I checked he Atlas forums and I couldn't find any reports of problems with QSI equiped locos and the Dynamis Pro system. Of course, that may just mean no one over there is using the Dynamis Pro.

Does the loco run normally on a DCC layout that's not using the Dynamis Pro, or does it do strange things there also??

There's also some additional documentation specific to the Atlas Gold SD35 available at: http://www.atlasrr.com/soundsupport.htm It may have some information not included with the loco that will help resolve the issue.

Len

The last status I can find on ex-BAR #52 & #56 is a photo showing them sitting on a siding in Du Quinn, IL on Jan 27, 2010. It's like they fell of the earth after that. Apparently UP refused to transport them to the AREZ from St. Louis because they did not have coupler alignment hardware installed. They were sent to Metro East Industries for a retro-fit in Dec 2009, but no word on whether the work was actually done or not. They still do not show up on the AREZ loco roster. I sent an e-mail to Metro East Industries to see if they could provide any info on these locos, but no response yet.

Len

This is exactly why Bachmann should include CLEAR instructions in the box on how to modify the #6 crossovers for use with DC layouts. Or better yet, redo them with jumpers that can be added or removed depending on what type of layout they will be used in, DCC or DC.

David Harrison's web page can be helpful, but what modifications to do can be hard to make out in some of the pictures. And referring people to a third parties web page for this information isn't exactly what I'd call good customer service on Bachmann's part.

Len

Is the straight point rail tight against the stock rail when the switch is set for straight through operation, or is there a gap between the point rail and stock rail??

If there's even a small gap the front truck wheels may be 'picking' the point rail, allowing the wheel flange to go between the point rail and stock rail, resulting in a derailment.

Sometimes this can be fixed by using a pair of needle nose pliers to gentley adjust the point rail until it makes firm contact with the stock rail when the switch is thrown.

Len

I had a couple of 2-8-2's that would derail moving from the straight into an 18in radius loop. After reading an article in one of the railroad magazines, I add a 22in radius 'easement' section at each end of the loop. After that they'd go through with no problems. Apparently eliminating the abrupt transition from straight to the 18in radius gave the axles a chance to shift in their slots first.eliminated the problem. It may also work for a 2-10-2, but then again it might not.

If you try it, to get the geometry right you'll need some 1/2 18in radius curve sections, since 18in curves are 30deg, and 22in are 22.5deg.

Len

If the rails are tipped outward, putting them out of gauge, you could use a Micro-Engineering or Kadee track gauge to hold the rails in gauge and upright. Then put a drop of gap-filling CA glue to the bottom of the rail, so it wicks between the rail and roadbed. Once it sets, the rails should stay in gauge.

If the problem is worn rails, e.g., the turnout is directly off a curve and the railhead has been worn away by passing trains, there's not much you can do short of replacing the turnout. This usually happens when running long steam engines, x-8-x, x-10-x, that create a lot of side pressure on the rails in tight curves.

Len

I think the original question had more to do with contolling switches with the OP's NCE DCC system than with Atlas switches per se. But it probably wouldn't hurt to ask in the Atlas DCC forum as well. Someone there may have additional insiight into using the NCE system to control switches.

Len

While Atlas #4 switches are "DCC compatible", they do not come with switch machines. So you'll need switch machines if you don't already have them. The Atlas switch machines are #583 ( left hand), #584 (right hand), and #64 for their under table machine that works with either. Or you can use another brand if you want, many opt for the Tortise slow-motion under table machines.

You then wire the switch machines to a DCC switch controller, which is in turn controlled by your DCC system. The NCE switch controllers can be seen at http://www.ncedcc.com/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.browse&category_id=7&vmcchk=1. The Snap-It controls twin solinoid machines, like the Atlas, Bachmann, and Peco. The others are for Slo-Mo machines like the Tortise. You could also use a Digitraxx DS64, which will control up to 4 of either type. The DS64 can be controlled using hard wired DCC connection, you don't have to have Digitraxx's Loco-Net. I didn't see any EZ-Command switch controllers listed on the Product Info pages. Possibly because the decoder is built into the EZ-Track DCC switches.

Len

Since the "What radius?" question comes up a lot on the forums, and a lot of folks don't have a Bachmann catalog, it would be a 'good thing' if the recommended curve size info was included in the on-line Product Reference.

Len

Using "Low Temp" hot melt glue in a gun that can do "Low Temp" should be fine. A "High Temp" glue gun may get the glue hot enough to melt something.

Personally, after getting the tank off the frame, I drill a hole along the center line and load it with a premeasured load of BB's and a shot of white glue to lock them in place. Rattle things around a bit to spread the glue out, let it set up overnight, remount to the frame, and it's good to go.

Len

Joe,

I laid it out with real track and discovered the joints on the curves are generally 'sloppy' enough to allow some flexibility on the length of the straight fitter piece. The joints between curves felt smoother with the 1-1/2in straight, but a train operated with no problems using the 2-1/4in piece once the joints were evened out. Go figure!

Len

Joe,

I don't disagree with #1, I was just doing a 'quick & dirty' to see what it took to make a Fig-8 with the EZ-Track 30deg crossing. The 1/2 curves can really go anywhere off of each leg.

I used the RR-Track software, and it came up with a 1-1/2in gap on each side between the curved legs on each side. If I get some time tomorrow I may lay it out using real track and see what it takes.

Len

Since the manual throw lever operates 90deg off from the Caboose ground throw slide, you might be able to set up a 'bell crank', like the RC plane folks use, to connect the two. The bell crank would turn the in/out motion of the ground throw to side-to-side motion for the switch lever.

Len

Quote from: timhar47 on May 16, 2011, 06:04:15 PM
The figure 8 would have to be a strange one, with extra curves to get the righe degree match, normally an 8 uses a 90, or sometimes a 60.

A Fig-8 with a 30deg crossing is pretty straight forward. Come off each leg of the crossing with 5 full 18in radius curves. Then file the gap with a 1.5in straight with a half (15deg) 18in radius curve on each side. Viola! You now have a 30deg crossing Fig-8 that's slightly over 3ft wide by 6ft long.

Len

If this is a permanent layout, another option would be to use flex track on cork to create an "easement", rather than a fixed radius, between the curve and switch.

Len