smoke deflectors where get a set for the nyc bachmann 4-8-4 want a set to paint gray and put them on my UP bachmann 4-8-4
up
This has been asked before and I don't think they are available from anyone.
Do a search you will find the post.
Jerry
I shouldn't think it would be to hard to make a set of defectors out of thin sheet plastic .you would want a pair of braces on the inside between the defector and the boiler but should be simple enough to do.......
ok im not good at making stuff tho :(
Not to rain on your parade here, but maybe it is time to jump in a bit and see if you like it. There is a whole world of enjoyment and personal satisfaction-I don't care what anyone else thinks of it-it is going to be yours that you did. Smoke deflectors are a relatively easy straightforward project; why don;t you give it a try?
Rich C.
i have they don't look right
i did ten time none of them fit or look right
Quote from: union pacific 844 on January 14, 2013, 04:05:53 PM
i did ten time none of them fit or look right
Smoke deflectors must be among the easiest item to build as they are just flat sheet metal with possibly handrails fitted.
Did you study photos first?
Did you use thin sheet styrene plastic to make them? The stuff Evergreen makes?
Did you draw, to scale, the shape of the defectors onto the styrene sheet?
Did you use a brand new hobby knife blade to cut out the defectors?
Did you use liquid styrene cement?
Micro Mark has stuff for making rivets. Super Detailing take practice and patience. It is not plug and play for impatient people.
I remember many years go seeing some stuff for trains and i said to myself, that does not look too hard. Big mistake. Took a lot of practice.
You can use styrene or brass. Some use a light hammer and a pointed punch. Some use an automatic center punch with a tip modified for the proper size rivet.
NWSL sells a rivet making tool the last I knew.
A Google search for making ho scale rivets will get you links.
Rich
844-
You don't even have to punch rivets if you don't want to. There are now
decal rivets which go on just like any other decals. I'm guessing that there
must be a bit of a noticable edge of the decal but it sure seems like a much
easier process than punching rivets.
-- D
Quote from: union pacific 844 on January 14, 2013, 01:10:07 AM
smoke deflectors where get a set for the nyc bachmann 4-8-4 want a set to paint gray and put them on my UP bachmann 4-8-4
MR in the late 60's had a short article on how to make them from thin sheet plastic. Made a pair of them for a AHM Berkshire. Phil
Doneldon;
Hi. I have a set of thise "rivets" and am summoning up the courage-kidding. I would think that, given they are thin decals, the proceedure would be the same as with other decaling processes. When time permits, I have a lot of decalling to do, enough to keep me busy until-say-the next presidential elections...so I will try them then. I seem to remember comments regarding using "Future" on the model first, as you would use gloss paint.
Rich C.
Rich-
Yes, the procedure is the same for rivet decals and conventional
decals for lettering or whatever. I mentioned the line for the edge
of the rivet decal because I believe it would show.
-- D
with all the time and money you're putting into this project, why not just buy an FEF? instead trying to mock one up?
Not trying to burst your bubble here, but you can get the models pretty cheap if you set your mind to it. Even the brass market is flooding with different FEF's and they're coming down in prices.
i have a fef-3 844
Is it a Rivarossi FEF or just a mocked up Bachmann FEF from an NYC or ATSF prototype? I agree that if you look around you will find an actual Rivarossi/AHM FEF for good prices at times. I have seen the Rivarossi models occasionally at train shows for $50, Ebay has a couple cheap ones right now too. If you have your heart set on making them, they can easily be made out of styrene with a sharp hobby knife, a ruler (preferably a metal one so you don't accidentally cut into it), a small square (this tool is optional but helpful), and of course model glue.
Ryan
Doneldon;
I usually use thin-film decals-like the kind that Steve and Sharon Funaro use in their kits. They look-like a million dollars. They had one set of decals on this Canadian National eight-hatch reefer, and they were a three-step as I remember, and boy, didn't I get nervous doing the overlays. They can be a challenge and a half! One wrong step and it is ; go in the corner, sit down, and have a good cry. They all came out pretty good though. I guess the best advice one can give the newbies here is to just go slowly, take your time, and read the instructions (before you start...)
Having never used Future as a base coat for decals, I am interested to in giving it a go; probably on an old (or not so old )undec boxcar. Any experience?
Rich C.
Rivarossi FEF3 844
Quote from: electrical whiz kid on January 18, 2013, 08:24:09 PM
Having never used Future as a base coat for decals, I am interested to in giving it a go; probably on an old (or not so old )undec boxcar. Any experience?
Rich C.
Rich-
Actually no. I've used various gloss materials, including acrylic which is basically the same as Future, with excellent results. The
reason I haven't used Future is that it's designed to be a comparatively heavy, protective coat for floors and I don't like the idea of a
detail-obscuring coating. A thin spritz of other things adds almost no bulk so it is easily concealed. I am aware, though, that there
are lots of people who swear by the Future technique.
-- D