You have a really good list there but i see a gap in times and locations. You have a lot on the east coast and some in between. I would like to add anything from the TMER&L and the south shore line. I am aware of a 3d printing company that makes HO and N scale models of the north shore steel silver liners and one or two steeple cabs. The only problem I see with modeling inturban or street car lines is that it's not all that popular. So i think that make parts, motor assemblies, detail parts, decals, paints and maybe kits would be enough to hold most of us through. As MR. Bachmann would say we only put out models that would be really popular to pay for the tooling required to make the models.

It's been some time since I posted something on this post but I have made some progress on L-8. After adding weight to the engine to have very little effect before making a bow in the plastic frame. I started building a metal frame in my metal shop class, the deck floor made from 14ga sheet steel and members of 16ga will make up the body. I was able to find 12-18 volt motors of off ebay that fit really nice between the wheels. Working directly off my first model and the original loco is makeing this job faster then before. however I am making some improvement from my first model. 

hi CRB

In terms of track lubrication it's not needed on the main rail. However on switch points if you add any you will need to us some lube on those to keep them moving. At the East Troy Trolley Museum I have 7 miles of track to look after with 10 crossings and 16 switches. for use running a train every week keeps the rail clean but on modeling woodland scenics makes a great track cleaning solvent. to keep a steady flow of power in the rail make railbonds or screw the track plate joint together. On my Aristo track they all have holes at each end of the joint plate and i think they all do, but screw them together for better power flow. Unlike real rail you won't burn the joint out when you have a short, at east troy we run 600 volt dc for our trolleys and interurbans.

hope the helpful hints help you enjoying your hobby

For you track bed the crushed rock dust will be a problem for long periods of time, you might try wetting it down to settle the dust. Being a real Gandy Dancer at a museum crushed rock depending on the region your in is used on the right of way. How ever that were dealing with a small size of rail you might want to elevate the track a inch or two. What I did with my track is raise it of the ground using crescent moon blocks from home depot. You will also have a problem with the brass rail in a few years. the brass will turn green if not cleaned properly and won't work well for electrical flow. I have stainless steel rail that has been out side for three years. It's held up through the tough Wisconsin winter's with little problems.

Once you find the issue with your engine and it runs nice and smoothly you will enjoy the hobby.

My best guess for the engine is that the motor coil needs to be cleaned. Since you cleaned the wheels and the power pick ups the problem will be with the wiring or the motor.

bachmann has done a really good job with supplying LS models. The trend of modeling at the moments is of elders and a small percentage of young ones, also the new generation is so technically oriented with cell phones that they never venture farther then a little screen. I see this every time at the east troy trolley, as soon as they get on board the train phones come out and they zone out. So the fact that I see is that these kids are the ones that can keep company's like bachmann running.

What we should be doing besides asking for more fine spectrum models, Is also to have the base of modelers that are interested in the scale and the hobby. Every year for the last 7-8 years at our local high school for breakfast with Santa. A group of modelers and myself put up a train display with Ho scale and a small demo of other scales. Get the interest of our next gens and the market will return.

Modeling is a better hobby then watching a screen and you get more out of it. As much as i'd like to see more lovely spec cars it's a two way street, we have to supply the demand and bachmann will supply the models.

If you want to look  for more exciting locomotives look at www.steamlocomotive.com they have just about every loco from when it was last updated.

I also have a really good book that's easy to find from KALMBACH cyclopedia steam locomotives volume 1. the tender on the 4000's is 45' long and 10' 10" wide and the engine is 85' 10" long and the same width of the tender. There is a project that UP has taken that every rail buff wants to see. 4014 is in the shop to become operational for service.

History is such a great learning tool.

Hi punkin

In lighting your classification laterns on the side of the caboose. You will need to drill a hole for the wire to go through. There are a few companys that make them ready to plug. Bachmann has done a good job on placing them on there light cabooses. If your caboose has a interior you'll need to hide the wire.

this youtube channel has a lot of great reviews to help you out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0cR3o4crec

To somewhat answer your question you will need metal wheels on your caboose. It will travel better and have a little more weight. To wire the lights you'll need a pick up brush that contacts the wheel on the inside, be in mind that this will require a spring or other tension to keep it to the wheel. You will also need weight to prevent the wheels from sparking wildly. When I built the trucks for my scratch L-8 stepple cab loco, the pick up was a brass bar held to the wheel by force. I had to add 2 real rail spikes for weight so the wheels didn't spark on the track. once you get the pick ups working you can power anything of the voltage of your transformer.

I would sujest tacking battery power to track pick up since it would lower the amp draw, and be simpler to build plus you can turn of the lights or certain lights during the day. The lights on the outside of the caboose with red green lenses are classification lights. If your lights are hallow inside then you just have to drill a hole through and place your light.

Good luck with your project

Is this a bachmann 2-6-0 locomotive or another manufacture. Since your motor is working the power pick ups could be shot and or the electrical board. If there are no pick ups you could have a RC control loco.

Any more info you can share with us then we would have a better idea on what you have, and trying to fix.

choosing knuckles is relatively easy it's the mounting of knuckles to all match the same high. Bachmann likes to us a low coupler, meaning it's closer to the rail head. The other company's are either NMRA standard or real close. You can find a knuckle gauge at your local hobby shop they also work for display buffers. Since your running inside you don't have to worry about grades on your line. If you have pets you'll have debris but that's easily movable.

Enjoy yourself with the hobby and we always love to answer any questions.

In earlier post a gentleman turned two 4-6-0 chassis into a 1:20 beyer garratt. looking on the web you can make a garratt out of any wheel arrangement from 0-4-0+0-4-0 to 4-8-4+4-8-4 ad60 garratt. Thou i would agree to remodeling the shell to fit 1:20.3 modeled of the white pass and Yukon or any narrow gauge enines of that wheel arrangement.

My old bachmann 0-4-0 had skates but that was a old model i received one christmas.

Hello new member in the grand scale of model railroading. We have all jumped on the flat car at one time and know what your going through. For what you are looking for on track will be easy to find and since your running inside cleaning won't be a big problem. The 2 locos you picked are up to you, do you want the style size and decoration of the 1:20.3 4-4-0 or the 4-6-0, price will vary between the 2. I love the larger scale of 1:20.3 narrow gauge that allow me to scratch build rolling stock that aren't available. Your power pack for track voltage you can get a simple little control from bachmann or go to trainmaster controls. For rolling stock a line of passenger cars and a caboose are a nice idea and you have plenty to pic from. A starter set would fit your needs well. I have a 60' oval of track that works well and 2 locos a climax and a 2-8-0 both have served me very well.

railroading is a great hobby and help mentally and physically, enjoy what you can do with the hobby. if you want to go more find a local large scale model club or some friends that are close by that love trains.

as promised before on my last post here is a you tube video of my scratch bobber caboose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLxSKKKOBck

I have not seen many 00z models or even people trying it out. figuring that the track gauge is 16" in ho it would work. the next problem is the size of the models magnifying glass anyone. however finding mechanisms for your engines will be easy. for your rolling stock you can try resign casting, it's easy to use and can be used really efficiently and cheaply.

good luck with your trial run and plans for the arlesdale narrow gauge.