers will NOT work directly with the Zephyr as it has no accessory power outputs to power them. You would need a second power source, either ac or dc, around 12 to 16 volts to operate Kadee electromagnetics. This could be a conventional power pack or a wall wart type supply. I do not know of any DCC command station that has auxiliary power outputs for accessories.
Note that Kadee does not make DCC uncouplers but it should be possible to operate their electromagnetic uncouplers via a stationary decoder. The Zephyr can certainly operate stationary decoders.
I am not familiar with your GP-30 locomotive - it is too modern for my layout. But I can make a few general comments. First, I assume you have been to the Kadee website and checked out what lengths they make. If there are none short enough, then you might want to consider moving the mounting point farther back or forward, depending on whether it is a front or rear coupler.
With your concern about couplers, I suspect you do a lot of switching. The Zephyr is great for this as you can either use the throttle or you can leave the throttle set and just use the brake/direction control. the Zephyr is also able to program and operate all the fancy controls built into many new decoders - speed tables, back EMF control, and switch speed options. Digitrax's newest, the DZ125, has all the above and a lot more for a street price around $20. It is also compatible with Digitrax's new add-on sound system, the SoundBug.
First, thank you for all the information. Second, I am only 13, so I'm most likely not handy with a soldering gun... My dad doesn't even let me use a drill! Third, I haven't built the layout I'm going to use the GP-30 and the Zephry control on yet, but I will begin soon. I am a fan of switching, though, so I'm definately going to want uncoupling magnets.
Quote from: SteamGene on March 23, 2008, 08:21:06 AM
The bell icon, like the whistle icon, is to tell you which button to push WHEN you have sound installed. You need a sound decoder for the system to work.
Why would you want a locomotive to go from 0 to 30 in less than a second? IWhich throttle are you using. If you have one with two controls, the one you surrender continues at its speed and you then aquire the other at zero.
I don't use DCC uncouplers, though you can find comments about them here. However, I believe the answer is "yes."
My advice on the DC-30 is to trade it in on a C&O K4. Much nicer loco and it already has the proper size couplers installed.
Gene
Thank you also for your information. Also, it's
GP-30, and, ironically enough, I am modeling the Chessie System, and that includes the B&O and the C&O, but I don't want to trade my GP-30 in. I've already started to paint it, and even though I love steam engines, I want to try a diesel-only layout.
~Justin
Justin, your good spelling, proper use of the English language and logical questions led me to believe you were older. But that does not mean you deserve any less of an answer because you are 13.
Drills can be dangerous. Last year I accidentally drilled the ear ring out of my left ear with one. And I've been using electric drills for over 50 years. Soldering irons, on the other hand, can burn you but rarely do any permanent damage. Perhaps you can convince your father to teach you how to use one, one of these days.
One thing I have learned on this forum is things aren't alway what they seem. I find myself more often checking the profile to see if an age is shown.
Justin, if you are truly 13, then I compliment you on your state of maturity and forward thinking.
Yampa Bob
But don't forget us wild 'bad splelng' kids who have big inappropriate parties with illegal beverages after the Springfield show!
Justin,
My typing error on the GP-30 - and a slip of my proofreading eye to boot. ??? As a retired English teacher, let me compliment you on your command - well done.
I chose the C&O K4 because I saw the Chessie System colors and the mention of Chessie, so I assumed that to be your main interest. The other unit of the Chessie System was the Western Maryland.
I agree that both soldering irons and drills can be dangerous, but so is getting out of bed. Ask your dad to help you if he can.
With soldering, buy or build a stand for the iron first. Never work with one without a stand to put it on. Watch the tip.
Jim - how did you drill out an earring?
GG - Ya be doin' betta, boy. Now am I going to have to come up to the Springfield show in 09 and chaperone you? Do you know if there are still flights into Westover?
Gene
Justin, well done! I would the the cool soldering iron. Uses AA batteries and does a very nice job. Also no burning and much, much safer to use. You can find them at Radio Shack. Be prepared to use a lot of batteries though. Uses an arc much like a welder but none of the dangers. I use one.
Jim, I too am curious about your left ear and it's loss of an ear ring by a runaway drill! 'Twill make an interesting story! lol Stephen
Jim
Ear piercing is normally done with a needle. Or were you trying to clean out the ear wax? You will never live this down. :D :D
To everyone: thanks for commenting on how well I spell! :) Also, thank you for the replies to my question, and to SteamGene--the spelling error is forgiven. Anyway, you are a steam specialist, and I was talking about a diesel...
Anyway, thanks again for the comments, and I really am 13. =)
Edit: Heh, I remember at the Springfield show this year all the 'illegal drink' stands, my friend David pointed them out to me. How convenient! Hehehe...
Ok, back on topic: Will installing a decoder cause a locomotive not to work on DC? Will it make it stall or run bad? I might install some decoders before I get the system so I can just go right in and run it, but I don't want to do it if it won't run on DC also.
~Justin
Justin, the ability of a decoder to sense DC and allow the locomotive to operate that way depends on the decoder. Some do. Some don't.
Gene
Drilling out your ear ring is easy when you have long hair. I usually wear it in a braid under my shirt or jacket when I am working, but sometimes it falls out. This can be bad when when you are bending over, drilling holes in the ends of railroad ties (12" to the foot ones) and the drill bit picks up the end of your braid. Fortunately, the bit was out of the hole I had just drilled. Unfortunately, it was a good quality, all ball bearing drill that coasts a long time. Long enough to winch itself up my braid by winding the latter around the bit. And long enough to rip out my ear ring and almost tear off my ear lobe.
Even worse than having to go to the local Medi-Clinic to get my ear sewn up was having to return to the same clinic exactly one week later and have a brad removed from my wrist when my pneumatic nailer misfired. The surgeon went so far as to suggest I take up a different hobby.
Yes, tools can be dangerous. When I retired from the instrument development shop where I worked, I was the only one of the four of us who still had ten fingers that all worked.
Now I suppose I will have to live down the ear ring incident here too.
Jim
Well, no comment lol
This is sorta on topic. The EZ Command doesn't have a "release loco" function, you just switch with one button push.
Say you have 2 running on different tracks at full throttle. Bring one to complete stop, then with the throttle closed, push the button for the other one. Jim, you can explain what I call "existing state throttle matching" better than me. After a while it just comes natural.
Bob
Ok guys, it's me Justin again with a few more questions. (This is my new account. Don't believe me? Check Styntwin409's signature.)
- How should I attach cork roadbed to a sheet of foam?
- How should I attach the track (code 83, if it helps) the the roadbed?
- When splitting the roadbed, how should i do it? I don't want to rip it because it might destroy it.
- How should I clean up the messy roadbed edges?
Thanks in advance for any replies! :)
~Justin
I use construction glue in a caulking gun to glue roadbed to subroadbed.
For code 83, turn the track over and drill out the pre-drilled holes, then use track nails to hold the track to the cork.
Pull the two pieces gently apart, and then reverse them so the flat edges mate and the slopes are to the outside.
Once you've put ballast over the roadbed any irregularities should be covered.
Gene
White glue (I prefer Weldbond brand) will stick cork roadbed to styrofoam but you will either have to pin it in place (straight dress makers pins) or weight it down with bricks, books etc. until the glue dries. This usually takes overnight. Best bet is to draw the center line of your track on the foam, then split the cork and glue it down so that one straight (not tapered) edge is right on the center line. Next day, you can glue down the other half of the roadbed, butted up against the first piece. This way you never loose your center line. Use a piece of cardboard to spread glue evenly over the bottoms of the pieces of cork, one at a time, and put them in place before the glue starts to dry.
Attach your track to the top of the cork with the same glue. Again use a bit of cardboard to spread glue on a section of cork, then pin down the track until the glue dries. As with the cork, drying usually takes overnight. If you are using sectional track, you may get away with holding it in place with track nails. But if you use flex track, neither the cork nor the foam under it will hold the nails well enough to keep the track in place indefinitely.
Cork roadbed usually splits quite cleanly if you fold it over in the middle where it is already cut most of the way through.
Don't worry about the messy edges. Once your track is down and working perfectly, you will probably want to ballast it, either with commercial ballast or with fine sand. This will cover any roughness, and even fill any gaps in the center. Glue down your ballast by first wetting it with a fine mist of water with a few drops of detergent added. Then drench it with a 50:50 mix of white glue and water. You might want to leave your turnouts unballasted. If you prefer not to ballast, you can trim any irregularities off with a sharp knife.
White, non-water proof glue has the advantage that you can resoak the ballast with water and gently lift the track with a putty knife. With water proof glue, there is no way of recovering your track and reusing it.
I am going to be ballasting, so hopefully that will help the edge. Also, would using Elmer's white glue work? I have enough of that to use due to many school projects. :)
~Justin
Well I couldn't find a place to post my question and ended up here so hope this is OK. I have installed an MRC #001629 sound decoder in my Bachmann Spectrium class J. It works but there are some problems. I'm using Bachmann's EZ Command system and The volume on this engine is higher than I would like. the chuff could be bgetter syncronized with the engine speed and some of the sounds aren't available. Occasionally It whistles or gives one ot the other sounds on it's own. Any ideas?
Walt
You cannot program with the EZ-Command system. However, if you have a friend with a programming track, you should be able to program on it.
How do you like the sound?
Gene
Quote from: Chessie Sys. 3022 on March 30, 2008, 08:57:51 AM
Ok guys, it's me Justin again with a few more questions. (This is my new account. Don't believe me? Check Styntwin409's signature.)
- How should I attach cork roadbed to a sheet of foam?
- How should I attach the track (code 83, if it helps) the the roadbed?
- When splitting the roadbed, how should i do it? I don't want to rip it because it might destroy it.
- How should I clean up the messy roadbed edges?
Thanks in advance for any replies! :)
~Justin
Justin, I've had luck using the following methods:
1. I just completed all my cork and track. I fastened the cork to my 1" foam with white glue. Works like a charm. Tack in place for a few days and presto.
2. I used track nails to keep the track in alignment. A little white caulk that dries clear did the job.
3. My HO cork was pre split. Mostly. Just a quick pull and it seperated no problem.
4. I'm not sure what you mean by the messy roadbed edges. Are you looking at the edge of cork? If so when you ballast the track that will all be covered up.
Hope this helps.
Ok, things are getting clearer now. :)
To put the track nails in, all I'd need to do is push them in with pliers, right? It would seem like the cork and foam would make it easy to do this. Also, how far should I push them in so they don't warp the track? I had this problem on my layout on plywood.
~Justin
Push them so the head rests on the tie - don't let the tie bow in the middle.
Gene
to SteamGene,
I love the sound of the MRC decoder. I was planning to buy an engine with sound that I could use with my DC setup but after being out bid on three on e-bay I bid on the decoder and an EZ comand unit. The money I saved was more than enough to buy a set of Bachmann B&O Sharks (A&B units) with DCC. So I'm very happy. do you know if there is room for sonud in the sharks?
Walt
I seem to be getting lots of good replies, so I might as well keep posting questions here! Thanks so far, guys! Generally, how much would a good decoder for a Spectrum GP-30 be, and where would I put it?
~Justin
Walt,
The only sound I know of that comes from sharks is: "Help! He--" :D
Gene
I just got some 70% isopropyl alcohol to make a 50:50 mixture with water for spraying the ballast with. I got a few questions about that:
1) Should I wait until I get the ballast and the roadbed and track is down before making the 50:50 mixture? Will the mixture separate?
2) Will the spray kill the foam base?
3) Should I mask the tracks when spraying, or should I wipe the rails down when I'm done?
Thanks in advance!
~Justin
dribble the alcohol on with an eye dropper or plastic spoon.
Then make a 50:50 mix of white glue and water, and spray that on, or use a plastic spoon to dribble it on. Don't spray straight down, but spray horizontal to the layout if you decide to spray at all. I find I have better control with a plastic spoon.
Well, GG, I was going to use the ballasting method from the January 2007 Model Railroader issue, which says to spray on the 50:50 mixture of alcohol and water onto the ballast spread between the rails, then let it sit. Then, it says to come back with an eye dropper and put Woodland Scenics cement on it until you can see it between the ballast. The question that I really want answered is if I can leave the 50:50 mixture in the bottle for a long time and if it won't seperate.
~Justin
The water and alcohol solution will not separate, even after a long time, in a sealed bottle.