I built the Cannondale station in N a few years ago. It's a very nice kit and pretty easy to build. Here is a picture from my old layout. It is on the new layout but the area is not scenicked yet. As you can see I gave it a beat up and weathered look.

Quote from: GoCanes on January 22, 2012, 09:34:55 AM
Nice  work, Joe.

The Bachmann magnets work great under EZ track, BTW, with EZ Mate magnetic couplers and my Micro Trains cars with magnetic couplers.

(I have converted all my older bachmann cars with the roller freight trucks that include magnetic EZ Mates)

I just saw some Atlas N True Track up close, and I have to say it looks GREAT!  The code 65 track is nice, and the mottled ballast look of the roadbed is really something.

My EZ track main line, though, has worked just fine.  Looks good ballasted and weathered, and no problems with the turnouts (even the transition to snap track for the sidings and spurs is smooth).

I have never gotten magnets to work reliable so I use a Rix Pix and uncouple manually. The Atlas TruTrack looks great, though I prefer gray ballast. Track here in the Hudson Valley uses gray ballast (it's CSX, formerly New York Central) so gray looks better to me. The code 65 rail definitely looks better than the code 80. If Atlas ever offers more track sections and switches it could be an excellent product.

Quote from: Albert in N on January 20, 2012, 09:20:08 PM
Nice work, Country Joe!  Like you, I also use Kato UniTrack.  UniTrack (as well as Atlas) offers magnetic uncouplers, vehicle traffic road crossings, turnouts that work, as well as competitive pricing.  Previously, I used Atlas but track cleaning and dust were issues on my ballasted track over cork roadbed.  Then, I tried Bachmann EZ Track, but was disappointed with derailments over the sharp standard turnouts, as well as lack of magnet uncouplers, etc.  Yes, the E-Z Track derailments were using Bachmann locomotives equipped with Bachmann's dummy knuckle couplers.  Now, I rarely run trains with the dummy knuckle couplers, since have mostly converted to MicroTrains magnetic working couplers.  Even though I run trains, I sometimes like switching cars without picking them up by hand.  Attend a train show and watch display layouts and then decide.

Thanks Albert. In my experience Kato track rarely needs cleaning. I'm not really sure if it's a different alloy that inhibits corrosion or that my layouts are now build in cleaner environments. In the past, rails seemed to oxidize more and needed a lot of cleaning.

I use a Rix Pix uncoupling tool and uncouple manually. I have never had much luck with the magnets. I mounted one on a small flashlight so I can see. I just slip it between the couplers and twist and the cars are uncoupled. In the past I got the magnets to work fairly reliably, but the most important word there is "fairly". I may try electromagnetic uncouplers some day.

You can try a pink eraser. They are soft and do no damage to the model. I have never tried to remove paint in a two tone scheme but the eraser is very effective in removing lettering. I may work for you. If it doesn't, you don't have much to lose. The erasers are very cheap and will do no damage. Just be careful not to break any small details.

Quote from: GoCanes on January 19, 2012, 03:20:09 PM

Quote from: Country Joe on January 19, 2012, 02:07:03 PM
I use Kato Unitrack on my layout. Kato's Unijoiners are far more robust than either Atlas or Bachmann joiners. Kato offers many more track sections and curve radii than either of it's competitors. Kato makes #4 and #6 switches, a double crossover and just came out with a wye switch. They also make a few bridges and other accessories, like a road crossing that can be used for single or multiple tracks.

Kato makes the most complete line of track. You can build just about any trackplan you can think of with it. The only way to have more flexibility is to go with flex track.

Joe, are you ballasting the  Kato stuff?  I saw they sell ballast that is identical to the look of their roadbed.  Might look better if the raodbed had some ballast along it's edges to give it a more natural, uneven look?

I started my current layout in December 2010. The previous one was from 2006-2010. The scenery was pretty far along but I hadn't ballasted yet. I like to ballast last, after all the scenery is done. I make my own ballast mixture with Woodland Scenics fine ballast. I use gray and mix in a little black and buff. I don't have a formula and just do it by eye. I have a picture of my T-Trak module and a friend's as well. He made the same mixture as I did and ballasted the sides. I ballasted between the tracks but not the sides yet. I will try to attach a couple of pictures.

This is my module with ballast between the tracks but not on the sides. I still have a little more scenery work to do:



This is my friend's module. The sides have been ballasted:



Hopefully you'll be able to see the ballast.

I use Kato Unitrack on my layout. Kato's Unijoiners are far more robust than either Atlas or Bachmann joiners. Kato offers many more track sections and curve radii than either of it's competitors. Kato makes #4 and #6 switches, a double crossover and just came out with a wye switch. They also make a few bridges and other accessories, like a road crossing that can be used for single or multiple tracks.

Kato makes the most complete line of track. You can build just about any trackplan you can think of with it. The only way to have more flexibility is to go with flex track.

Thanks for the review Tony.

If it works on DC but not DCC, you may be using the wrong address. New engines come with loco address set to 3. Sometimes the simplest things are overlooked. If someone programmed the address to something else a reset will bring it back to 3. Good luck.

I think there is a mistake in the argument. The price difference between a DCC on board engine and a DCC ready engine is not $40. The GP7 has a MSRP of $110. If it were offered in a DCC ready version it might be $100 MSRP. Then again, if Bachmann had to make 2 versions they might be $115 and $105 respectively. This means that DCC on board really costs $5-10 more per engine, not $40. Look at the price of Atlas, Kato and other DCC ready engines. The MSRP is in the $110 range. Bachmann is giving us DCC on board for very little more. Most of the price increase is detailing and reliability. Older, non Spectrum engines were not the best runners and more toys than models. New standard line engines are excellent runners and far more detailed. They don't have the detail of a Spectrum model, but they are good scale models none the less.

Comparing Bachmann DCC on board to new DCC ready engines from other manufacturers shows that Bachmann is offering DCC on board for just about the same price as other MFG's DCC ready. You have to compare new to new since older engines, even if they are new in that they have been on shelves and never run, cost less to manufacture at the time they were made. Also, if they are new and sitting on a dealer's shelf, he will offer them at a very attractive price to get rid if them and stock those shelves with more popular products.

Look at the new boxcars. They are very nice models, far more detailed than those offered a short time ago, but also more expensive. Some might say, give me Rapido couplers, doors that do not open, and less detail because that's what I can afford. If Bachmann made two versions, they would each cost more and when model railroaders saw them the overwhelming majority would choose the more detailed model for a few bucks more.

I think Bachmann is headed in the right direction and is offering some great models for a reasonable price.

That's not an easy question to answer. It's like asking what is the best flavor ice cream. An NCE Power Cab or a Digitrax Zephyr will be more than enough to run the layout you are planning. They are relatively inexpensive (around $160 each). The best advice is to try the units if you can. Sometimes you can test drive them at train shows. Of the 2 beginner sets I would go with NCE, but that is a preference. I just don't care for Digitrax. Others love Digitrax. The Bachmann Dynamis is a good system and wireless from the start, but it's more expensive. The EZ Command is VERY limited and only suited to the smallest layouts that will never expand.

I have a Lenz Set 100. I find it very easy to use. Is it best for you? Maybe, but then again maybe not. Try out as many as you can. A little experience is worth far more than a bunch of advice.

Quote from: sd45elect2000 on August 08, 2011, 11:17:56 AM
I still would love to see a nice 4-8-4 mechanism that would be adaptable to a variety of boiler shapes (like an S-2 Milw engine). Different tenders and boilers could make dozens of 4-8-4s based on the same mechanism.

With all the new heavyweight passenger cars coming out from bachmann and micro trains it would be nice to have a bigger passenger engine too , I'm thinking 4-6-4 (Milw F-6)

On the Diesel side ALCo S switchers and FM H-10-44 switchers.

Baldwin road switchers would be awesome as well !

Randy

I agree, it should be easy to produce a good variety of engines based on the same mechanism. I would think Bachmann could sell a lot more engines just by offering more roadnames and cab numbers.

Quote from: the Bach-man on August 03, 2011, 11:18:12 PM
Dear All,
The car is an AAR 1937 standard steel boxcar, original plans for which are in Mr. Riley's collection.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

Thanks for the info Bach-man. These look like they will be outstanding cars. I really like the direction Bachmann is heading.

You can mix track from different manufacturers, but keep in mind that most N scale track is code 80. Atlas true track is code 65 and Atlas and Micro Engineering also have code 55. I think EZ track will connect to plain code 80 track with no problem. By plain, I mean track that doesn't come with roadbed attached. I don't think you have to cut the connectors off. You just need to use cork or foam roadbed under the track to bring it up to the height of EZ track. Kato Unitrack can be used in one of two ways. Kato makes a track section with a Unijoiner on one end and an ordinary joiner on the other. Or, you can remove the Unijoiner and replace it with an ordinary joiner. Again, any code 80 track without roadbed will mate up, and no damage is done to the Unitrack. Pull of the ordinary joiner and put the Unijoiner back on and the track is as good as new.

Connecting roadbed track to roadbed track is not as easy, such as EZ Track to Unitrack, but you can use a piece of non roadbed track between them with no problems. You can even use the code 65 or 55 track, but it takes a little more modification to get it to work.

The new GP-7 runs fine, but flywheels would only make it better. The RS-3 sounds like it's going to be a very nice engine.

Why does Bachmann make so few road names and only one cab number per road? I think they could sell many more engines and cars by painting and lettering them for different roads. They also seem to offer the same roads and numbers for years. I have been waiting for a New York Central 2-8-0 for years.

I'm not complaining, just wondering. Bachmann makes NYC models. I have the ten wheeler, the GP7 is on order, and I will be ordering the RS3 and doodlebug. It just seems they could sell more by offering more roads.

Thanks.