Will after all the reading and questions I finely went out and ordered my first starter set, it's the Bachmenn Digital Commander (BAC00503 Union Pacific), also ordered the scale ruler, NMRA standards gauge, coupler gauge, lubricants and a book on DCC projects and applications. Can anyone recommend anything else that I might need for my first layout.
Friday I'm ordering the Digitrax Super Chief xtra 8 Amp., was going to just get the 5 Amp. But the 8 Amp. Is only $10.00 more, so it will be worth the extra money now for the additional amperage which will be more then enough for what I have planed.
With the extra amperage, will I now be able to use DCC turnout's with out loosing power to the rails.
Thanks :)
Les
A digital caliper, like this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47257 (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47257)
I have had mine for more than a decade, and use it more than I ever dreamed I would. I have another on my desk at work for easy access there too.
Assorted pliers and tweezers.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95426 (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95426)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93598 (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93598)
And Xuron rail cutters
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=XUR2175B (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=XUR2175B)
And if you build kits, sprue cutters
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=XUR410A (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=XUR410A)
Please note that the above sources are ones of many, and were chosen because they had pictures and some information.
I would ask, how big is the starter layout? How many trains will you be runing at one time? Are you the only operator?
Congratulations and welcome aboard!
I suggest you get a good caliper and some quality tools, like tweezers, scalpels or hobby knives, and a designated rail cutter. You can get these items at a fair, even good, price at Micro Mark and Model Expo. Be careful with the lubricants. Many powered models need a VERY SMALL amount of lubrication when new but you will have more problems with too much lube than too little. Also, I'd hold off on the 8 amp booster. Five amps is plemty for HO unless you are planning a giant layout, like a whole basement, with lots of sound locos and several simultaneous operators.
Good luck.
By the way, this is a good source of information for you. You can ckeck the old topics to see if your qyestions are already answered or use the board to pose new ones.
Doneldon
I might add that lubricants HAVE to be PLASTIC COMPATIBLE, NO VASOLINE OR WD 40
when do u need to use lubercent ?
locos should be lubricated lightly every few months. A new engine should be inspected for lubrication. Sometimes there is too much on them and it should be removed. Again using only plastic compatible grease and oil
Les,
Welcome aboard!
I started building my first layout three years ago. One of the first tools I bought was a razor saw. Hobby stores tend to have a few in stock all the time. They are relatively inexpensive ($3-4). Plus, they have a-thousand-and-one uses. I've worked mine so hard, it's now slightly warped, and I need a new one. I could write pages for which everything I've use the saw.
There's two more cents for you.
Regards,
Jonathan
Just got conformation, the set should be here Wednesday by UPS, the other items I ordered have been shipped by USPS and should hopefully be here around the same time. The Digitrax will be ordered today, this should be everything I wanted, to get started. I haven't built the bench work yet, but it's going to be on wheels so I can pull it out to work on all sides. Still rearranging the garage for the size I want to use 10X5 or 6.
Nigel:
You shop at one of my favorite toy store (Harbor Fright), :) I have most of the Items you mentioned already except the rail cutters. I think I'll also pick up the Digital Caliper, the one I have is an old dial version. I work as a Electronics Technician for a Gaming Company so my tool case has most of the hand tool I should need, also I do my own Mechanics, Carpentry, Welding, Electrical, Pluming, you name it. You could say a Jack of all trades and a master at none. ;D
Doneldon:
Thanks for the tips, my Forum reading has kinda drilled the Lubricant usage in to my head. I took your advice have been going through the older topics. I think I'll stick with the 8 Amp., I've all ways tried to get the best that I can afford at the time. Still would like to know about the DCC turnouts and if it would take away from the track power even with the 8 Amp. booster.
Pdlethbridge:
Understand, I been reading quit a few post concerning Lubricant use and the ones I got are from Aero-car. I'll also check the new Locomotive for extra Lubrication before it gets used.
Jonathan:
I have a nice X-acto set that gets used on a regular basis, should go ahead and get a new razor saw, it's also been well used.
Thanks guys, any and all advice and comments are most welcome. :)
Les
You mentioned about turnouts taking away from track power. There is a solution for that. Use the digitrax DS64 units with a wall wort. They can control(at least on my layout) up to 4 pairs of turnouts and they can all be operated from my NCE Power Cab. They can be used for snap switches like atlas or slow motion machines like switchmaster but can't be a mix of each on 1 DS64 and they can be set up for route control.
Use a separate power source for your turnouts. You might already have one -- an extra power pack, leftover charger for a lost or former cell phone or some other version of a wall wart for a tool or appliance which has gone on to a better place and time. I have a bunch of such like and I doubt if I'm the only one.
I use a seperate source for all my accesories and turnouts Mostly its left over power packs from train sets.
Consider a Dremel. I have the wall outlet type with 3 foot flex attachment, plus various bits. I use a diamond cutoff wheel for modifying a metal frame and cutting track gaps. It has a narrow cut with the diamond cutoff wheel. The battery operated Dremel would be a plus. A local owned hardware store in my town carries a lot of Dremel stuff.
Search Google for diamond cutoff wheel.
I get a fair amount of tools from Micro Mark.
http://www.micromark.com/
Don't forget a multimeter though if you do electrical, you must have one. DCC troubleshooting/layout wiring can be difficult without a multimeter.
Lex
Finely getting started, 8) received my train set and a few other support items I had ordered, my Digitrax DCC system will be here on Tuesday baring any delays. Have a temporary track set up and started breaking the Locomotive in, (running it for 30 min. each direction). Also need to get one more piece of track for the siding, it's just a little to short to be able to back in and hook up the cars (couplers not aligning up). I need to come up with a cab # for the EMD GP40 since it doesn't have one, I would like to use all cab # marked on the Loco's with the new DCC system, Bad memory on keeping track of whats what. ;D
Pdlethbridge: Thanks for the information, on the DS-64 I plan on getting one or two of them if needed. I think you misunderstood the question I was asking, what I would like to know is will the track loose be any noticeable amount of power with the 8 Amp. Booster that I'm getting with the Digitrax super Chief, I'm only going to be running one or two trains at the most along with the operating of the switches, it's many going to be a one operator operation. :)
Lexon: I have inherited a few Dremel's in the past, one with the flex shaft, thanks for the tip on getting a diamond cutoff wheel.
Thanks
Les
Les, It sounds like overkill. A 8 amp short will weld the rails. If you're getting the ds 64 units, with 8 amps, you won't need the wall worts. If you have at most 2 engines that should be about 1 amp, each ds 64 takes a 1/2 amp, you'll have plenty to spare. Wiring is easy but it should be done with a bus wire set up. Every 2-3 feet you have 2 wires going from the track to the bus. The bus is connected to the digitrax booster system. This way, there will be no loss of current anywhere on the layout.
Thanks, I kinda figured it was going to be overkill, but I rather have it and not need it, then need it and not have it. ;) Will also be taking some precautions, I'll be adding a PM-42 to break down the power distribution and programing it for a lower short cut-off.
Just so I understand the Bus wire system, that's using two wires running the length of the layout and taping off to the PM-42 and then too the DS-64's. For the size of the layout 10X5, already looking on adding a L- Shape to it. ;D
Update:
Went out a bought a package of each 4 1/2 & 2 ΒΌ track sections, so I could add-on to the siding (works nice now when backing up to hook up the cars), also picked up two packages of the Atlas rail joiners with wires and hooked one pair to the far side of the test track (the oval that came with the set), the train was slowing down on the far side of the oval, what a difference it made on the performance. I now know that a power connection every three feet will defiantly improve performance on the bigger layout I'm doing.
Did have a few minor problems: I broke a few of the plastic clips that hold the rail in place, luckily they were close to the edge and the rail joint and other track keeps it in place. The train handles it all right forward and backwards. I did figure a good way to remove them without destroying it. 8)
What is a good glue or procedure to use to repair the broken hold downs for the rails, I was thinking of using a drop of epoxy to secure it back down.
Has anyone tried to solder there own wire to a rail joint, I would prefer to solder on the joints then to the rails them selves, I'm worried about the heat damaging the plastic. I think the wire on the Atlas ones seem to small of a gauge, especially when I'm going to be using an 8 Amp booster. I understand that it wont be drawing the full 8 Amps but what it could draw may put an overload on the small gauge wirer when a short happens, this is just speculation on my part. :-\
Thanks :)
Les