Owning a few different, both DCC ready, DCC, and DCC with sound Spectrum, and Sound Value locomotives, I've had occasion to add or want to add DCC and / or sound.   Or switch to a different tender type (slightly larger for my Decapod  -  adding a Consolidation tender). 

What would really help would be a set of .PDFs with the engine to tender connections layout for each loco (and variants, such as 2-8-0 with or without DCC and / or sound).  Also including info on headlights and backup lights such as bulb or LED, voltage, size, etc.  The information must be somewhere inside Bachmann, and hopefully the effort to publish it wold't be excessive  -  and a lot of us would really be thankful.))

The back of my Frisco 2-10-0 tender says "23,000 gallons"    in somewhat fuzzy lettering (the pad must have been over-pressured).

Anyone know what it should be?  For comparison, the huge tender on an SP AC-12 cab forward holds 22,000 gallons.

I'm adding  -  or trying to add  -  a sound decoder to a Spectrum Russian 2-10-0.  OK, seems self explanatory  -  mark the truck frames and the tender underframe so I can get the pickups back correctly, then remove the truck screw.

Oops  -  it's a little machine screw, not a sheet metal screw threaded into plastic, meaning there's a bolt inside, and guess what:  there's nothing to restrain the bolt from spinning with the screw. 

OK  -  using a small screwdriver between the truck and bolster I was able to apply enough tension on the screw to finally get the nut off the front truck screw  -  I heard it drop and rattle around inside.  Now for the rear truck.  Uh oh.  No matter how much tension I apply, it just spins and spins and doesn't loosen any more.  I can't say how much the design sense applied to this impresses me.

Any suggestions?  I'm adding  -  or trying to add  -  a sound decoder to a Spectrum Russian 2-10-0.  OK, seems self explanatory  -  mark the truck frames and the tender underframe so I can get the pickups back correctly, then remove the truck screw.

Oops  -  it's a little machine screw, not a sheet metal screw threaded into plastic, meaning there's a bolt inside, and guess what:  there's nothing to restrain the bolt from spinning with the screw. 

OK  -  using a small screwdriver between the truck and bolster I was able to apply enough tension on the screw to finally get the nut off the front truck screw  -  I heard it drop and rattle around inside.  Now for the rear truck.  Uh oh.  No matter how much tension I apply, it just spins and spins and doesn't loosen any more.  I can't say how much the design sense applied to this impresses me.

Any suggestions?