First round, I bought one. 

For all the next ones, I've just been splicing in the necessary amount of similar guage wire. 
But if you're not confident in your wiring or don't have the tools the extensions are the way to go.
Get a multisize wire stripper - the green wire is pretty thin.
Solder would be the preferred method.

Thanks.  I'm definitely going to stick to DC.  And those premade "switches" from Atlas look very useful.  I have a third power supply so I think I'll divide the inside loop and sidings into two as a learning project on the "cab control" method.

I think I have enough of the ez-track powered re-railers, though it looks like it wouldn't be hard to wire up manually like old-style/Atlas track.

Hello everyone. We're new - so please excuse our ignorance.

We have several e-z track "sets" and additional track (turnouts, etc.).  We also have a number of older HO engines and cars that grandma had never sold.  Right now we have a large loop with two turnouts per side and an inside curve on each end.  We can run two trains with two people doing a dance with the remote switches to keep the trains separated.  Fun but limited.

What I'd like to do - for now - is have an outside loop and an inside loop with sidings, and be able to run two trains independently.  I've been trying to wrap my brain around blocks and power districts, and I'm going to have to figure that out eventually (or wait til my "partner" here is old enough to figure it out himself  ) but I was thinking . . .

I have separate power supplies.  Could I simply "isolate" the two tracks at the turnouts?
I understand that if the second "line" wasn't powered up when the engine hit that spot it would die - but if the power was on to the second "line" the train would then continue onto that second track and then run off that power supply.

So is this just not workable? How would I isolate the two sections of ez track (where the switch meets the next section).  Are there nonconducting or insulating track connectors that could be installed in place of the metal connectors on the ez track?

I've seen a web page where there were explanations for how to separate an ez track switch (that was originally powered on both sides of parallel track) that involved cutting certain tracks with a dremel tool and then disconnecting power feed wires on the back side.  That seemed a bit much for me, but I have the equipment already to do it.  I was thinking that insulating the turnouts from the other sections at the junction would be easier if it was possible.

Oh, and if this has been answered in a thread I didn't find in my limited searching around please feel free to just link us to it.

Dad (John) n Bob.