Rich - I installed a Tsunami TSU-1000 in my recently "narrowed tender body" of the B'mann Mogul.  It works fine.  If your tender is stock,  there is plenty of room.  The only modifications will be to cut off the plastic "pillars" the stock decoder was mounted on.  Use double sided tape to secure board.  Do not cut off the "pillar" that holds the rear light in position.   You will have to cut the LED for the rear light off the OEM board.  Then mount the board to the "pillar".  You will need 2 3300 ohm resistors for the lights, as the Tsunami board is set up for 12v bulbs.  I mounted these resistors up inside the top rear of the tender.  You will be very pleased with the type and quality of sounds.  Good luck, Dave

Almost forgot, you may want to put a small amount of glue around the speaker rim, as the 2 metal clips do not have a tight hold onto the speaker.  Mine was very loose when I disassembled the tender.  The clips a very soft, so not much pressure is put onto the speaker frame.

Martha,  here are two products you might look into for your sound requirements.  MRC Symophony 77, less than $100.  It plays through typical computer stand alone speakers.  Diesel and steam sounds.  Actually, quite impressive.  Really does create an "railroady?" atmosphere.  I have used this system on a N scale layout for some time now.  It's simple and effective.  Another brand new product is from Kato.  MSRP around $280.  Appears to have cartridges you can use to obtain the types of sounds needed.  Good luck and happy railroading!  Dave

Yes Rodger, the engines look great!  I really liked your scenery and backdrop work.  Very realistic looking. Dave

Hmmmmmm - It really looks like the metal was weak before the mechanical failure.  Do you remember when you removed it from the plastic box, was the broken parts on the top or bottom of the plastic box?  Really grasping at straws here.  Also,  where is the rivet that held the parts together?  I'm at a loss as to what happened.  Did you put the loco away or did someone else do it?  Dave

I am assuming the system uses infra-red signal transmitting,  therefore is line-of-sight, like your TV remote.  Check and see if you can add additional receivers to the system,  placing them around/over layout.  I have a Digitrak system with 2 receivers, one under the layout, benchwork at 42" hgt, and one up near the ceiling.  No dead spots.  You may need a couple more, trial and error.  Hope this helps,  Dave

Derek, If you have more than one DCC loco, make sure they each have a different address.  Your new MRC board defaults to CV1=03.  There is another situation that can cause this, and when I remember it I'll post it.  I assume the loco ran smoothly before you installed the decoder.  If nothing is obvious,  try resetting the decoder, CV8=08. Power off the system.  Repower the system.  This would put the decoder back the way MRC programmed it.  Good Luck, Dave

I just realized your command station may not be able to program CVs,  in which case locate someone or your LHS to program it for you.  You should consider upgrading to a full featured system so you can really enjoy the features of your locos.

What I find so interesting, is you never know what new knowledge is coming your way.  Learn something new everytime I'm on the computer.  Thanks Len, Yardmaster.   Dave

I have not run any of my equipment on DC.  According to my books and tech manuals from various mfg'rs,  the DC mode is sort of "fixed" as to features,  but unless they are using certain CV slots for just DC operation, I would not have expected a sound that you programmed to be different in the either mode.  Documentation of this sort is in short supply.  As far as changing CV values, go one step at a time.  Make sure you know what the CV does and how your change will affect it.  Also, some CVs work in conjunction with other CVs.  Be very careful when altering these groups of CVs.  I always read all CVs when I get a loco.  This gives me a reference as to what was normal.  Too many times the documentation does not agree with what the decoder actually has.  I always keep a log sheet for each loco, showing exactly the history of each CV that I changed.  It is safer to use a separate pgm track w/booster.  If you have several locos, you can get confused and that leads to a lot of work.  I know this seems like overkill,  but in the long run it will be worth it.  Saved my onions several times!  Dave

The following is a copy from another youtube site, concerning the MRC product in question.  Hope the helps. "Hello All,

I recently purchased said MRC Decoder Dr. It is much more than a decoder tester.

With this unit I can pre-program decoders equipped with an NMRA 8-pin plug directly from this unit, read and set CV's and test headlight functions.

If the decoder is installed in a loco this unit will test the motor functions, read the current address; 2- or 4-digit, program said addresses, read and write CV's, reset the installed decoder to factory parameters and test run the loco at reduced voltage. All on a separate programming track.

My programming track is two pieces of snaptrack with a re-railer in the middle attached to a length of board. Works for me!

I use the Bachmann Dynamis DCC system and rather than ponying up for the ProBox at about $500.00 (retail) I bought a MRC Decoder Dr. to perform many of the same functions.

The only drawback is that this unit draws it's power (15v DC) from the track with the included power lead. I bought a separate transformer to make this system stand alone. Coming from the unit there are two wires with an inline disconnect that attaches to the programming track.  For my needs it's perfect.

For those of you that have systems that already perform these functions on a programming track this unit won't make sense to you- -no matter the manufacturer of the DCC system your using."

I just searched the browser for "MRC decoder doctor",  lots of links to see about product.  Dave

My CRS made me almost forget the important stuff!  I have HO equipment from Bachmann, Soundtraxx Tsunami,  and MRC.  Most of the the basic low numbered CVs are the same.  A lot of the higher level CVs are unique to what each mfg'r stipulated.  The particular command station/programmer you use, will handle them all.  You might run into some limitations from certain programmers,  but usually there is a "work around" process to handle this as well.   Good Luck,  Dave

Yardmaster - My time of a post to the forum was, as an example, 09:47 AM.  When the post shows up on the forum listing,  it is time stamped 08:47 AM.  I am in the Central time zone.  Why the "discrepancy"?  Does the forum site not recognize Dalylight Savings time?  Thanks, Dave

on39gn15 - In looking at the largest blowup picture, something seems strange about the eccentric.  If you look at the edges of the stamping, they are not smooth.  Compare this to the eccentric rod that is disconnected from the crank.  Almost looks like something was "eating" away at the eccentric, or the eccentric and the eccentric rod are two different metals,  and an electrolysis situation was setup.  In that case, any humidity getting through, (plastic boxes are not air tight), would provide the conditions favorable to this action.  Do you have a lot of humidity where the equipment is stored?  How does the eccentric and rod look on the other side of the loco?  Dave

Rich C. - I did consider a wooden bunker, but I was in a rush to get this thing modified, I just went with the steel look.  I think a wooden bunker w/detail would be just the ticket. Dave

Just bought a second B'mann 2-6-0 DCC w/sound (new).  Runs as fine as the first one.  Until it hit a PECO curved switch. Dropped the pilot truck & 1st axle onto the ties.  My other Mogul runs this switch hundereds of time, no problem.  As with most things, the end result is the culmination of many contributing factors.  The wheels are all in perfect NMRA gauge.  Factor 1 - Inside diverging set of rails on the Peco switch is not a true radius.  It has a slight jog on the outside points rail. Factor 2 - This 2nd Mogul does not have as much side play in the driver axles as the 1 yr. old unit.  Factor 3 - The new unit wheel rims appear to be not as smooth a finish as the older unit.  Bottom line is: When loco rode over the moveable switch points, the jog in the point rail(s) caused the fairly ridgid chassis to bind, and up & over the rails she went.  Solution: Remove gear/axle cover plate.  On the 2nd (center) axle position only,  file down the plastic tab that juts out from the body of the plastic cover.  This allows the 2nd axle to have more side play.  These "tabs" are meant to keep the back face of the drivers from contacting the cast metal frame,  so be sure to leave some tab exposed.  Result: No more derailments.  Another fine running loco from B'mann.  Yes, I have to narrow up the tender.  I liked Johnathan's slope back tender.  Might try that for something different.  Dave

Finally, I think I can now show my alterations to the Mogul tender.  This weekend I pickup a TSU1000 light steam sound decoder and DS1425-8 cube speaker to replace B'mann card & speaker.  Here goes:

Frame rails removed using Zona saw very carefully. 


Removal of all mntg studs, spkr rim, screw studs.  Rear light led mtg left alone.



Fore & aft coal bin walls removed


Side coal bin wall removed - one to go


Coal bin gone rear view


Coal bin gone front view


Rear retaining tabs removed


Center strip area to be removed to reduce width of tender to match loco cab


Separate water tank wall from top deck-1 side only


Water tank wall removed from tank deck and opposite wall


Strip remove from tank deck allowing narrowing of tender


First test fit of narrowed tender shell with loco


Reinforce styrene (white) at new joint in water tank rear wall


Another test fit - moral booster mostly


Side strip removal on bed plate to allow mtg of frame rails closer to centerline


Placement of .020 in. shim (white) to raise bed frame up 3 in. when glued


Frame rails attached to bed plate - note bed intersects rails 1/2 way up


Notches in water tack wall to receive raised frame rails-lower edge


Test fit of bed w/ rails


Filler pieces (white) around new coal bin walls


New tender - right side


New tender - left side


"Builder's Photo"


Top view showing new matching width of loco & tender


Perspective - left side


Perspective - rear quarter


Perspective - rear (seam not finished)


Perspective - rear - elevated


Proto reference-Genesee & Wyoming


Whew! Done.  It went smoother than I thought.  Even remembered to make back ups as I went along.  You know, Murphy is always lurking to strike.

Later I will cut & move stirrup steps outward toward edge of tender.

Thanks again for all the help from everyone,  Dave

Well here goes -  I'll try to post my construction pics here.
http://i930.photobucket.com/albums/ad142/dave2744/mogulmedtender_zpst84ekg2t.jpg

http://i930.photobucket.com/albums/ad142/dave2744/DSCN0664_zpssp0unls4.jpg



The third address was using the "IMG" button.  It only got me a longer address.

Well, something is still not right.  I used the i930 direct button, but only the address shows, no pic!  I'll stop here until I get some more help from you all,

After doing the third pic post using IMG, after about 40 secs, a picture showed up - Amazing.

Yes Jonathan, you were almost dead on with your estimate of the width of tender vs. loco.  Same for using IMG button.

I will start a new post later for a clean start.

Thanks for everyone's help, Dave