I'm converting my Alaska GP40 to a Burlington Northern GP40 No. 3019. For some reasons:
1. It's one of the locomotives Burlington Northern modified by moving the horn back.
2. Another modification is the lower headlight, and the headlight patch should pach up the area I'll try to cut out.
3. The weathering is both simple and complicated, so I can try various skills.
4. I've already have plans to order the 3 cabled MU houses from Walthers, lucky me that only the 3 cable style is on sale.
5. It's BN, a good scheme for a new painter!
My prototype photo I'm using:
(http://www.barp.ca/rail/bn/3019.jpg)
I have some questions to ask:
1. Can someone find some more pictures of 3019 if possible?
2. Is there a place I can get a new nose, or will I have to alter the curent one?
That's all for this forum, I'm off the the Horns & Whistles board to seek infromation on what horn that is, if anyone knows, don't hesitate to tell me.
Joshua
Ew, Walthers... Order from Highball Graphics (http://www.mgdecals.com/homepage.htm)
If I were you I'd replace the Bachmann cab and nose with a Cannon Kit, but that requires a bit of experience with Cannon kits.
http://www.mgdecals.com/Cannon_Company.htm
1551
http://www.mgdecals.com/Detail_Associates.htm
Item number 1024, 1503, 2902
http://www.mgdecals.com/Details_West.htm
326, 266, 267,
The locomotive was made from a simple Atheran Blue Box kit. Nevermind the Walthers, I decided against the order, and I ordered something else... Non-project relating.
Anyway, I've placed my order for all those parts. Now, where can I find the cab/nose again? I can't find Cannon's kits.
Thanks Alex,
Joshua
the athearn unit is a gp40-2, whereas the unit in the photo is a straight gp40. bn had gp40-2s they got from frisco, numbered 3040 to 3064.
Is there an external difference I have to fix to match it?
Joshua
depending on which one you have. the most obvious difference between a phase 1 gp40-2 and a gp40 is the sight glass on the long hood. the gp40 doesn't have one, the gp40-2 does. other later gp40-2s have different length of nose, different radiators, an anticlimber on the rear of the unit.
i think the athearn is a phase 1 early gp40-2. you may be lucky enough to only have to fill in the sight glass.
So there's no window behind the fireman's side?
Joshua
There is. The sight glass is a small oval in the hood below the radiators.
Quote from: Santa Fe buff on June 25, 2009, 12:40:03 PM
I'm converting my Alaska GP40 to a Burlington Northern GP40 No. 3019. For some reasons:
1. It's one of the locomotives Burlington Northern modified by moving the horn back.
2. Another modification is the lower headlight, and the headlight patch should pach up the area I'll try to cut out.
3. The weathering is both simple and complicated, so I can try various skills.
4. I've already have plans to order the 3 cabled MU houses from Walthers, lucky me that only the 3 cable style is on sale.
5. It's BN, a good scheme for a new painter!
My prototype photo I'm using:
(http://www.barp.ca/rail/bn/3019.jpg)
I have some questions to ask:
1. Can someone find some more pictures of 3019 if possible?
2. Is there a place I can get a new nose, or will I have to alter the curent one?
That's all for this forum, I'm off the the Horns & Whistles board to seek infromation on what horn that is, if anyone knows, don't hesitate to tell me.
Joshua
Well lets get you some pics to go with the order. ;) http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=72890 hmmmmm... must have had a paint job. http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=17500 that looks like yours :). i can only find those :( hope this helps :)
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/bn/bn3019adb.jpg
jet,
the bn 3019 in the first photo you linked to is not the same one as in the other photo you linked to.
bn 3019, built 12-1966 as cb&q 189, rebuilt around 1990 to gp40e 3516, renumbered to bnsf 3015. this is the bn 3019 that santa fe buff wants to model.
the other locomotive is actually, from the date of the photo (1999) bnsf 3019. this locomotive was built in 2-1968 as cb&q 634, to bn 3034, rebuilt around 1990 to gp40e, 3520, then renumbered to bnsf 3019. most bnsf locomotives that were renumbered did not get repainted right away leaving this one in bn paint. as a matter of fact, on the cab side below the number you can see bnsf in white.......
I have a couple of questions...
1. Why does GG's photo show is without a strobe and with marker lights, was that BEFORE they patched over the lights? Was that how CB&Q had it? If so, that means GG's was when BN just painted the locomotive.
2. What type of antenna is that on BN 3019? It looks like it go bent after getting it's patch.
3. So I'm actually modeling a GP40e?
Joshua
EDIT: Here's a theory: BN obtained the unit from CB&Q with the marker lights at the top, and the regular lights nose mounted (GG's picture). Later, they added the strobe, but the antenna got bend/damaged (Jet's second photo) so BN removed it, leaving it with the strobe only. (My photo.) Can anyone look up the photo's dates? I'll try mine, Jet, you try yours, and GG, you do whatever... You find stuff out pretty good, same with Jeff.
Wow, looks like this might be a team effort...
EDIT: Theroy part 1: PROVEN!
CB&Q GP40 No. 978 with MARKER LIGHTS!
(http://www.mugii.com/john/Pictures/SE_Iowa_1970s/CB&Q%20GP40%20978.jpg)
Double post:
Another part supporting, BN did have the antenna with the strobe, photo was likely taken in the 1980s. (Note the BN E8 unit for Metra.)
(http://www.morscher.com/rr/1978/19781125_16.jpg)
Joshua
cb&q 979 is a gp35. cb&q had 40 gp40s, 170-189 became bn 3000-3019.
cb&q 620-639 became bn 3020-3039.
the unit in your original photo is a gp40, before they were rebuilt to gp40e.
in the mid to late 1980s, bn started painting their locomotives in a "whiteface" paint, like the bnsf 3019. your locomotive wears the earlier bn paint. all gp40e's got the whiteface paint as they were rebuilt. note that they probably all got the headlight raised to between the numberbpards at that time as well.
so.....your photo would have had to have been taken in the period when bn started to standardize on things like the strobe, and removal of the oscillatiing headlight between the number boards, and the time they were rebuilt to gp40e. i would guess your photo is from around 1980.
the antenna you mentioned is a "firecracker" style antenna which was very common of locomotives around the 1980 era. and yes, the antenna could be bent back if needed.
Thanks, the story behind the era helps...
Thank you again.
Joshua
EDIT:
GG,
My Alaska unit has a small oval already one the engineer's side placed under the radiators.
That means its a GP40-2... I think you mean the fireman's (left) side of the locomotive.
No, it's on the engineer's side.
Joshua
How many non dynamic fans are there on the rear of the unit?
3 fans.
Joshua
Okay, so we've determined it is a GP40-2, not a GP38-2. You should be fine with a GP40-2. Only REALLY picky people will notice, and they might not because it will probably be moving.
Should I fill in the sight hole?
Joshua
EDIT: I was thinink of sandind down the sight hole edging and filling it in with puddy, then sanding down that.
i would think it would be easier to buy a gp40, and spend your energy on detailing one of those. or, alternately trying to model one of bn's gp40-2s.
if you do wish to fill in the hole, then yes, body putty and some careful sanding is the way to go.
http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=191571&nseq=0
note that the headlight is in between the number boards, but it has a lower gyralite mounted in a notch in the nose......
That's okay, I like a good project. I think I found a proper cab:
http://shop.cannonandco.net/product.sc?categoryId=9&productId=57
Now, would this type of putty work?
http://www.testors.com/product/0/3511X/_/Contour_Putty_58oz
Joshua
yes, that would work. i've used that in the past to fill in holes when i removed roofwalks offf cars.
Great, the local Hobby Lobby has a whole tub of those putty tubes, no shipping or online ordering!
I was looking for more of a physical comparison, but I couldn't find one. So I continued to clean out my room. I was skimming through locomotives, habit makes me say the locomotives model when I pick it up and set it down to keep track... I said GP40, and stopped. I forgot I have my Bachmann GP40! So I compared them, and yes, I do have to fill in the sight glass. Also, there are two grab iron templets on the -2's nose, but none molded on the GP40's. A looked over my prototype photo I posted and it shows that there are no nose-mounted grabs, so I have some more sanding to do.
Still waiting for parts to come in, explains the $3.98 shipping! :D
Joshua
best of luck on that one.
my current project is an n&w t6 switcher, i have photos i took of a restored one on the western maryland scenic.
after that i think i'll do a couple of new haven locomotives.
Yeah, PARTS CAME IN! Also, M.T.H. Trains sent me a catalogue for no reason, it kills me, everything is over $100 and I only have $5... :'( The J class really kills me, which is why I'm glad Bachmann makes an affordable one! :) (See, I had a plan on incorporating Bachmann in this post.)
Anyway, I need to find a No. 70 drill, and I already know where to find a BLMA No. 80 drill. Everything seems straight forward, and I'm wondering if anyone can find me a 1.5 micro bulb. I want to drill out my strobe and light it up, the directions told me about that, and it interests me. My dad is willing to buy me something for good grades on the final report card. So a simple part is good. My stupid head order two locomotive air brake things thinking it was one per quantity. Guess what, I now have 4 locomotive air brake hoses... Looks like someones getting more detail. :P Also, Cannon & Company sent me a batch of 12 sunshades! :o
The MU cables are designed to be mounted in a group, having a realistically detailed panel holding all 3 cables, but my body is designed to allow 3 separate cables. So I'm just going to sand that down and drill for the nob that comes out the back of the panel and glue it in place, after painting of course.
Joshua
try here for the drills
http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTGY/drill-bit-twist (http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTGY/drill-bit-twist)
nice loco yampa bob , i love my sd-40-2 bn loco . i can also pull my sante fa stuff with it and not feel bad .
Huh? Wrong topic?
Anyway, thanks pdlethbridge.
I'll look into thoses. I'm currently look at the Highball Graphics website for some extra parts. I was thinking on a Cannon step-up light. I also found treads and step-ups for an Atheran GP40-2. I'm already thinking on using the Grain-o-Rice bulb. I checked, it's a batch of 8 sunshades actually.
Anyone know where I can get a decoder for this GP40-2, perfeably with sound capadiblity or can be wiried to it.
Joshua
here is a good place.
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/SearchResults.asp (https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/SearchResults.asp)
Thanks I forgot try www.modeltrainstuff.com I'll have a look around.
Joshua
Please excuse the double post. I hate doing this, but it's the only way to bump up the topic so I can get attention so I can calm a few problems. Okay, I was looking for some decoders... How about these for an Athearn DC locomotive, with a smaller shell, I was thinking on mounting everything on it's side, so that it might fit...
Main Decoder: http://www.digitrax.com/prd_mobdec_dh123d.php
Additional sound?: http://www.digitrax.com/prd_mobdec_sfx0416.php
Joshua
I have used the 123 almost a dozen times in athearn and lifelike diesels. They have interchangable parts and the same set up. Very easy to work on but make sure to isolate the motor brush from the frame on the bottom. It is okay to flip the clips so the one with the fingers that touch the frame is on top.
Thank you. I have some more problems. I need help in placement and installation of my parts.
Okay, here I go:
Where do I mount the MU Stand? How about the receptacle? How do I get the air hose to attach to the Athearn locomotive? I need to know where to cut. I would love to scan the parts, and show you with Photobucket, but my printer is broken, thanks to the computer. The Drivers won't install, and it's not the printer's or the need of updates fault.
I still need more parts. I need these so far:
- Details for fuel tank, please consult my prototype photo.
- Treads for the unit, already found, made by Cannon and Company.
- Step photo-etched parts for detailed step-ups.
- Drill bits, yes, it's money related.
- Putty, don't worry, got the place.
- Pen Vise drill.
- The decoders.
- EMD Grabs for rear, front, and that round one behind the last radiator fan.
- Styrene sheet.
- BN Green
- Engine Black
- Airbrush (preferred.)
- Glazed windows for EMD cab.
- Running lights, found.
- Powder Pastels
- Dullcoat
And a load of more stuff... (I keep finding more stuff by looking at the picture to buy.) I just hope I get that paper-boy job, I already filed out the application...
Joshua