Does the HO RS3 have no sound mute function ? When I hit button 8 on my NCE PCab sound does no shut off. Others do.

Hi, my HO 2-6-0/sound somehow got messed up. After several refresh attempts (CV 30 to 2 value and 8 to 8, power off/on ) It either has sound but no light, or light with no sound and whistle blows and headlight flashes 2 times repeatedly while rolling. Do I absolutely have to ship it in to Bachmann repair to correct this what Tsunami manual 'trouble-shooting' states to be a 'code 2' software problem and must go back ? Or, is there a programing maneuver I can perform at home ?
Much thanks,
Mark Harris

Hi all..I may have asked this a good time ago but can't locate it..I keep trying to remove the shells of my HO connie and mogul..I remove what I believe are the correct screws ( tiny two under cab and larger one above pilot truck to smokebox )..But only the cab wiggles a bit..I just can't get the shells to lift off frames. I'm affraid if I force it I'll snap something. So I give up and put screws back and let it go again...Is it in fact really necessary TO lube modern motors anyway ? I lube all other moving parts very sparingly, clean treads with alcohol (Or, AlCO haul !) and hope it's enough...What am I missing that everyone else seems to find so commonplace about shell removal..? mogul is in about 2 years now and connie about 3 months..Respectfully, I don't need more underside photos..I need a clear, precise ' How to ' explanation if you would..
Thanks again,
Mark

I may have submitted this same question some time ago but am still in the blind on this:
Why is it seemingly impossible to get chuff rate in sync on this engine...Others have suggested this and that with 'loadable speed curve' setting bit 4 of CV 29 to 1 and then CV 25 to 16... 67-94 to theses, 10 to this, 209, 210, 66, 95, etc....But, no matter what I do it just does not syncronize the way my 2-6-0 does..It is next to perfect since day one, and is not even Spectrum..With Spectrum connie roll-off can be OK but not at speed ..Or, at speed OK, but not at roll off....

Anyone have a sure fire method to program 4 chuffs per each wheel rev on Spectrum 2-8-0 from slow roll off to top speed using CV 29 " User Loadable Speed Table" Cvs 67-94 ?I know how to unlock it and to put CV25 to 16..Plus CV116 rates..But is it possible to have it 99% perfectly in sync ?

Hi, I may have asked this back a ways..My HO mogul is basically very nice..It is a replacement for another going back maybe 1.5 to 2 years now. First one blatantly lifted up and down as it rolled..This one is lots smoother but it too does this to a small extent..My guess is wheel quartering as looks like side rod is binding/losening..Can I pull pins out of rods and run it without them a tad to confirm my suspicion ? I've heard wheels can not be turned on Bachmann axles or will destroy it. True ?

I need my Ten wheeler repaired...I go to log in to 'repair request' and system asks for ID and password..As I couldn't remember my password I established a NEW one..But form still requires OLD one...It is the precisely old one I can't remember to begin with..Why doesn't system at this juncture just ask for NEW one if new one is what is needed in the first place ! What good does it serve entering old/disabled password, one needed changing if I have in fact now a new one ? On top of this, 'repair' doesn't utilize same log in info as needed for THIS very message..Why aren't the both under the same user I.D. and password ?   

Hi, sorry if I'd asked this in past. Not sure.: My Spectrum DCC/sound HO 4-6-0 runs quite good forward. But in reverse there is a noticeable jerkiness/hesitancy. It's like the way a rowboat goes fast when oars in water and slows as oars leave water affect. I've tried to counter balance this changing CV values in motor control, PWM, BEMF. Acel/decel levels, forward/reverse trim, ET AL. which doesn't correct it. I can't get the shell off to watch gears/shaft. Please tell me how to do this(Shell off). I can't get gearbox cover off as the Delrin brake rigging is in the way and don't know how to remove that either. I do notice wheels on the axle which has the worm/gear on it that it kind of swivels. I.E. looking at it from above or from under one can see each wheel moving forward and back in the frame...This leads me to think there might be binding in side or main rods.. But I can't actually see this as it rolls. Ironically, my non-Spectrum mogul runs near perfect..Suggestions welcomed
Mark

Hi, I may or may not have enquired about this earlier, but I can't find it...I have a mogul which was a replacement for another..This one is really OK but, only in reverse she judders a bit when crawling until she is moving say, 10-15 scale MPH..Forward is completely fine..I've carefully oiled every moving part ..One crosshead was sort of bent outward from its bottom rendering it very slightly diagonal..I was able to correct this 94% with my finger pushing it toward frame and a little crimping with a hemostat..Nothing seems to be binding. Is this just the nature of this particular issue..perhaps a motor behavior ? Or, what else might this be ? I've even tried some motor tweaking with my NCE throttle ( kick rate/kick depth/other), but nothing so far remedies this.

I think I saw an ad for this in MRRer..Are they available yet ? DCC/sound ?

Sorry, I asked this already but it  recieved no replys.  I'll ask once more:  As I managed two break to parts on my HO ten wheeler, can they be ordered ? One tender stirrup and one teensie, lowest under cab part which seems to resemble a brake-tension turn-buckle and mounts on the brake cylinder crosswise rod. Also, not sure, but it may also have been attached to the part which simulates the brake shoes (below/around  the gear box cover ). The stirrups look as if they snap in place..Or, am I looking at an entire new tender shell  in order to obtain a new stirrup?

Your parts availability list does not show tender stirrups (cab steps) or tiny part under cab which I believe resembles a brake-rigging-tension turnbuckle which has the crosswise brake rods through them. Is it that the stirrups only come with tender shell and other comes with say, gear box cover ?  This is the HO 4-6-0..,
Thank you,
Mark

Am I correct that to remove the shell on the Ten Wheeler there are 3 screws; 2 under cab and  large one above pilot wheels into smoke box ? As i've described a problem of late with this engine I would like to get a look at the motor and things..Maybe lube shaft.

I own an HO Ten Wheeler for about a year now...She seemed to run perfectly until recently..When in reverse it now does what I call 'rowing'; like the way a row boat speeds up with an oar stroke, then coasts slower when oars are out of water..It had a bent main rod which I was able to straighten by a strong push of the thumb inward..It still was not perfect though..Yesterday I noticed the eccentric crank on same side was not 90Deg. to the driver (not dead center above counter-balance). So I got bold and enscrewed it..First I got main rod straightened out better..But, when I tried to center the eccentic crank, the pin/shaft (tube) which accepts the crank , rods and screw refused to allow me to get crank 90 Deg. to the counter balance below it. It's as if there is a burr or something on the shaft  preventing the crank from being able to spin 380Deg. as seems to have been the case with engines decades ago where one had to hold crank just right whilst tightening center screw...Odder still is that the eccentric crank on OTHER SIDE of engine IS top dead center, 90 Deg. to counter balance !! So, why not on this side ? Does none of this pertain to loco's jerky movement in reverse anyway ? If so, and as I've lubed every moving part but the motor bearings, what is causing this ?   

Hey again, sorry if this is old stuff, but, it seems time to get inside to the motors  now and , if necessary (?) get some LaBelle oil into motor bearings, no ?  If so, where are the screws for both the HO Mogul and Ten Wheelers ? I think I see 2 directly below cab corners into frame...Is this all, and same on both ? I've lost the schematics for both. Does  boiler then slide, say forward and off ? Or are there 4 or more screws on one or both ? Are they long enough that they are easy to drop back into holes ? Or am I looking for trouble , not having  greatest eyesight any longer ?     Thanks, Mark

Hi, if one weathers or paints a bachmann loco does this deem it no longer under warantee ? I wish to weather my mogul while at the same time teeter tottering on returning it to Bachmann for either repair or a 2nd replacement..The right side crosshead is not perfectly vertical ( further out at its bottom ) where left side is perfect..I've made some adjustments to the motor CVs and made sure it is in128 speed step mode but it still jutters a tad whilst rolling. I keep thinking it's that tweaked crosshead getting jambing up a tad..Or, do all of the HO 2-6-0s behave a tad like that (not roll pefectly smooth all the time ) and the crossheads are completely cosmetic and have no bearing on the performance ? Most guys seem to say their's run great which makes me constantly wonder...

Hi, sorry if this is a worn out subject. And I can't find the topic from an earlier date. so I will go ahead and repeat topic..: Is it correct to conclude that matching the chuff rate so that 4 chuffs occur for every complete turn of the driver on a Bachmann HO mogul using an NCE Power Cab throttle while programming on the main after entering CV 116 and after we choose a value for 116, 'enter' MUST be clicked in order to see the results of that value ? If so, synching cuffs to wheels is so tedious..I hear one should give CV 116 about 1/2 its value ( 255 Div. by 2 is about 127) and enter this whilst loco is warmed up an rolling. I have done this but still must continually go back to screen , enter CV 116 then enter another value by trial and error and hit 'enter' over and over to try synching chuffs..Is it possible to remain in CV 116 and just raise and lower values until we see the chuffs matched up , and THEN hit 'enter' to lock in that value ? Also , is there a setting which remains perfectly in sync ? Or does it eventually go out of sync on EVERY  steam loco ?     Thanks, Mark

Hi, I recently had Bachmann replace a brand new faulty HO Mogul..2nd one is MUCH, much better but has a slight balkiness. Others have stated their's run perfectly...Someone suggested to try changing the BEMF,CV 10...I tried this with random values large and small but all she did was freeze up..I then had to do a 'system refresh' or other to get her back....Exactly what is the BEMF ? And is this correct, to change CV 10 value to smoothen out performance ? If not, I suppose I'll have to replace this one, too ! 

Hi, I recently had to have my HO mogul replaced by Bachmann..This was done swiftly and problem free..New one is alot better but has a slight juttering as it rolls..Last night for first time I got bold and went into its motor CVs to attempt smoothing out motor via kick rate and 3-4 other actions using NCE POWER CAB..I botched something because now she does seem a bit smoother (although I suspect it's drive-train related as was first loco, not programing). But now loco's chuffs are ,if any, one for every say, 10-15 wheel revolutions..All idling sounds are present and headlight. But, after using 'system refresh' and or' loco refresh' plus 'off/on 6 second' move and other moves, chuffs still won't come back on..What am I missing ?  It's not the button 8 'mute-on' either !! Also, if juttering IS physical, should I replace IT, too ? Do those in forum who own one have no complaints ? It even got a great review in MRR Mag ..         Mark

Hi..Are all HO DCC Bachmann Russian Decapods exactly the same mechanically ? I.E. Aside from road name and with/without white wall tires are they all Spectrum, all with Tsunami decoders, all with flywheels and ( I think I read ) belt drive ? Or, are some non-spectrum?  Also, will they negotiate a 20-22" radius curve ?
Thanks,
Mark