Hi!

These washers are located between the two chassis halves where the screw goes through in order to separate the two polarities.
Regards
Mathi

Hi!

Find out what decoder brand you have before you via CV8.
First of all I would reset that decoder to factory values and then start it at standard adr. 3.
If it doesn't run check the installation and the motor.
light direction can be changed via CV33=1 and 34=2 which is forward and rear light. You can switch the numbers to reverse the lighting.

Regards
Mathi

Well, I've some experience with shorts on my 4-8-4Js and several Heavy Mountains.
The varnished insulation of the wires is sensitive to bending them while servicing the locos and can cause shorts. So I grabbed from my wife a not longer used flacon of nail enamel and gave the wires an additional coating and go figure-----------all occasional shorts are history.

Best regards
Mathi

Hi!

To force more tension to the wipers I glued some peace of  insulation remains which are stripped of copper wires. These are "tube shaped" and springy enough to support the wiper contact.

Regards
Mathi

Hi!

If you disassemble your Bachmann or spectrum engine with the newer can motor for maintenance or so keep an eye on the black plastic plates which hold the motor. These plates have two or three studs in which the holes in the motor fit to hold it in place.
These studs can break of the plate easily if you use to much force to fit it all into the two frame halves.
They will break of and fall into the motor. This can cause the motor to block and damage.
Affected to this are all new can motors used in engines by Bachmann US and even FarishBachmann UK.
These studs are not very stable and can be mistreated actually when assembled in the factory the first time.
I just wanted to let you know that, so be careful!

Regards
Mathi

Oh I'm so sorry!

I've forgotten to check my post.
A reset is to be done by writing the 8 into CV8.

Hi!

Can you write or read any other CVs?
What about a decoder reset? CV8 to will do the job, then start up again with programming the adress.

Regards
Mathi

Well,
I cured this problem with some small peaces of foam glued under the fingers on the board in order to provide more pressure to these fingers,
and this worked flawlessly since!

Regards
Mathi

Hi!

If you are talking about the Light Mountain you are right if you have the older version. You can't find a board in the tender to solder the decoder on because this version has a gap in the locos body under the shell to connect a decoder to. Just the latest version has this device in the tender, recognizable by the wires between loco and tender.
I'm really sure the decoder you've ordered won't fit into the space in the loco because is will be too large.

Regards
Mathi

Hi!

Those decoders are wrong, they are useless because there is no partner in the locos tender for a 8-pin-plug. I don't mention the size anyway.
What you need is a wired decoder to solder on the 7 points in the tenders pcb. This is easily done if you have a small iron tip.
You can use any small decoder rather better than the Bachmanns. I've some DZ123 and 125 in my mountains and they'r doing a fine job.

Regards
Mathi

Hi!

These engines with a decoder are able to run fine on DC-track.
On the other hand why don't you order an brand new DC 2-8-0 decoder ready:

http://www.trainworldonline.com/search.php?bymanufacturer=176&checkbox=120&bycategory=91&x=39&y=8&PAGEN_1=2

Regards
Mathi

Well, this link ist not working, so you have to choose N and you will find some cheap 2-8-0 on page 2.

Hi!
The wired decoder for the"old" version LM has to be connected to wires and placed in a notch of the locos body under the shell.
The new version has a DCC-ready tender which is connected to the loco by wires similar to the HM. Inside the tender are seven solder points on the pcb for the decoder wires.
It is not a big deal to decoderize both versions although the latest version is done in a few minutes.
A DZ125 is very good choice for these models.

Regard
Mathi

Hi and thanks so far, I did it!

With a small skewdriver under the loco between fueltank and bottom with a little prying and levering and it comes off easyly, no mars whatsoever.
Next step is to switch the blueish LEDs to warm white.

Regards
Mathi

Yeah mots,

I have this diagram and it shows the nubs which hold the shell as usual with other locos either.
My problem is how and where to pull, pry or lift to get the shell off wit not damaging the details.
The shell on mine sits so tight and snug.

Regards
Mathi

Hello friends,

I have no idea how to get the shell off. The diagram shows the wellknown four nubs on the frame but I've no clou how and where to pull or to pry without harming the body.
I used the forum search but sadly found no help.
So can someone help me back on track, please!

Best regards
Mathi