I just uncoupled the connection from the front truck to the fake piston mechanism to see if it is binding.  Twisting the piston mechanism by hand doesn't reveal any binding.

While waiting for suggestions, I may try running on DC (hopefully trusting the Tsunami folks that I won't hurt the sound board - didn't put in a switch to disable it). 

I've converted a number of Big Haulers as well as some other Bachmann locos using NCE D13SR decoders (1.3 amps continuous, 2 amp stall).   On flat track with 5' curves the most I draw is about .7 amps pulling 4 to 5 cars.  I've had some stalls but have yet to blow a decoder.  Hardest part is knowing how to get the loco apart without damaging anything.

I have a 2 year old lightly used Shay that jerks rhythmically at slow speeds.  Doesn't appear to make a difference whether it is on straight or curved track.  All track is flat.  It is DCC converted.  Track is clean and other locos with the same make/model decoder operate smoothly.

Ideas and/or diagnostic things to try?

Thanks, Bob

Tony - I only have one Email address so this will do.

Another question: - how does the forward reverse work off just the left stick? - and if it is like using variable pitch props where center is "neutral", is there much granularity in the speed control?

Thanks, Bob

I asked Evolution RC these questions but haven't received a response.  The questions apply to the ESCs where you can use existing an existing TX/RX.

1.  How does reversing work?  Does a TX need a switch or can one of the sticks be used?

2.  Do they have LVC (low voltage cutoff) that can be set for various batteries?

3.  Do they include a BEC and if so what voltage and amperage rating?

Thanks, Bob

I've put NCE 1.3 cont./2.0 max decoders in a number of big haulers, two Porters, and a 2 truck Shay without any problems, including some brief stalls that didn't blow the decoders.  This is pulling 4-5 cars on flat track with a layout including 5' diam. curves.  That said, I have a master switch to the track I throw pretty quickly if I have a problem so I can't say whether the decoder would blow if I left a loco stalled for long.

The continuous draw per train is between .4 and .6 amps at 14V measured using the PowerCab built in ampmeter.   

I used these decoders based on measuring a stall current of less than 2 amps, but in retrospect my measurements may not have been correct because I think the voltage dropped with the power supply I was using.   But, at $16 a decoder, they're a good deal for flat track and a limited number of cars. 

I can't say whether my decoders are getting hot but I've run trains continuously for a couple of hours without any problems.  I did install them such that they're getting as much air as possible - e.g. didn't pack them in foam. 

For DCC I put the Tsunami light logging in mine (using a separate decoder for the motor).  Without taking it apart I think the speaker that fit in the provided space was around 2".  I sealed a plastic cap over the speaker hoping it would increase the volume but it didn't improve it much.  After putting the same sound board in a Shay I discovered the Tsunami light logging simply isn't as loud as some of their other boards - at least from my experience.  But, for indoors and at the price it's OK.

I tried the NCE Cab option to "play" the whistle but wasn't impressed, especially in comparison to a demo TOC gave me over the phone of a Sierra.

Speaking of connector problems, it's ironic this post appeared on the Atlas site a few days ago:  http://forum.atlasrr.com/discussion/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=44041

I'm glad I took TOC's advice from the start of installing stuff by first throwing out any factory boards.

After just over a year in this hobby, my take is customers fall in three camps - live with what comes out of the box, learn what it takes to make modifications, or pay someone to do it.   The reason I think PNP will have problems is because from what I can see many of the products are basically cottage industries.   Consequently one must be willing to put up with a miriad of difficulties.

As an example, I recently bought an upgrade to my DCC system advertised to bump the amps.  So far I've discovered 3 differences in how the system operates.   I'm not unhappy but only because I discovered quickly that if you don't like quirks and the attendant follow up necessary to get things to work, this isn't the hobby for you.

Having spent a career making Mainframe software and hardware work where adherance to protocols is paramount, and seeing where huge corporations don't get it right, I can't imagine PNP working without difficulties in this hobby.

I'm also into RC planes, and the story is no different.  In a review of a new plane I'm considering, it was noted that the servos included in a package deal won't fit without modifying the mounts.  And by the way, PNP is also used in the RC businiess.  I agree with whoever said it means Plug and Pray - and research, and network, and buy stuff you didn't' know you would need, and know TOC's phone number.

Bob

My Bachmann Christmas Trolley produces a grinding noise - since new 2 years ago.  I didn't know if it was normal until hearing another one run.   The noise is the same on straight and curved track.

The gears have been properly lubed and I can't see any obvious problem.  The gears look OK and the lash appears to be about the same on either side of the motor.

Any suggestions on what to try?

Thanks, Bob

I just put an NCE decoder in a Clementine and as with all other Bachmann's I've converted I had to hook the orange decoder wire to the black wire on the motor - in other words in reverse of what one would think.

I just had this difficulty and the problem turned out to be the track spacing was too little on some curved sections - the wheels were riding up on the rails creating drag. 

Do you have an MP3 player?   Before I converted to DCC and sound boards, I got a bunch of train sounds off the web, downloaded them into an IPOD shuffle, and put it and a small battery operated speaker in a train car.

Using a free sound manipulator I also got off the web, I mixed whistles with "clickity-clack" sounds.

Right now I'm doing the same thing in preparation for some kids coming over by putting wild animal sounds into my IPOD to put into a circus train.

Have you looked to see if it indeed has a smoke unit?  Pry the front cover off and have a look.  Pry gently from the bottom - or sneak some tool under the boiler to depress the bottom plastic clip.

I picked up the SAMs display unit but they are stripped of anything not essential to just displaying the train.  However, the boiler plate did have the paper note hooked to it that says the smoke switch is behind the cover.

Thanks, and a great picture

Bob

My 2 truck coal Shay came with a hose with some affair on one end.  Where is this supposed to go?

Thanks, Bob