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Topics - Howard240

#1
Large / Plug'n'play battery hookup
January 26, 2016, 08:42:02 PM
I'm using a 11.1 v battery in my Climax with Plug'n'play board and Crest receiver.  I assume the battery hooks into Batt ! connector. Is this correct?

Batt 1 says 18v and Batt 2 says 6v.  I'm finding two battery inputs a bit confusing.
Thanks for any help.
#2
Large / Another Climax question
January 14, 2016, 03:49:01 AM
In the Climax film on Bachmann's website it shows a fan in the lid of the bunker.  Is this included with all models or just the full DCC/sound model.  I did not receive one and wonder if I should  go to the dealer and ask for it.  If it's only needed for DCC use I won't bother.
Thanks
#3
Large / Climax model sound question
January 01, 2016, 03:50:05 PM
Hi.  I am considering getting a Climax model and have questions about the sound options.
     1.  With the factory sound/dcc model, will the sound still work if the plug and play is used for radio control battery power (Crest) and is there room for the Crest battery pack in the tender?
     2.  I assume the regular model just has the chuff sound installed.  Does the plug and play give any sound options or just use the receiver sound (again Crest) or the sound of an added sound card?

Thank you for any help and Happy New Year.
#4
I have a new Annie chassis I am attaching to a standard 6-4-0- body.  In the standard 4-6-0 the headlamp is attached to the smoke switch and then soldered to the motor.  The Annie chassis has two screw terminals.  Am I right that all I need to do is attach the wires to those terminals?

Question 2 - all the wires leading to those terminals are painted black.  Is there a reason for this?  I can tell which is which be the pick up wires, but I find the all black confusing.

Question 3 - My goal is to turn this loco into RC battery operation per instructions in Garden Railways Apr '14.  I converted one Annie and love it.  To conver the regular tender to an Annie I'll need to add wiring and the reverse light.  What kind of diode do I need to do that?  And what watt bulb is appropriate?

Question 4 - My existing Annie has a dim headlamp.  When I got it (used) I thought the lamp didn't work at all.  When I did the conversion it started working - somewhat.  Does it sound like I need to replace the bulb?  I can get the lamp body detached from the bracket, but see no way to get the bulb out or a new one in.  I haven't tried taking things apart to check wiring as I'm hesitant to mess up the complex drive gears (my new one has simple gears).

Sorry, I couldn't come up with 16 more questions to make 20 questions   :-)
#5
Large / Improved pilot for 4-6-0?
May 29, 2015, 03:54:21 AM
I read an ad somewhere (Garden Rail Mag?) saying the new 4-6-0 has an improved pilot.  How is it different and is it possible to buy a replacement pilot?

Our outdoor rails have a few dips and twists that cause the pilot to derail, esp. around curves and/or switches.  I've put a weight on the front axel and that helps, but not everywhere.  The best solution, obviously is to repair the track, but my Annie is the only loco that has the problem.

If the new pilot has a shorter wheelbase it seems like it would ride over such places much better.  Any ideas will be appreciated.

Also, thanks to everybody who responded to my voltage question.
#6
Large / Motor voltage
May 27, 2015, 03:47:33 AM
Can someone please  tell me the voltage rating of the motor in the 4-6-0 Anniversary?  thank you.
#7
Large / Forney Size
November 01, 2014, 04:05:07 AM
Hi. Can someone please tell me the dimensions of the Spectrum Forney?  I'm interested particularly in the overall length and the length of the wheelbase.  Height and width would be nice also.  I'm sure it's on the website, but I can't seem to find it.  Perhaps someone can advise me how to find that info.
  Thank you for any help.
#8
Large / old 2-4-2- with broken drive axle
October 31, 2014, 10:31:18 PM
The axle sheared at the square pin that joins the two wheels.  I've drilled out one side from the hole on the outside of the wheel (the one with squard shaft for the plastic drive gear).  I think if I drill out the other side fromn where the break is I will end up with a round hole instead of a square one.

Has anybody fixed one of these with a round pin?  Will it hold up?  I'm sure I can get the 90 offset at least close and glue it all together.  Qny advice will be welcome.. Thanks.
#9
I've posted on this topic before and have a couple more questions.  I have the new Crest receiver with sound, and have made most of the connections per Mr. Carnelos' first article in GRM.  Details of the P8 soundboard are different from the Crest with sound receiver.  I have, though, removed the Bachmann soundboard in the tender.

My goal for sound is to have chuff, bell and whistle.  I won't be using smoke or any other sounds at this time.

I will be asking these questions of the Crest people, but I thought there might be details particular to the Annie that I can get answered here.

First question is about the chuff connection.  The chuff plug has two black wires and one white.  Crest instructions show one black and the white wire as chuff going to a reed switch.  

Can I assume I would solder these two directly to the "sound" wires from the loco? (they indicate white as the common wire).

The instructions then show the second black wire as "whistle" but say nothing about where to connect it.  I assume the bell and whistle are programed into the board -  are any other connections required?

I'll appreciate any input you may have.  Thank you, Howard
#10
Bill Canelos' article is about using the Crest Revolution transmitter/receiver in converting an Annie to battery power. He writes about cutting the black and red wires that connect the rear headlight.  He instructs to cut the black wire leaving the resistor with the light.  No problem there.  He then shows cutting the red wire in front of the shrink-wrapped connection.  However when he shows the final wiring that piece is still there.  In my tender there are shrink wrapped sections on both wires - I don't know if there is a resistor in the red wire.   

Is there a resistor in the red wire also?  If so does it get eliminated or kept with the light.  It seems that if there is no resistor in the red wire it doesn't matter where the wire is cut.

Has anybody done this conversion who can answer the question?

Also, has anybody done this conversion using the newer Crest Revolution that includes sound.  I have a question about connections to the new system.

Thank you anybody who can answer.
#11
Large / Repair of old radio controlled 4-6-0
September 10, 2012, 02:14:55 PM
I have an old radio controlled 10 wheeler.  When I got it it didn't work.  There was power in the loco and power in the transmitter, but the two didn't connect.  Some time later I tried again and it did work, but since the antenna was broken the range was only about 10'.  Later it didn't work again, and hasn't since despite power to both devices.

I took it to a shop dealing in radio control models.  They replaced the antenna and determined that the frequency it operates on is 27.095 mhz.  It still didn't work, and they had no transmitters in that range.

My question is: 
---Is it possible to purchase another brand of transmitter in the 27.095 range and make it work?
I will have to travel some distance to a store that sells them and try to find one that works.  It seems the simpler and cheaper option.
---Or am I better off buying a new transmitter AND receiver and replacing the one on board the loco?
I'm not confident in doing the electronics myself, so that option can get pricy fast, and it is an old train.

I'd appreciate any advice or experience any of you have.
Thank you.
#12
Large / Modify G scale 4-6-0
October 20, 2011, 10:01:35 PM
Is it possible to modify or change the salt and whistle domes on a basic 4-6-0 locomotive.  I have wood-burner type domes and want to model coal era.  I know the stack is changable - are the domes?  Thanks for any help. 
from a newbie