Hi! I have a double reverse loop layout on which I am going to run one train. Do I need to use 2 auto reversing modules?
One at each end-loop?
Thanks
With the Circuitron AR-1 you only need one module to do a double reverse layout. See: http://www.circuitron.com/index_files/ins/800-5400ins.pdf (http://www.circuitron.com/index_files/ins/800-5400ins.pdf) You need to check the instructions for other manufacturer's units to see if you'll need 1 or 2 modules.
A "dog bone" layout doesn't need any reversing module, since there is normally no reverse loop. A "dog bone" gets it's name because there are two parallel tracks, giving the appearance of a double track mainline, with a loop ballooning out on each end. Giving it the appearance of a "dog bone". Adding crossovers in the double track portion will create reverse loop situations, but many people try to avoid that.
Len
Oh then I am mistaken--it's not a dog bone, but it does have a loop at each end which will cause the train to doube back onto the mainline
The Circuitron AR-1 mentioned above will do the trick.
Len
I appreciate your help, Len! One last thing: The AR-1 will work with ez-track, right?
Are you running DC or DCC? If DCC the Circuitron will not work as it is for a DC application. If DCC you need an auto reverser for DCC. Tony's Train sell their DCC Specialties AR for DCC. Joe
Quote from: MattfromKP on March 03, 2015, 02:28:16 PM
I appreciate your help, Len! One last thing: The AR-1 will work with ez-track, right?
The Circuitron AR-1, as well as other Auto-Reverse units, don't care what type of track you're using.
Two points:
1. You didn't say if you're running DC or DCC, which is why I pointed out the Circuitron AR-1. It's the only auto-reverse module that will work with either one. All of the others, Digitrax, MRC, etc., are for DCC operated layouts only.
2. Since the Circuitron AR-1 uses opto-sensors between the rails, you may have to drill small holes in the plastic roadbed to install them.
Len
I found Bachmann's auto reverse module and the insulated track work great with the EZ Track. Easier to install but costs a little more.
I really appreciate all of your responses--I'm not too electronically inclined so I'm looking for the simplest
solution available. I am operating DC. Jerry, Is the unit at the accompanying link the one you are
talking about? Does it plug into ez-track terminal rerailers?
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss/179-8419885-2908831?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=bachmann+auto+reversing+module
I'm not much on DC wiring, got into HO when DCC was coming alive. The Bachmann module states only for DCC which I was under the impression all reverse loop modules were for DCC only, I could be wrong but that's my understanding.
I have a link that show's DC reverse loop wiring... and other good stuff,
http://www.building-your-model-railroad.com/model-railroad-wiring.html
Jerry
Too bad you're not electrically inclined Matt; you could accomplish what you are trying to do using DPDT switches.
http://www.digitrax.com/tsd/KB71/dpdt-double-pole-double-throw-electrical-switch/
Just a start on the info.
Quote from: jbrock27 on March 03, 2015, 08:07:14 PM
Too bad you're not electrically inclined Matt; you could accomplish what you are trying to do using DPDT switches.
http://www.digitrax.com/tsd/KB71/dpdt-double-pole-double-throw-electrical-switch/
Just a start on the info.
Check out my link Brock it shows how. By the way good evening sir.
Hello Old Friend!! :D
Too much information is never a bad thing, wouldn't you agree Jerry? *Please note while I was typing my reply, yours posted.
Matt,
Like I mentioned earlier, the only auto-reverse module I'm aware of that doesn't care if you're running DC or DCC is the Circuitron AR-1.
All the rest, Bachmann, Digitrax, MRC, etc., require the layout be using DCC only.
The other option is what Jerry and jbrock said, use DPDT switches and do the reversing changes manually.
Len
Brock it took you 5 minutes to post that, and my link was posted before you started typing.
I am not as sharp or as fast a typer as you are, old friend.
Matt,
Here is what Len is suggesting....
http://www.circuitron.com/index_files/ins/800-5400ins.pdf
Should have gone DCC, you know what they say... once you go DCC you won't go N-U-T-S. :D :D :D
Not everyone feels the need for DCC, old friend.
Quote from: Jerrys HO on March 03, 2015, 08:15:21 PM
Brock it took you 5 minutes to post that, and my link was posted before you started typing.
One might get the impression from you
Jerry, that you are making this some kind of contest and the question would be, why?
wow--I am really blown away by your responses. Thank you for taking the time
to help me out. Feel like I am part of a really great community!
You've given me a lot to look into--I'll post soon with my progress!
All the best
—Matt
Quote from: jbrock27 on March 03, 2015, 08:26:41 PM
Not everyone feels the need for DCC, old friend.
Well they should! It's like Toyota, OH WHAT A FEELING! :D :D :D :D
Quote from: jbrock27 on March 03, 2015, 08:32:22 PMOne might get the impression from you Jerry, that you are making this some kind of contest and the question would be, why?
Your the only impressionable person here buddy.
Quote from: MattfromKP on March 03, 2015, 08:43:13 PM
wow--I am really blown away by your responses. Thank you for taking the time
to help me out. Feel like I am part of a really great community!
You've given me a lot to look into--I'll post soon with my progress!
All the best
—Matt
Hope the best for you Matt! Have fun and do report back on your progress.
Matt, it is nice to hear someone give thanks to others for taking their time to help. You are quite welcome and good luck, and keep us informed as to how you do, just like my pal Jerry said :)
Jerry I love Toyota, but don't need DCC. Impressionable?? Hardly. Are you sure you are not looking for a different word?
Quote from: jbrock27 on March 03, 2015, 09:04:14 PM
Jerry I love Toyota, but don't need DCC. Impressionable?? Hardly. Are you sure you are not looking for a different word?
Gosh Jim you just won't get the FEELING. Oh and I am not looking for a different word took me long enough to find that one.
Oh, but I have the FEELING, I have a TOYOTA!
And don't give me that, you did not take any time to find that word, you simply used mine (impression) as the root word for yours! :D
Quote from: jbrock27 on March 03, 2015, 10:27:34 PM
Oh, but I have the FEELING, I have a TOYOTA!
Yeah but look at it this way, now you have DC control where you control only one Toyota where if you got the feeling (DCC) you could operate multiple Toyota's independently from each other without BROCK control or was that block control :D :D :D :D.
From what Matt said, he just has a stretch of EZ-Track with a reverse loop at each end. He wants the train to go back and forth automatically between the loops using a DC transormer he already has.
So his choices boil down to:
a) Use the DC transformer he's alread got, and buy a Circuitron AR-1
b) Buy a complete DCC Control System and either a DCC only autoreverse module, or a Circuitron AR-1.
c) Forget automatic operation, and use DPTO toggle switches, or an Atlas #220 Controller, to operate the train manually.
Len
True Dat Jerry, but block control works fine for us. We don't need the ability to operate 4 locos at once on the same line. Deh layout is not big enough (perhaps I should say, sadly?) to enjoy that or warrant the investment of DCC. I'd like to keep my garage for my TOYOTA instead of trains, y'all.
Quote from: jbrock27 on March 04, 2015, 07:24:37 PM
True Dat Jerry, but block control works fine for us. We don't need the ability to operate 4 locos at once on the same line. Deh layout is not big enough (perhaps I should say, sadly?) to enjoy that or warrant the investment of DCC. I'd like to keep my garage for my TOYOTA instead of trains, y'all.
True Dat? Deh layout? Sounds like your from Bahston. I don't think I stoop that low when I talk.
And I have two double car garage's one for the trains the other for the cars :o.
Wow, you sure know your geography and accents. Just tryin to use words I know y'all understand.
Congrats on the lower cost of living.
I like that, "BROCK" control :D
there is another, simpler, cheaper way. you can use a 3 amp or higher bridge rectifier in place of the autoreverser. gap the rails same as you would normally for a reversing section. wire the rectifier between the power pack and the rails of the reversing section, ac terminals connect to the power pack, dc to the rails. to operate, you enter the reversing section, flip the direction on your power pack, then throw throw track switch to let yourself out the other end. the only drawback is that the rectifier means the reversing section is one direction only. if you go around the loop clockwise you must always run around the loop clockwise, the rectifier precludes operation in the other direction.
jward,
1. Sounds like a great place for a spring loaded turnout.
2. Don't know if the 2 diode voltage drop from the bridge makes much difference in speed between the loop and the main,
but if it does, you could match the drops by adding 4 diodes to the wires to the main.
Main traveling left to right, loop on right:
Your bridge (as I understand):
PowerPackT1 ---->----Bridge1~
PowerPackT2 ----->---Bridge1 other~
Bridge1+ ---------->---Loop outside rail
Bridge1 - ----------->--Loop inside rail
My added voltage equalizing diodes (4 needed):
PowerPackT1 ---->----Diode1Cathode
PowerPackT1 ---->----Diode2Anode
PowerPackT2 ---->----Diode3Cathode
PowerPackT2----->----Diode4Anode
Diode1Anode----->----Main South Rail
Diode2Cathode--->----Main South Rail
Diode3Anode--->----Main North Rail
Doide4Cathode ---->----Main North Rail
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik
Edit: Italics - change voltage equalizing design from diode bridge to 4 individual diodes
yes joe. you have the wiring right. I last used this on an n scale layout about 10 years ago, and I didn't notice an objectionable increase in speed coming out of the loop tracks.
Don't forget, he has two reverse loops. One at each end of his main.
Len
yep, two bridge rectifiers. still probably under $10 for parts at radio shack.
Dear All,
You could use the same bridge rectifier to feed both end loops.
I am going to modify my design on the voltage drop for the main above,
eliminating the bridge and using 4 individual diodes not in a bridge configuration.
This will make the voltages match on each side of the insulators. (Main and Loops)
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik
the key to all of this is to make sure that whatever parts you use have a current rating above that of your power pack.
I'm late to this, but give a look to the Dynamite Canyon tram layout, from Aussie-land. It's a clever solution to the DC loop-to-loop arrangement.
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Lbdod_dXJU>
The 'Dynamite Canyon' approach is good if your reverse loops aren't involved in any switching activity, or built into what started as a Fig-8 layout. In those situations, with a DC layout one of the few commercially available solutions uses Azatrax detectors and relays:
https://www.azatrax.com/reverse-loop-system-2.html (https://www.azatrax.com/reverse-loop-system-2.html)
For the costs and wiring involved, it would probably be simpler to go with an entry level DCC system and DCC autoreverse module(s).
Len