Stupid question,

Have you tried to clean and lube and oil it?

A drop of labelle clipper oil at each point the rod connects, and to the crosshead.

If that doesn't take care of the problem take the shell off.  There's screws for the couplers front and rear.  If you remove the screw, the shell comes off easy.  Carefully lift the rear of the shell first.   The front cow catch brace arms may cause it to stick.  You may have to seperate them from the boiler chest by pulling outward.

After you get the shell off, you'll see a helical gear attached to the motor.  Put a drop of greese on the gear.

Putting the shell back on is a bit tricker because the screws I've had in all 3 of mine were not quite long enough.  If you can't get the screw to catch the thread, twirl the plastic coupler covering with the tip of a #11 xacto blade.  That will create a small divit which will allow the screw to set further in

Walthers Cars have two screws on top on each of the trucks (if you take them off and examine the top of them.)

The good news (unlike most brands) is they are prewired for lighting.

The bad news is you have to buy lighting separately.

The really bad news is walthers doesn't sell them any more. :-(

The semi good news, it is isnt' hard to add lighting even better then the "mass" produced stuff by walthers.

Quote from: dipeedo on December 19, 2012, 12:53:02 PM
modify the last to read:
Is it to supply DC to polarity sensitive circuits when the incoming DC might have polarity reversed, as in a model railroad DC world?

There are 4 diodes (black cylinders with silver stripes) that connect to the power pickup points (tabs)  This is a full rectifier bridge which turns bi directional DCC current to regular DC.  This is needed because the voltage regulator chip only works on positive voltage, so it has to be rectified first.  This is a bit more complex a circuit then a simple diode/resistor/capacitor circuit, but it should allow for a wider range of voltage operation.

I assume you have a volt meter?  They can be had for as little as $10, but I got a really good digital one at sears for $25.  It measures resistence, capacitence, and conductivity.  They are very handy tools to have around.

IF it were me, (and it may well be because I use DCC) I would use a 12 V regulator as a replacement, and hook up some wide angle lens white LEDs in place of the light bulbs (with appropriate 150 Ohm resister going from voltage regulator)  The capacitors are rated to 25V, so you shouldn't have a problem there.  Now that's some REAL flicker free lighting better then anything walthers offered.

Okay I just looked at mine.

The problem isn't the bulbs.  The voltage is first rectified to turn it to DC, then it is fed into a voltage regulator.  The voltage regulator likely puts out 1.2 or 3.3 Volts DC (The black chip with 3 silver legs).  The bulbs them run off the that.  The problem with voltage regulators is they get very hot  when there is a large voltage difference between the input voltage ~13VDC and output 1.2VDC.  All that energy (around 12 Volts) has to go somewhere-namely heat.  Hence why there is metal hanging off it to act as a heat sink.

10:1 there's the voltage regulator chip burnt out.  Put a volt meter across pins 1 and 2 (+ and ground) it should read about 13VDC.  Next put a volt meter across pins 2, and 3, it should read 1.2 or 3.3 VDC.  If it doesn't, then you burnt out the chip.  You can get more here:

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDrillDownView?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&freeText=voltage%20regulator&search_type=jamecoall

When you hook them up, you might want to try to add some more aluminum heat sink to them to carry away the heat.  I would use a conductive heat sink glue to hold them in place. 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100013

I use this stuff for my heat sinks as well as to keep my micro tsunami 750 cool.  IT works great.

That's good to know about the bulbs burning out on 14.25 VDCC.

That can be easily corrected using a $1.00 voltage regulator, or a cheapo resistor.

I may be mistaken, but the bulbs are actually 1.5 V bulbs bridged across two diodes.  That way they can still work at low track voltages.  This is why the DC light kids cost more because there are more electronics across them.

I have a couple in my basement because walthers stopped making the DCC versions.  I'll examine them and see if I can rig up a circuit and post the photos here.

I toyed around with the idea of doing a C&O Piedmont stub down in Richmond VA myself where the triple crossing is.  That way I could put in token Seaboard and Southern RR's.  That Southern would have looked real nice.  That is a beautiful engine. 

Any way I found that gem while looking for another J2 Heavy 4-8-2 C&O.  Darn near impossible to find one under $175 these days on ebay. 

I have to admit this is a beautiful engine, but it's not my road name and certainly not for this much...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330841589530&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:US:1123

The heavy 4-8-2's are averaging about $150
The 2-8-4 C&O Berks are averaging about $145

I wonder if manufacturers pay attention to auction prices to determine when there should be another run or not.

Clicking on the catalog->HO section->steam reveals a rather paltry selection of non spectrum equipment.  They used to have a separate icon for Spectrum line equipment.

That leaves me to do a search, but I have to know what I'm looking for in advance to find it.

Is it true the only C&O Bachmann is producing is the H-4 2-6-6-2?

That would be somewhat sad if true.  I've only been in the hobby for roughly 8 years, but the C&O availability is the lowest I ever saw it.  Bachmann is one of the last holdouts of C&O steam.
:-(

Is interest in the C&O dieing?  They were one of the largest Class A companies back in the day.

I was looking for a particular model, and I just can't find it.  It seems a lot of trains are missing from the online catalog.

I like my RR Allegheny.  The detail is excellent and it pulls well.

The only reason it's so expensive right now is because it's out of production.  Otherwise you could pick one up with sound for $400 or so.

Is it worth $400 for one with sound?  I imagine Bachmann would give it a MSRP of $500 like the H-4, H-5.  So is there really profit there for Bachmann if they are to compete with RR?

A simple tender conversion on the H-5 will make a decent H-6.

So what's left?

I'm still routing for a H-7 (Simple Simon) used by both the UP and C&O.  There's a big hole in the lineup there.  And UP nuts just love collecting big steam, (ie: Challenger, FEF, Big Boy)

Nice work so far.

I know with the Spectrum J-2 (Heavy Mountains) after you removed the screw you had to physically SLIDE the boiler forward before you could lift it up.

Looks like the point rail is being pushed on.  It's possible the track is out of gauge (too narrow).  This is why it's good to have a NMRA rail gauge handy.

I would check to see if the outside rail (NOT the switch point rail that is moving), is bent inwards a little.  Sometimes with a little force you can bend them outwards.  This would increase the distance between the rails.

Another train options might be "The doodlebug"

This is sort of a fancy bus that ran on rails to carry people and small freight.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=1875

The Maryland & Pennsylvania (Ma & Pa) was a local Railroad that went from Frederick, Baltimore, North to Harrisburg, and east towards Dela PA I believe.

I know it looks pricey, but it comes with good deals online if you shop.  It's also a top of the line Spectrum product.  It is both an engine and passenger car.  And I believe Bachmann's cars will run on tight radius curve still (18" radius).  You'll have to ask Bachmann to be sure.

Quote from: trainmommy on November 29, 2011, 10:13:59 AM
With this type of train and his age his playtime would be limited. He enjoys simply watching it go around and around. He has plenty of play trains with Thomas. So what is the best recommendation for an around the ceiling train set with much supervised train time until train track can be built? Bachmann or Lionel? I really want a pennsylvania rr with passenger cars but am also more concerned with ease of use and durability around the track since it will be up so high and children will be playing under it. I appreciate all of this wealth of information.

Pros of Lionel:
Lionel tin-plate is twice as large and easier to see higher up
Lionel tin-plate is more likely to survive little hands if they get a hold of it.

Cons of Lionel:
Your corners (for the turn) will have to be twice as big
Cost much more because it is larger.  You'll have less room for scenery behind the engine because it's twice as wide.

You can decide which scale is better for you O scale (Lionel) or HO (Atlas, Bachmann, Walthers) by looking at the videos @ www.youtbue.com.

General cost (of HO):
You can pick up a PRR Shark engine from Bachmann pretty cheap online <$50.00.  You can add cars behind it for about $10.00 each if you shop around.  Cheap PRR passenger cars are about $30 each (search eBay).  Most require a 24" or larger radius on the curve because they are LONG, and will derail on tigher curves.  Top of the line passenger cars can be $60 each.  Really good passenger cars are made by Walthers, Rapido, and BLI (Boradway Limited).  Super cheap ones are made by IHC/Model Power/Roundhouse.  They will need work to make them "road worthy"

Track comes in 3 foot sections.  It's about $4.50/3 feet.  Atlas code 100 track is a favorite among modelers.  You'll need cork roadbed beneath it.  That's about $1.50/3 feet.

You can use sectional track which has the roadbed built in, but it is more costly per foot.  It is generally easier to assemble, but you still may have to cut a custom length of track to complete your loop.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=1937