I am looking for an inexpensive way to make tress in autumn colors. I estimate that I will need between 50 and 100 trees to fill in various spots on my layout. Buying pre made trees is too expensive.
Joe,
I make my own trees. The vast majority are made from the Woodland Scenics Armatures that you bend into shape and glue on ground foam. I can make a 7"- 8" tree for about $1. I can make a 2" tree for about 15 cents.
I have made a few trees by hunting down weeds in the woods. Some have sturdy stems that look like tree branches. I let them dry out. Then paint and apply ground foam. This take a lot of time, as I don't get out into nature much.
In total, I have about 400 trees on my layout. Just an opinion, but I think the premade trees don't look any better than a homemade one. Like you said, they are pretty pricey as well.
Regards,
Jonathan
Joe - There have been lots of articles (and books) written on scenery and 'tree making'. I looked through the few model railroad magazines in the house and came across an article in the August 2009 issue of Railroad Model Craftsman entitled Larder Up Scenery Supplies that may be of interest to you.
A better choice (than ordering a back copy of RMC) is Robert Schleicher's book 101 Projects For Your Model Railroad (MBI Publishing Company, 2002). This book contains a wealth of information - beginning with planning a layout through advanced techniques. At an MRSP price of $29.95, it is a great addition to your reference library. Check the Internet for a lower price.
Being a bit lazy, and having very few trees on my mini layouts, I tend to go with ready made trees from Woodland Scenics (among others). Good luck with your 'forest making'.
Ray
Joe -
Sometimes Walthers has trees at very attractive prices. Check their sale brochure (easiest) or their web site (much harder to find what's on sale). Otherwise, roll your own. You can start with pieces of dried weeds or buy ready made armatures. If you use stuff from outside, be sure to bake it long enough (30 min at 200o or so) to kill the flora and fauna. I prefer natural sticks, especially when you figure in price. Then just use ground foam in whatever color you desire. NB: don't use "pure" colors as they come from the bag. Mix in small amounts of other colors and your trees will look more real. Last, try Super Trees. They come as a prefab kit and they are reasonably economical.
-- D
Here are a couple of things to consider. As you drive through the country, notice that you don't really see individual trees except at the tree line. The rest of what you see is the canopy--the tops of trees--and that is what you want to model. Clumps of lichen or poly fiber dusted with ground foam work very well. The foliage can be supported by something as simple as nails, greatly reducing the cost. When thinking about fall colors, remember that tree seeds don't usually travel too far. An acorn might get carried off by a squirrel or a gust of wind might boost a maple seed an extra few yards, but for the most part, trees grow in clumps of their own kind. So don't make your hillside look like a map where no two adjacent states are the same color. Rather, "plant" your trees in groups of the same species.
The oddest material I ever saw for making trees was dyed cotton balls. MR used them on a project railroad years ago.
Old Timer gives great advice!
I use my height as a guide for illusion and distance. Anything on my layout that is over my head (literally, not figuratively), gets polyfiber or clump foliage to represent tree tops. Anything below my height gets armatures, with little trees up top and the big trees at the bottom. Gives the illusion of distance, plus the economy of making less trees to create a forest-like appearance.
My benchwork stands at 48", so it doesn't take much of a mountain to build up over my head.
Regards,
Jonathan
I use scrape wire to make my trees, I just spread the strands apart then twist pairs into branches just like the pre-made type, then I cover them using some of the store bought coverings, to make them look a little more real I spray them with hair spray then sprinkle a slightly lighter color then the base color to simulate new leaves, then respray them to finish.
NM
Posting from my iPhone is no fun...
So many Great replies ;D
I am thinking of going with Armatures for the outer trees and the using nails and clump foliage in between tightly packed to give a dense forest like appearance (And hide the nails).
One other question what adhesive do you use to attach the foilage to the armatures?
Woodland Scenics recommends a product of theirs called Hob-E Tac.
Joe,
I have tried several methods. My personal choice is to stick the end of the tree branch into a tube of testor's model cement (ca?). Then push a piece of clump foliage onto the branch. Let dry. Beware of spider webs and don't let the shiny glue show.
For the new leaf look, I have done the hair spray and lighter foam method (cough, cough), per NM's suggestion.
Also, to get rid of the shiny tree trunk look... two choices: you can dullcote the armatures prior to attaching ground foam. I find that pricey and smelly(takes allot of dullcote). The other way is to brush paint various shades of gray using Apple Barrel acrylic paint (real cheap at Walmart). Painting takes longer. But it's wicked cheap, and doesn't reek havoc with your lungs.
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: jonathan on June 25, 2010, 12:52:15 PM
Joe,
I have tried several methods. My personal choice is to stick the end of the tree branch into a tube of testor's model cement (ca?). Then push a piece of clump foliage onto the branch. Let dry. Beware of spider webs and don't let the shiny glue show.
For the new leaf look, I have done the hair spray and lighter foam method (cough, cough), per NM's suggestion.
Also, to get rid of the shiny tree trunk look... two choices: you can dullcote the armatures prior to attaching ground foam. I find that pricey and smelly(takes allot of dullcote). The other way is to brush paint various shades of gray using Apple Barrel acrylic paint (real cheap at Walmart). Painting takes longer. But it's wicked cheap, and doesn't reek havoc with your lungs.
Regards,
Jonathan
Cool ideas Testors cement can form spider webs I have run into that before. I'll look into the Apple Barrel acrylic next time I'm in NJ as there are no Walmarts anywhere in New York City.
Thanks,
Joe
One more tip I like to point out, on trees that are placed where you can see the trunk, don't forget the part of the tree most people forget, the fallen leaves under the tree, most turn various shades of brown.
NM
Good one. I had never thought of that.
Going on to my lengthy 'to do' list.
Joe, here's a shot of a hill on my layout. The trees on top are clump foliage, then 2" trees, and bigger and bigger, etc. Took this shot before I added the highlights to the tree tops. Need to update my photoalbum.
Just to give to an idea... FWIW.
Regards,
Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN0774.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN0768.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN0769.jpg)
Looks great Jonathan! Thanks for sharing your pics!
Thanks, and you're welcome. :)
I like to share... except my favorite locomotives.
Quote from: jonathan on June 25, 2010, 10:28:33 PMI like to share... except my favorite locomotives.
Are you sure you don't want to reconsider?
Beautiful work jonathan!! Your use of the vertical space (especially) is superb!
It's one thing to make a few trees or some 'shrubbery.' The integration of that 'greenery' into the total scene is really where the art comes to reality.
Happy RRing,
Jerry
Joe -
I like to sprinkle some lighter shades of ground foam on the undersides of trees which are right up front because the undersides of leaves are generally lighter in color then the tops of leaves.
-- D