It has been my experience that factory applied lettering and heralds are not decals but are painted and therefor decal solutions have had no effect on their removal.
The Q tip method using a variety of several products including  denatured alcohol, paint thinner, acetone, and even a product called 'Flash Back'. This a debonder for super glues. Got it at Hobby Lobby. Some products work better than others depending on the paint the manufacturer used. The key is patience. When the lettering is removed the paint under it will also be removed. I do steam so I spray clear or black gloss from the can, apply new decals and spray again with flat clear to protect the decals. Decal solutions are great for for applying new decals. Hope this info helps.       - John West
'

Where did you hear this Sedfred? How could anyone know this when it's not on the market yet. Why not wait till you receive it and see for yourself. This model has already been speculated to death because it's not a Spectrum. Lets not add to it till you know for sure.

 Loadsalot39  1. Did everything work before you tried to reprogram? 2. Did you buy this new and install the sound card yourself? 3. Have you checked the sound card to see if it is plugged in tight and right side up? Are you now trying to reset without sprog? Sorry, I don't have any other ideas. -john

If you are making adjustments to the sound with the shell off, you will not hear much difference in the sound. The shell needs to be in place to create a sounding box to amplify the sound. -John West

 Loads39  I have gone back and checked my Decoderpro rooster and found my Em1's were not there. Now I remember I could not program my EM1's, 2 of them using sprog 2. The JMRI would not recognize the decoder that came from Bachmann. I had to program each CV by hand on the programing track. I also use Digitrax. Sprog is great for other decoders including the sound value. -John West

Mr Bachman thanks for your response.
Roger, from photos, cladding appears to be lap joints fastened with bolts or rivets.
-John West

Why don't we wait for Mr Bachman to answer my questions (post 17 above) about the differences between spectrum and the 'new' standard line before jumping to conclusions.
I just hope the quality doesn't digress from the spectrum line. Years ago I purchased several Bachman Plus engines. I sold them and didn't buy another Bachman product until the spectrum line came out with top notch quality models every good as brass.
- John West

A couple of questions to THE BACHMAN.
1. After looking at the 2015 catalog, it appears there are no spectrum models being produced for 2015. Is that correct or did I miss something?
2. Is the DCC ready or Sound Value Model your 'top of the line model' and is this is what you have referred to as 'Standard Model?
3. How does the motor and running gear compare with the Spectum vs standard model?
Thanks, John West

Nickel silver is a copper alloy with nickel and often zinc. The usual formulation is 60% copper, 20% nickel and 20% zinc. Nickel silver is named for its silvery appearance, but it contains no elemental silver. Nickel silver is slow to tarnish unlike brass. Steel rusts and is not as good a conductor. -John

load39- Have you tried reading all CVs using sprog and comparing them to factory settings? -John

 I just got an 0-8-0 switcher or is it an 0-8-0 turnouter??? lol
I have been a model railroader for about 60 years. The term "turnout" in model railroading did not exist when I started. Sometime along the way this term made its way into the hobby. I asked two old friends that are retired REAL railroad engineers, B&O and CSX. Neither one has ever used the term "turnout" only the term "switch". I will continue to call them switches. You model railroaders can call them turnouts. It appears to me that both terms are acceptable for model railroading these days. - John West

MP2626, I placed the engine upside down in a foam cradle intact in a well lit area. I used two very small jewelers screw drivers, one each side of the wiper. Place one screw driver on the outside of the wiper and hold it against the frame. Place the other screw driver about half way along the wiper between the frame and wiper and push the wiper against the wheel. don't bend the wiper too much, just enough to apply a little more tension against the wheel. -John West

Here is everything you ever wanted to know about RR switches. - John West  
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ISTsEVhLXazr_lW56LUy9SJ4_96NGPcgeKF-9AnKkMM/edit

If Yardmasters solution doesn't work, check the wheel wiper pickups. I had a similar issue. I carefully bent the wipers to apply more pressure to the back of the wheel and that solved the problem. -John West

TrainWorld's site is taking pre-orders. DCC sound value for $224.99. DCC ready for $179.99. -John West