Quote from: Hunt on January 16, 2018, 03:34:19 PM
Robertn8273,

You may want to wait to use the #6 Crossover in a layout powered with DCC as intended by Bachmann.

Caution – Most of the instructions, which can be found,  to modify the Bachmann #6 remote crossover turnout 447575 and 44576 for use in a DC power layout are not accurate,  Do not use any instructions that have you cutting any wires. 

Len has covered what is required. However, it is easy for most to botch the modifications without illustrated instructions. Even with good illustrated instructions, many botch the required modifications. 

I have the above part numbers on order for use on my new DCC layout.  I am going to control them with the push buttons they come with powered from a separate power pack.  Bachmann does make DCC crossovers that need no wiring.  They are operated by the DCC controller.  Unfortunately, they are on back order and very scarce.

The problem I need to solve is this:

Two N scale straight tracks running parallel to each other. They are horizontal.  Lets call them top and bottom.

The bottom track has a 30° crossing that connects to the top track.  I need to know what radius track needs to be in the top rail to aim into the 30° crossing.  Also important is the length of the radius track; is it a full section, half section?

I tried to post a diagram of the layout but they seem to be out of storage space here.

Quote from: jonathan on April 18, 2017, 01:00:30 PM
Then wouldn't flex track be the most economical way?

Regards,

Jonathan

No, since I already have EZ-Track 12" radius and straight track in my 29X44 layout.  I want to stay with EZ-Track.

Certainly if I bought a couple of packages of every radius track Bachmann makes, I could make it work.  I am trying to avoid having to go thru that expense when I might only need 1 or 2 pieces of a particular radius to connect everything.  The HO layout I built was from a plan that had every piece identified, so buying everything was easy with minimal extras.

That works for the 22" radius, but nothing for the 18" or 15".

I just picked up a Bachmann N scale train set. I would like to duplicate my HO layout in N scale. My HO layout uses 15", 18" and 22" radius curves. N scale track is available in 11 1/4", 12 1/2", 14", 15 1/2", 17 1/2" and 19" radius. Is there a chart that shows how to convert HO to N? I don't want to have to buy a bunch of track in each radius just to be able to pick and choose what fits.

My 060 Bachmann loco leaks smoke fluid but I don't believe I have overfilled it. I just noticed it a couple of days ago when the bottom of the loco was sopping wet with fluid. Is this considered normal? The smoke unit doesn't glow red like it did when new a few months ago. It won't smoke unless it is almost wide open, much too fast for scale operation.

The Bachmann crossing has a humongous plastic frog in the center and it is not electrified.  That is why the short locos stumble and stall because they run out of juice and the short wheelbase can't span the hot rails.

What I am going to do is remove the center section of the Bachmann crossing and lay in the complete Shinohara crossing.  It will receive juice from the rail connectors  The new crossing is beautifully made.  The only problem is overall, it is 6 1/2" shorter than the Bachmann.

So, right now, I am setting up a test bed to determine if the Shinohara crossing will perform as expected.  I want to do this before I cut up the original Bachmann.  I took two 9" sections of EZ-Track and pulled the rails out.  Then, I mated them bottom to bottom and spot glued them together with CA.  I will then cut 3 1/4" off each end, split them apart and I will have 4 pieces, 3 1/4" long.  Next, shortened rails will be reinstalled and they will be connected to the ends of the new crossing and be a drop in replacement.  I may have to but some blocking under the center to avoid sagging when the train goes over.

Now, if this works, I will pull the rails off the Bachmann crossing, cut the tie connections at 3 1/4" from each end and remove the center rails and frog, leaving  the center of the roadbed open.  The Shinohara crossing has different tie spacing and angles, so it won't fit in the footprint of the original tie strip.  I will measure how deep the new crossing must sit to line up with the end rails.  It may only take a few passes with a sanding block or file, but if needed, I will set it up in my milling machine and machine a pocket as needed.

In my mind, this will work and I will have maintained the EZ-Track roadbed.  I will install the new crossing with appropriate connectors and push the shortened rails back to connect.  A few drops of CA should keep the new center section in place.

Lots of work, but if you aren't cutting up your layout, you ain't railroadin'!

Next project is to marry two new Atlas turnouts to the Bachmann turnout roadbeds.  I think that will be a bit easier.  I will keep you posted.

Has anyone successfully removed the rails from Bachmann EZ Track?  I don't mean pull the rails and ties up, I just need to remove and replace the rails from a crossing for a project.  I believe they are just held very snugly in the plastic ties.  I think they should pull out from the end, at least that is what I am hoping.

Do you know if the Atlas turnout has the same footprint as the Bachmann?  If so, I would consider removing the Bachmann turnout from its base and gluing the replacement in place.

I have been fighting problems with my 30° crossing and now I have something worse.  My layout had EZ track manual turnouts and I never had an issue with them.  I upgraded the two furthest turnouts to powered units.  Since then, my 060 locomotive stumbles or jumps the track.  Staying on the straight run is smooth, but switching to the curved turnout is when the problem occurs.  

There doesn't seem to be much tension on the switch points against the rails, certainly not as much as the manual units.  I can run an F7 diesel loco through there all day long without a hiccup, but my little steamer doesn't fare well.  I would like to leave the diesels on the display shelf because my entire layout is turn of the century themed.

It is nickel silver, gray roadbed.  I checked all the rails with a meter and they all show voltage.

Quote from: Len on December 26, 2016, 10:13:23 AM
Nightwing: Are you talking about the HO 0-6-0, or something larger?? It makes a difference.

Len

Yes, a Bachmann HO loco.

I have an 060 loco with smoke.  I read somewhere that unless you keep the stack wet with smoke oil, the coil will burn out.  Also, After using the smoke oil for a few runs, it seems that it doesn't get as hot.  When new, a couple of weeks ago, you could look down the stack as the train passed by and the orange glow was visible.  Now, the loco has to be run much faster than I like in order to get any smoke and the orange glow is much dimmer.

How long do these smoke units last?

There is definitely a problem with the BAC44540 30° crossing.  I am running an 060 locomotive that doesn't like that crossing.  I was experiencing derailing and hesitation and poor performance of the loco going over that section of track.  I discovered that the loco was rubbing its belly on the crossing.  I had to file down the part of the bellypan that covers the driven gear.  That problem was solved.  However there is still a hesitation and loss of power on one leg of the crossing.  The other leg isn't a problem.  I have to run the train at a much higher speed than prudent or scale proportions in order to prevent the loco from stopping dead.  Even at higher speeds, there is a noticeable jerk of the locomotive that often causes the rolling stock to uncouple which will lead to a train wreck if not caught in time.  I have lightly fine sanded the troublesome area with a little improvement.  It is unknown why one leg of the cross is trouble free and smooth, while the other leg will not maintain power to the locomotive.

This is certainly a Bachmann problem and I have contacted them without a reply.  If in fact it is just the nature of the beast that short locomotives will not perform well if using this crossover, then a disclaimer should be on the package.

My entire layout depends on using this crossover and it is a very important item to me.  I am open to suggestions.