Thanks Joe,I will file that away for future use.Layout is at least a month away from rail traffic.

I don't know if I'm just not looking in the right places or what but I can not seem to find a minimum radius for the Bachmann Forney.I'm not worried about mainline radius as we are using standard 4' NRAK modules,but we may have some tight curves on the branch lines.

Have you checked with Bachmann parts? If they have them I would suggest buying several as they do seem to have a habit of getting lost.

Since you bought through Amazon it must be a new set.In would contact Bachmann first then return the loco for repair or replacement.

To my way of thinking logging in Michigan means Shays.They were invented here and their main use was logging here at least in the LP.

I am however not familiad with logging in the UP so they may have used different locos.Even though I am a modern modeler I will admit to liking the geared locos.

Which flat car kit are you refering to?

IHC's steam was mostly made by Mehano.Their diesels might have sucked but the steam was top notch.I bought a new Mikado because a friend bought a used one that ran so well it was a no brainer to buy the new one.

The only reason I no longer own it is that it kept falling off my N scale track after I switched scales.

I'll buy one to start if Bachmann does this.

If you think On30 is dead or dieing I suggest you visit the On30 forum on Railroad line forums.I think you will be surprized at just how active this scale really is.

I also agree with Larry the RR Line On30 forum is a good place to dicuss On30.As for the On30 Conspiracy goes I gave up, on those idiots a couple years back.

Yahoo is definately a bad joke.

Your powerpacks should have 4 connections 2 are for track power and are variable.The other 2 are a fixed voltage and are the AC or accessory terminals these are where you connect the turnouts.Using one pack for the track only and one for accessories is a good idea in my book unless you have a high output power pack.

I've had more than a few Athearns with bent frames some of them were brand new.You can straighten the frame with just your hands,you don't need to strip the unit any further than removing the shell to do this .To straighten the frame grasp the unit in one hand at the motor fuel tank and apply a downward pressure on the end just behind the coupler mount,Do this in stages so as to not over bend the frame.

It is really helpful if you can view the frame straight on at eye level setting on track.

Have you looked at any 4'x8' track plans? They are quite adaptable will a little more track to fill you 5'x10' space.You could also expand on a smaller layout plan too.

Martha,you might try adding some weight to the caboose to see if that helps.I would recomend that you put it as close to the ends of the car as you can get it.I would also suggest that you add equal amounts a little at a time till you obtain your goal.One last tip check to make sure the trucks are not contacting the underframe or the caboose steps.

LifeLike no longer makes model railroad items.Walthers bought out that division of the company at least 5 years ago.