Hi all,
I just set up my new HO DCC Commander on a 4 x 6.5 (0.5 in thick) birch plywood sheet in my basement (cannot fit anything bigger for the moment) and will be my long-term project. I bought the expansion set and a couple of extra 9 in straights. Both of my DCC locomotives slow down on a segment of the track (a curve section), but then pick up again. I checked and seems all is at the same level. is there any other reason why locomotives could slow down (voltage or so)?
Thanks.
Clean your track. Do NOT use sand paper nor a file.
Use either an ink eraser, if you can still find one, or a track eraser from your local hobby shop.
You could also use some isopropyl alcohol on cloth, you get the isopropyl alcohol from your drug store. The 70% solution should work.
Do NOT use "rubbing alcohol" as that contains oils.
Cheers
Roger T.
Denatured alcohol or WAHL clipper oil can also be used to clean the rails and since they are liquids, won't scratch the rails. I have found some track cleaning blocks to be more abrasive than others.
Roger, I thought you liked to use Rail Zip? (which likely is transmission fluid)
Quote from: jbrock27 on September 08, 2014, 08:11:31 PM
Denatured alcohol or WAHL clipper oil can also be used to clean the rails and since they are liquids, won't scratch the rails. I have found some track cleaning blocks to be more abrasive than others.
Roger, I thought you liked to use Rail Zip? (which likely is transmission fluid)
I forgot denatured alcohol. :)
I use Rail Zip after I've cleaned the rail. I find Rail Zip keeps it clean, it doesn't clean it.
Cheers
Roger T.
The track is new! No visible stains, but will clean anyway. Any other possibilities?
Put your voltmeter on the AC scale. Connect the probes to the output of the DCC system. Compare with reading in the slow down section. Look for a poor connection between track sections.
My NCE Power Cab shows 13.6 VAC on my layout. Your might be different but we are looking for a trend, not so much an absolute value.
Rich
Quote from: Elnovato on September 08, 2014, 10:27:44 PM
The track is new! No visible stains, but will clean anyway. Any other possibilities?
Because you cannot see dirt it doesn't mean it's not there.
You could also have a sloppy connection between sections of track.
You did not mention the brand of track you use, just you purchased a DCC Commander.
I only purchase Bachmann Spectrum locomotives so I am unfamiliar with the rest of their product range.
BTW, is the track nickel silver, the best type, or steel?
That can make a difference.
Cheers
Roger T.
Thanks for that info Roger. I had thought it would clean as well.
El, to expand on Rich's suggestion, check the rail joiners themselves on the problem section to see if they are loose or misaligned. If you have the meter he mentions, I would also try taking out that section, setting the meter to measure resistance (OHMS) and take a measurement at either end of the rails that are on the same side of the (track) section and see what kind of readings you get.
It is the nickel silver EZ track... Will check out the connections. Thanks!
In the meantime, does it cause any harm to the locos?
Probably not.
But if it turns out that it is crud or dirt on the track, it will get transferred to the locos' wheels, getting them dirty in turn and in need of cleaning as well.
Quote from: Elnovato on September 08, 2014, 05:06:22 PM
Hi all,
I just set up my new HO DCC Commander on a 4 x 6.5 (0.5 in thick) birch plywood sheet in my basement (cannot fit anything bigger for the moment) and will be my long-term project. I bought the expansion set and a couple of extra 9 in straights. Both of my DCC locomotives slow down on a segment of the track (a curve section), but then pick up again. I checked and seems all is at the same level. is there any other reason why locomotives could slow down (voltage or so)?
Thanks.
Since you did comment on a meter, I figure right now you do not have one.
In the below link is a good meter available from Harbor Freight for around three dollars the last time I looked.
I have has three of these for some years. They might look different but I suspect they are made in China by probably one company and sold under different names. I see the same on ebay.
They compare very well to an expensive meter.
They have a old transistor checker socket which goes back many years and not used anymore.
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_Workshop/index.htm
More info below.
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_HF/index.htm
Rich
Richg, that was very helpful, thanks!
El, do you have a Harbor Freight store near you?
I googled it and relatively close, yes. The website has 7 function digital multimeters for 6 dollars.
EL,
Other possibilities could be you need more track feeders. Although the size layout you have should not need them, there is a possibility. Does this happen when running both loco's at the same time or when you run one.
If it happens when running one loco does it slow down at the same area with both loco's (not at the same time).
If it is a problem with just one and not the other the trucks may be binding in the curve. This can be fixed with loosening the trucks a little.
Too soon IMO for the track to be super dirty unless your track is set up in a location that attracts a lot of dirt.
I think Jerry makes good suggestions.
El, as you found the Harbor Freight web site, I recommend you read the reviews on that $6.00 meter before purchasing.
Thanks. It happens with both locos running either one at a time or simultaneously. The curve where they slow down is near a switcher, so maybe the connection there is the culprit (visually there seems to be no problem, but I still have to disassemble to check properly). I cleaned and swapped the curves around and saw some improvement (which leads me to believe it is indeed the switcher) but I still want to check the voltage issue. The reviews for the multimeter found are 3.5/5 stars, with mixed opinions on reliability. I am still looking. There are others for some 15 bucks elsewhere that seem reasonable. My layout is "beginners within the beginners" category on a 4 by 6.5, and the trains run very nicely throughout the rest of the track.
By "switcher" you mean a turnout or switch-a section of track that can either run the loco straight or divert it by a curved section, correct? Unless it is derailing when going through the turnout, I would say the problem is not the turnout but where that problem section joins the turnout.
Re: the meter: Rich had made it one of his life's amibtions to outfit everyone with a multi meter from Harbor Frieght. I give him credit, it has been sometime since he posted that picture and pitched the item. He may have stock in HF or knows someone who owns the store near him. I don't know. He states his club uses them and he uses them successfully and when they fail, they just get replaced. He and I disagree and will probably always disagree about whether these are a worthwile purchase. Yes they are inexpensive, but I like to buy tools for their reliablity not bc I can treat them as inexpensive disposable items. I therefore do not recommend them. Others disagree and there is nothing wrong about that. But I look at it like this, if you are already thinking of it as a cheaply replacable item, then how well made and reliable can it be? I think it is wise to consider what the reviewers have to say about it before you decide. They don't have any interest in whether someone purchases one or not, they are just relaying their experience.
If you have a SEARS, HOME DEPOT or LOWES nearby, I would recommend purchasing one there for a few dollars more as it will provide longer, more reliable service. I have had a meter from HOME DEPOT for several years that I use for many more things than just HO trains and have always been able to count on it working properly.
I realise many years ago that this is model railroading, no rocket science. I was a NASA contractor for 15 years and had the best to use.
Built my first multimeter from a kit in 1954.
These meters were the cheapest around, easy to carry and use. I keep one in the car.
I have a HF a few miles from me.
The meter compares very well to my expensive meter.
Life's experiences have show me that what is inexpensive is not always a poor product.
Rich
So you have noted several times in the past. I am sure you are always proud of yourself everytime you state it. I see you note you have a very good meter on hand. In that case, for you, if the cheesy one fails, you would not be left, holding the bag so to speak. Others may not be so fortunate.
No one said MRR is rocket science and I doubt that spending a few extra bucks on a multi meter makes for the difference between using it for MRR and using it to launch a space craft. And I may be in the minority, but as I noted before, I like to use tools for other projects besides just MRR so I want them to be able to hold up.
Yes I know you do, in West Springfield.
Life has taught me that you get what you pay for and that it is worthwhile to listen to several opinons and experiences on something rather than rely on just one person's opinons and experiences. I like the odds to ever be in my favor.
It is good you report the meters (plural) have worked well for you. Others have not reported the same experience.
As I said, this is something you and I will not agree on. It's ok with me we have differing opinons. And as I have said before, your recommendation of buying a Weller soldering station was excellent advice. A good case of you get what you pay for. I am not sure why the same principals would not apply to buying a multi meter.
Jim and Roger-
Well I guess I can throw my two cents in here.
By and large I am in Jim's camp on this one. Roger, you may have been fortunate to have a Harbor Freight meter which is within specs and has proven itself to be durable. They aren't all that way which is why I don't use them. Their quality control seems to be erratic and I don't want to get into buying one, taking it home for a test and then perhaps taking it back for a replacement and additional testing if I get a bad one. But that's not to say I bought the priciest meter I could find. It means I bought a decent quality meter which does what I need it to do and it has performed well for me for many years.
I don't go out of my way to buy more of something than I need but I do like to buy good quality. So, for example, I drive a reliable, comfortable and efficient car even though I could afford to drive a Lexus or Jaguar. And, I bought a top-of-the-line Makita cordless drill because I was afraid of the cheapies like those sold by Harbor freight and even the home improvement centers. I have never regretted that purchase although I've had the tool for nearly ten years now. As Jim implied, and as an old friend's father stated to me once, "You'll appreciate quality long after you've forgotten the price."
-- D
Quote from: Doneldon on September 10, 2014, 05:47:32 PM
Jim and Rich-
Well I guess I can throw my two cents in here.
By and large I am in Jim's camp on this one. Roger, you may have been fortunate to have a Harbor Freight meter ......
Not me, if I'm who your are referring to, I never mentioned any meters. :)
Cheers
Roger T.
Jim, I meant a turnout. I appreciate all your advice (meaning from all of you of course).
Certainly El. You are welcome. Good luck with your decision.
We know you did not Roger. I am sure Doc just made a mistake with his "Rs" that's all ;). BTW, you must have a meter of some sort. What kind do you have?
Quote from: jbrock27 on September 10, 2014, 09:14:31 PM
Certainly El. You are welcome. Good luck with you decision.
We know you did not Roger. I am sure Doc just made a mistake with his "Rs" that's all ;). BTW, you must have a meter of some sort. What kind do you have?
I have a CIRCUIT-TEST DMR 1800: -
https://www.electromike.com/produit_categorie_complet/20508A/
Overkill for model RR use as its max. voltage limits are 1000 DCV and 750 ACV but also I use it in my job as a stage and sometime movie lighting technician.
Sorry the website is in French but I believe the DMR 1800 has been discontinued. I purchased mine some seven or more years ago.
Cheers
Roger T.