General, 
            I have an idea that may work. I too have a GG1 WbyB. Tuscan 2360. I have thought about securing the small rubber insulators to the roof holes with tiny droplets of rubber cement. After the cement dries, I would then mount the pantographs onto their correct location.  The small points from the insulators would then protrude upward through the metal "feet" of the pantographs. This point could then be heated ( with soldering iron or other heat source ) and flattened slightly to allow it to be secured to the foot. Option B would be to supper glue instead of melting the insulator.
             This should secure the pantograph but still allow it to detach during a mishap. The rubber cement bond should fail under a moderate loading. The pantograph seems strong enough not to fail before the rubber cement bond fails.
              Just a thought...Good Luck...671

Reading Fan,   
            Read my post "True Blast Problem" this may be a simple repair to a common problem.

                             Good luck...671

      JP... Try a Website...Dr. Tinker. He might be able to help you with the original factory setup.
      I am considering sending him my first loco, a 671 from 1948. My loco needs the drivers to be "Quartered". He provides that service and many more for original Lionel Trains.

                                I hope this helps...671

     I currently have three WbyB locos. My most recent is the 671 Turbine semi-scale. I purchased this on Friday. Saturday morning I unwrapped the loco and tender, nice reproductions. One item that disappointed me was the type style of the number 671. It looks exactly like this type print only thinner.
     Ok, I can live with it. I may even change the numbers for the correct size and style.
     Here is the bigger challenge. The 'true blast' whistle blows without volume. One must put his ear next to the tender to hear the sound. This is the same challenge that I had on my new WbyB Great Nortern Berkshire, two months ago.
     I found the cause to be the same within both tenders. On the True Blast's electronic board near the outside edge; there is a component mounted vertically, made with a bright metal and is circular in shape. In the center of the circle is a small rectangular slot. I believe this is a variable (adjustable by turning the rectangular key hole) resister. I believe this adjusts the volume of the 'True Blast' sound. Turning the keyway only gave a moment of louder sound. The answer was that this device was bent away from a small blue capacitor distorting its' design shape. As soon as I bent this device on its mount toward the blue capacitor..... PERFECTION.

                      I hope this helps.....671

Thanks again for the heads up, JOE and Philly. 
     I pulled as much wire as possible out of the chassis of the Madison car, straightened the wire ( removed the loop ) pulled half the wire towards the center of the car, bent it back towards the center pickup.
     This proved to be the simple "repair". The wire no longer "Rubs Out".
Simple fix.

                           Thanks ...671

A quick note:  Close examination of my Berkshire and my Semi-Scale revealed that they both have identical boiler shells. This retrofit should work equally well for both locos.
       I raised the height of the smoke stack by pulling the stack upward from the boiler shell. I then added a very small piece of shrink tube to the side between the stack and the boiler shell. pushing the stack back down into the shell resulted in the proper height. I then cut off the remaining tab flush to the boiler shell top. It looks great and is still working super.

                    Hope you can use this tip...671

bobbie,  Go to the parts section of this site. I noticed that they list six wheel tender trucks for the Turbine. Give Bachmann a call and see if they are the same or that you could substitute them as a replacement.

                                  Goood Luck...671

Thanks again for all the suggestions. I should have some time this weekend to try these repairs. I let you know the outcome. I think the re-routing combined with softer wire should do the trick.

                         Thanks...671

Jack,
      I have Williams,Lionel,K-Line,MTH and RMT toy trains. They all couple well and properly. I mix and match cars and accessories that I like. I am new myself to the Williams by Bachmann brand. I started with a semi-scale Hudson in December as of today I now own two steamers, four diesels, and two electric locos The diesel and the electric locos all have two can motors powering them. They are good pullers and smooth runners. The steamers are good runners too, they seem to pull less due to the fact only two drive wheels have rubber traction tires on them. Very heavy loads will produce wheel slippage. The diesels and the electrics all have four to eight traction tires ( EP- 5 ). The WBB are a great play and dollar value. I like the locomotives.

                       Have fun....671

I HAVE THE FULL SET (5) OF MADISON CARS "LUXURY LINES". MY CHALLENGE HAS BEEN WITH "RUB OUTS" ON THE CENTER ROLLER WIRE. THIS WIRE COMES IN CONTACT WITH THE WHEELS ON TURNS CAUSING A "RUB OUT" SHORT. ANY IDEAS ON RE-ROUTING THIS WIRE? HAS ANYONE HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM AND A RELIABLE REPAIR?

                                 THANKS.....671

Gandydancer,
          I installed the True Blast into a MTH 027 size  F3 Florida East Coast that had a faulty PS1. I removed the PS1 from the motorized unit and installed the Williams Electronic E Unit. In the dummy A unit I installed the Horn/Bell true blast. It was a very simple procedure. Joe and Bob are correct. The horn/bell fit quite easily into the dummy A.

                          671

     What is the best way to oil these can motors? The space between the flywheel and the housing does not allow for a needle point oiler to have access to the shaft bushing. The gear side is also a problem.
      Correct lubrication will allow many, many years of trouble free performance. I maintain my equiptment. These little "Can" motors seem to not be designed/engineered for periodic upkeep.
       I can easily remove the Can from the truck or Loco chasis but I have not figured a way to lubricate the armature shaft bushings.

       Anyone with a solution  HELP!!!

                                   Thanks.......671

  In my earlier posting, SMOKE UNITS, I tried to solve a problem with my Semi-Scale 2056 Hudson. The Loco came with a non - working smoke generator. I asked if there was an after market smoker available that really smoked ( Fan Driven ) that would fit the space within this Loco. I have a Berkshire Great Nortern that smokes OK. Drawbacks are that it spits and smokes. The smoking time is short, due to the small barrel size of the unit, plus it "spits" out some of the fluid.
    I purchase # 5 Seuthe 6 volt smoke generator. The voltage limiting circuit to the original smoke generator would produce a maximum voltage at 7.9 volts. I felt that this voltage would shorten the life span of the unit. I installed in series on the plus side ( D.C. ) voltage from the voltage limiting circuit two diodes in series with the new smoke generator. This reduced the maximum voltage to 6.5 volts.
    Removing the orignal smoke generator plus the plastic stack adaptor allowed enough diameter to easily install the #5 in its' place. The smoke unit's top sits lower than the original smoke stack but this could easily be raised by adding a layer of heat shrink tubing to the ouside of the smoke tube. ( Tapered Tube )
   The performance of the #5 smoker is excellent. Appox 1 minute of smoke per drop of smoke fluid. The larger barrel size allows more fluid per fill plus the spitting and sputter of the smaller original smoker is now non-existant. 15-20 smoke time well within reach.
   This is an easy retro-fit that works well. I NOW HAVE SMOKE!!!
                           I hope this of some help to all,
                                              671
                                           
   

bobbie21921,
                     Thanks for the heads-up on a MTH Universal smoke unit. Any Idea as to the best Place, Price and Availability to locate one unit. It does not need to puff just SMOKE, I have Grandchildren that like to see Smoke. I really like the Williams' engines, They would be perfect if I could increase duration and output of the smoke.
                             Thanks,

                                           671

Hello again Phillyreading,
       I am in agreement with you. I had just started purchasing Williams Locos this past December. I first landed a Semi-scale Hudson...nice puller,poor smoker. Next aquisition...GP9 Union Pacific...Great runner after breakin no need to series wire. Next a Bershire...Great Northern...not as good a puller as the Semi-Hudson, 8 wheels touch the track, only two have tires. Wheel spin with 5 car ore dump and 5 hopper cars and caboose all post war on hill. Ok smoke. Yesterday, stopped at Trainland Lynbrook N.Y., with cash burning a hole in my pocket. GP38 Santa Fe Warbonet. Great looker, Great puller, nice low speed with excellent coasting plenty of controlable power on ZW 275.
       P.S. I don't quite know what you mean by series parallel. Two series circuits wired parallel to each other?
                        Thanks again...671