OK, I've learned that I shouldn't always expect my turnouts to perform properly. Is that going to be the case with couplers as well?
I have some couplers with leaf type springs and others with coil type springs on the knuckles. Haven't really been able to figure out which is the problem.
I've gone through all my rolling stock and adjusted the couplers and pins with the height gauge. It really seems more like the springs are loosing tension. But this is all new stuff only a couple months old.
Ted,
There are some of us who like to pull lllloooooonnng trains. The knuckles with leaf springs will always let go eventually. You will have better luck with the couplers with metal springs in the knuckles. Even those will let go at times. The bulletproof couplers are the all metal couplers like Kadee or Protomax.
I use the EZmate Mark IIs, and like them, but those cars always go towards the rear of the train.
Just an idea for you.
If you use strictly Kadee #5/#148 and Proto-Max couplers then you should see much better results and the only issues may arise when pulling extremely long trains as all of the components are metal as opposed to Bachmann's which are plastic, but a good and cheaper choice for those with trains not exceeding 10 cars or so. Burnishing the metal couplers also helps, and be sure to replace any missing springs as you will occasionally lose them every so often, other people use an adhesive to keep them from falling out.
Plastic spring were a great cost cutting idea that didn't quite pan out. Couplers with a leaf spring in the jaw (e.g. Bachmann E-Z Mate) soon stop closing properly, letting the train come apart where they are used. Coupler with a metal coil spring in the jaw and plastic whisker springs inside the coupler box (e.g. Bachmann E-Z Mate II) stay coupled much better but after a while quit centering properly. If not centered, the coupler often will not couple up properly when you back one car into another. Having used Kadee couplers ever since they went magnetic, I insist on Kadee-like performance. As long as the E-Z Mates can deliver it, they stay on the car. As soon as one stops delivering that performance, both couplers get replaced with Kadees.
Over the last 40 years, I have had to replace few Kadee couplers. The usual cause for their replacement was a nose dive to the basement floor. The sudden stop typically bent the trip pin and the jaw but often this saved the car from further damage.
Jim
Just an FYI regarding metal couplers. Kadee is phasing out the 40-series metal couplers that come with the bronze centering springs like the #5. They are being replaced with the 140-series metal "whisker' spring couplers, e.g., #46 is being replaced with the #146 whisker, #47 with #147 whisker, etc. The #148 is the "whisker" equivelent of the #5, but according to the Kadee website there are no plans to phase out the #5. It's too popular.
Len
Len,
that's good news as at least 95% of my couplers are #5's.
Jim
even if they decided tp phase out the 5, there would be no major problems. just remove that infernal copper centering plate when you replace the coupler.
Based on my experience, I agree with all the statements made on this thread. For years the only 'flavor' of couple I would use was Kadee. About 5 years ago I began installing EZmate couplers instead - not realizing the vast difference between EZmates and EZmate II units (...don't waste your time on EZmate couplers for the reasons mentioned in the posts above).
Frankly, I am generally satisfied with EZmate IIs; but sometimes run into a problem with 'coupler droop'. This is much more noticeable on some cars than others. Occasionally I have been successful in using some thin plastic tubing as a shim...this isn't always possible. I have noticed that not one of the Kadee #5 couplers ever has a 'drooping' problem. The shank hole in both the EZmate II and Kadee #5 couplers appear to be of the same size. Strange...does the copper centering spring provide more support for the shank? It would be interesting to substitute a Kadee #148 whisker coupler on the offending car to see if that unit 'droops' also.
Ray
Ray,
I believe the 'droop' is because the EZmate shank is just a hair thinner than the Kadee shank. This is noticeable when trying to install a Kadee coupler in a Bachmann loco with EZMate II's from the factory. Your shim idea does work, if you can find a piece of styrene thin enough.
When adding Kadees to a Bachmann product, one can either sand the inside of the coupler lid just a tad, or file the Kadee shank just a bit. Either way solves the issue. This fix is required even when using the whisker spring couplers. That's been my experience so far...
Regards,
Jonathan
one reason you don't find coupler droop on kadees vs their plastic competitors is that plastic shank couplers have a tendency to bend if they snag something. if you are using plastic couplers, it pays to make sure your trip pins are properly adjusted before you try to run them.
The shank on the #148, and other Kadee "whisker" couplers, is slightly thicker than the #5 to make up for the thickness of the missing bronze centering spring. I've trimmed down Kadee coupler box shims to fit the draft gear box to eliminate EZ-Mate droop due to the thinner coupler shank.
Len
Does anyone know which Kadee I should get for Thomas & Friends HO? Thanks.
there's the million dollar question. i haven't been able to get an answer to that one myself. my guess is that you'll need to body mount a 5 or 148 in a kadee box. i am not sure how much shimming you'll need to do to get them at the proper height.
Quote from: Loco-Man on April 12, 2011, 02:22:34 PM
Does anyone know which Kadee I should get for Thomas & Friends HO? Thanks.
For the Bachmann Thomas trains it is best not to bother with Kadee becuase it is not really necessary, metal couplers are not really need unless you are going to be running trains of 20 cars or more. Also, there is no good way to mount the couplers at the correct height without doing a lot of work and even then it is not guaranteed to be perfect.
Well I was pretty much convinced that Metal couplers were going to be in my future. But I only run 10 or less cars. Also now I have questions as to what couplers will fit in the draft gearbox of my existing stock, (not Thomas & Friends, just regular Bachmann stuff). How do I figure that out?
usually kadee 5 or 148 will fit. they are drop in replacements on at least 90% of the stuff out there. over the last 20 years or so, manufacturers have done a great job of retooling cars to accept these couplers and their plastic clones.
If your Bachmann cars use the medium center shank EZ-Mate coupler and you want metal couplers, you can use the Kadee #5 w/bronze centering sping, #148 "whisker" coupler, or #58 scale head "whisker" coupler. You may have to thin the coupler box lid a bit with sand paper if it's too tight a fit.
A fairly comprehensive list of recommendations for converting Bachmann locos and cars can be found at http://www.kadee.com/conv/hocc14.htm (http://www.kadee.com/conv/hocc14.htm)
Len
The Kadee's ARE thicker shanks and you WILL have to adjust. Another suggestion is to glue a very thin shim to each side of the coupler box before putting the lid back on. This will give you the space needed for the thicker shanks and is much faster than sanding/scraping down the lid thickness.
Quote from: ACY on April 12, 2011, 06:21:48 PM
... metal couplers are not really need [sic] unless you are going to be running trains of 20 cars or more ...
Basing the need for metal couplers on the number of cars alone makes no sense. Pulling double that number of fully weighted, free rolling cars on the flat is no problem with plastic couplers if you drive your trains realistically with gentle starts and stops. On the other hand, when dragging a dozen less than perfect cars up a twisty, winding 4% grade with two or three locomotives at the point, even metal couplers will fail occasionally.
If you want a rule of thumb, try this one: If a single locomotive can move the train without slipping its wheels, plastic couplers will do the job for a careful engineer. If you find you have to use multi-unit consists to move the train, metal couplers are in your future.
Or to simplify it:
With one locomotive - plastic couplers will do.
But better get metal if you use two.Jim
I see what you mean Jim. But I have a couple locos that can pull as much as several other locos mu'd together, so I guess there is no good rule, each has some exceptions. So I guess it is just best to decide on a case by case basis.
Or if you do like I did, and forget to remove your magnet from a piece of track you replaced . And your rolling stock starts uncoupling for no reason and you cant figure it out . Then one day you make a change and find your problem stuck underneth that piece of track . nice thread, got some good info I needed to hear .
oh it was EZ TRAC I left the magnet under ...
This is related to the post regarding Kadee's for Thomas the Tank Engine stock. Recently I built a mini layout for a client who planned on using the MinitrainS Plymouth set. These cars have European couplers and are not compatible with our knuckle couplers. I called Kadee's tech department and asked if there was a Kadee replacement product...there isn't. My point is that the Thomas rolling stock appears to have the same type of couplers as the MinitrainS and, if so, do not have a direct Kadee replacement unit...no idea about EZmate II - but I doubt it.
I would like to report on the client's success with coupling/uncoupling his HOn30 rolling stock; but he hadn't received shipment of the set when I delivered his new layout.
Ray
to Jward : have you considered mounting the hook & loop couplers that Bachmann makes to one of your tenders or other rolling stock to couple to the "Thomas" line of rolling stock ? I modified a tender from one of my Hogwarts sets to pull Thomas express coaches . It worked well because the connection to the tender required only the removal of one screw and replacement of the original coupling. John II.
i don't run much steam, and i'd like to retain the flexibility of my locomotive fleet. i may try mounting a thomas coupler on a boxcar though.