Welcome to the model RRing hobby!

As to your proposed layout, I believe you would be creating a nightmare. I count at least 14 turnouts in your proposed 2'x8' space!

Prototype railroads serving a group of industries will usually have a single runaround that is long enough to accommodate the longest cut of cars going to a single industry. The crew (actually the conductor) works out which end of a cut the engine needs to be on, and arranges switching on the runaround track so the cars to be dropped at the appropriate place without needing a runaround at each industry. That planning and operation is a great deal of the fun in switching layouts and switching puzzles.

If each industry had to have 3 or 4 turnouts as you have sketched, the costs in land, trackage and operations would be huge.

Take a look at some plan books and on-line resources. 101 Railroads You Can Build is one of my favorites.

Hope this helps,

Jerry

I hope you are not really putting AC power on your track!

I assume you mean you are running DCC, which is DC power with a high frequency digital signal impressed on it to provide the commands to the decoders. Nothing AC in any of this. And, definitely no rectifiers required.

Maybe the obvious, but do you have smoke fluid in the smoker? Is it making heat? Running the smoke element without fluid can cause it to burnout. In that case, you would still measure voltage at the smoker connections, but no resistance to provide the necessary heat.

Hope this is of a little help.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Not trying to nitpick, but it would be impossible to produce a prototypical model of a D&RGW engine in 0n30. The D&RGW was a 36" gauge railroad, while 0n30 is a model of 30" gauge railroads. If you want to model the D&RGW in 0-scale, why wouldn't you choose the (correct gauge) On3? Lots of prototype stuff available there.

BTW, I do have a few 0n30 models and a small layout under construction. My models follow the few 30" gauge prototypes and an imaginary 30" gauge construction railroad. Not one model of a Southern Pacific GP9!

Google "O-scale Figures." This will produce hundreds of results

Just one example is this unpainted set at MicroMark:

Micro:http://www.micromark.com/O-Scale-Figures-Unpainted-Set-of-36,9013.html?sc=WGB&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=GoogleBase&gclid=CI_2rI-y1sYCFZFafgod2D0AsQ

IMHO, Excellent value for the money.

I recently saw a post asking for a figure that would fit in the LS Davenport without modifications. That is pretty unlikely. The problem is that cast or molded scale figures (in any scale) are relatively rigid and (almost always) are clothed. Where a full-scale human is capable of moving body parts to get into small spaces, and clothing is really flexible, that is not the case with cast figures.

A figure that would get into a small space like that on the Davenport would have to either be really small (meaning way out of scale), or specially formed to fit. Neither would really provide an acceptable solution.

Your solution is to get a figure you like, then cut, grind or file away only the parts that interfere with the desired location. Even a too tall figure can have its legs shortened by cutting off the feet to fit. After installation, the modifications made will not be noticed.

BTW, It's almost always better to modify the figure rather than the locomotive or rolling stock...

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Chuck:

A little photo storage and handling information:

First, you don't 'upload' from Photobucket (or any other photo storage site. What you do is provide (paste) a link to where the photo is stored ('hosted') on said storage website. That storage could even be your computer system if it is set up as an always on server.

When someone clicks on the photo link, the computer and network actually contact the photo storage site in order to view the photo. The photo is never actually brought into the viewer website.

Next, most free public access websites do not provide picture hosting services. The ones that do provide hosting services typically charge a premium for that service.

There are many reasons for not providing free hosting services, including the huge amount of storage required, the need to have staff to operate and monitor that storage, and the risk of some kind of cyber attack that could quickly overwhelm the site.

The above reasons are why sites like Photobucket, along with numerous others exist. They have the storage, they make money by selling advertising, and they are set up just to provide that specialized service.

As richardl & rogertra wrote, it is really simple once you understand how it works.

Happy (Perfect Picture) RRing,

Jerry

Putting Barry's pilot truck on you locomotive should really help with derailments, especially on your less than perfect trackwork.

Also check the back to back spacing of the pilot wheels. Incorrect back to back spacing is also a cause of derailments, especially on turnouts.

The generally accepted standard for back to back wheel spacing is 1.575". Note that this dimension applies to all wheels on LS equipment, but your pilot wheels will definitely be the most sensitive to errors in back to back spacing.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

I'm assuming you are moving the NMRA / LS switch in the smokebox. That switch is intended to adapt the locomotive for either polarity standard. While it does reverse the direction the locomotive moves under power, it is definitely not intended to be a reversing switch. As others have written above, use the reversing switch on your power supply to set the direction of travel.

As to your noticing some problem when using one setting of the NMRA / LS switch, I would guess there is a loose wire, possibly on the back of that polarity switch. While you could start disassembling the locomotive to troubleshoot and repair this, it really shouldn't be a problem since the locomotive runs fine on the other setting. I would recommend just staying with that setting.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

I believe that locomotive is a Baldwin VO-660. The hood is too long and the stack arrangement and headlight are not what is found on an S-12.

Take a look at this link for a history of the Pickens Railroad, including a section on all the motive power:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pickens_Railway

And here is a link to information on the VO-660:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baldwin_VO-660

Note that it says the Pickens RR VO-660 was originally sold to Singer, then on to Pickens, and remains on the property.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Great additions to Bachmann's LS lineup!

I'll try a couple of the switch stands with the goal of standardizing on them. My RR is mostly operated by the train crews, including lining the switches by hand, so these will fit right in. The street price mentioned elsewhere also seems very attractive.

On the other hand, my minimum radius is 4' (8' diameter), so these great looking switches won't work for me.

I've seen it suggested that Bachmann will see how sales are for the 2' radius, and then decide if there will be larger radius switches. The problem with this is that in my case there won't be any sales of the current product. I suspect that is the case for many established RRs. It would seem that these new switches are of materials and construction that outdoor RRers want, but are sized for the set-track operators.

I sincerely hope Bachmann will extend this line to include at least 4' radius switches!

Happy RRing,

Jerry

It's pretty easy to find a CAD operator who will do the design work required for 3D printing, and there are numerous individuals and companies providing printing services to order. Here is a link to one of the more well known and popular:

http://www.shapeways.com/

Note that Shapeways even have a model trains page:

http://www.shapeways.com/miniatures/model-trains

Now the bad news: You would really need to do (or have done) some careful analysis for the gear you would like to have made. The most common plastics that are printed are rather weak, and probably not directly useful for a highly stressed part like a gear. There are lots of options for 3D print materials, but each has plusses and minuses, and require some analysis of the desired results.

Another possibility that is commonly used is to print the part in plastic, then cast it in a harder material, even including various metals. Lots of available options.

If I was pursuing this, I would probably look into using a metal hub, then print the gear directly onto the hub using one of the plastics that are recommended for service as wear surfaces.

Sounds complicated, but actually can be done pretty easily without purchasing either the CAD system or the printer!

BTW, many home machinists are capable of making a gear. Ask around.

Note that none of the above addresses cost. Just a rough guess, but I would think that a single gear would possibly cost somewhat more than an entire new chassis or maybe even a whole new engine.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Sorry I can't help you with your specific problems, but as a life long model railroader, and life member of the NMRA since the mid 1970s, I would like to respond to your statement, ". . . I feel large scale gets short shrift from the NMRA."

First, there was, and continues to be a strong feeling among many LS model railroaders that there is no need for standards. Some folks who tried to overcome this attitude in the early days when LS was becoming popular were literally shouted down by very vocal folks, mostly saying like, "We don't need no stinkin' standards!".

Second, you need to understand that the NMRA is virtually a 100% volunteer organization. With the exception of a few paid office staff that run the administration, library and other support functions, the NMRA is dependent on members, manufacturers and vendors to propose, set and adopt standards. With the attitude exhibited in my first point above, it has been virtually impossible to get standards set and maintained for LS trains.

Third, it is my opinion that this lack of standards really hurts our hobby. Things as diverse as scale and gauge specifications, common trackage and electrical standards, and advanced developments like DCC only exist due to the efforts of volunteers in user organizations like the NMRA. Most of those LS initiatives do not exist in the NMRA.

Meanwhile, the NMRA, with something around 20,000 members in 18 divisions, continues to be a strong component in the model RRing hobby. We just don't have much participation in the LS segment.

BTW, you can help overcome this lack: Join the NMRA and become a volunteer, joining in or perhaps leadomg some development effort in an area that interests you!

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Bill:

Check your email.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Jim:

Northwest Shortline is probably your best bet.

You don't have to know any "specs" to be able to find solutions and purchase from them. They are really experienced in virtually all model locomotives, and especially those that commonly experience gear problems.

Here is a link to the NWSL homepage:

http://www.nwsl.com/

There are forms you can fill out, giving what information you know about what you are looking for. If that isn't enough to get what you need, there are also phone numbers there. Give them a call and there is a significant probability they will be able to help you.

Thank You for your service!
--and--
Happy RRing,

Jerry

No matter what the substrate, I would definitely NOT nail the track down.

Model RRs are subject to maintenance (example: changing a defective turnout), changes (example: adding a siding) and expansion. Having nails holding the track usually means that the ties will be damaged either during installation (nails driven too far and either breaking the tie or changing the gauge) or be destroyed when it is time to make a change or addition.

As suggested above, put the track down with an adhesive that can be removed later. You do not need much adhesive to hold the track in place, as the forces are very low.

You can use the 'pins' (not nails) to hold the track in place while the adhesive dries, but even this is not necessary if you use a contact adhesive.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

As opposed to the misinformation above, there were significant narrow gauge railroads in the Eastern U.S., and these certainly included passenger operations. These early day operations will also go with the buildings you have already acquired.

Google is your friend, but here is a link to information on the 2' narrow gauge railroads of New England to get you started:

http://www.mainenarrowgauge.org/history/maine-two-foot-railroads/

Be sure to take note of the fact that the UK's 2' narrow gauge railroads are cited as the source of the ideas for our U.S. 2' RRs. And, follow the links at the bottom of that article to a variety of 2' narrow gauge RRs.

0n30 is an ideal scale / gauge combination to model freelanced narrow gauge (and especially 2' narrow gauge) RRs of the last century!

Lots of equipment is available for either direct use or bashing. See:

http://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=487_673

Note Bachmann's 0n30 0-4-2 Porter and 2-4-4 Forney. Both of those locomotives are very typical of Eastern U.S. 2' gauge RRs.

Happy (Very Narrow Gauge) RRing,

Jerry