eBay has tenders available all the time

Safety film on the Missouri Pacific on the late 1940s.

My favorite Railroad, my favorite time period.  The railroads were perfect art form in those days.

Watch, and comment.  Several very interesting interesting things are seen that I'll discuss later.

https://youtu.be/8ZgoSfD0TVM?si=QkhBPpOeQkSP0Por

As far as I know, you can use the older steel alloy track with no problem. But, the problem is that steel rusts. I think the only place that would be a problem is high humidity Regions. I live in one so I don't use it.

Fasten your track with appropriate model railroad track screws available at any model railroad retailer, Google is your friend.  Drill holes At the end of each section that doesn't already have holes.

You can also fasten your track down with various glues or caulks but I've been sorry every time I've ever done that, something always goes wrong or I want to change something in the design.

They Will not bring the Shay or the climax back because there just isn't a train set it would work well with.

Resets and renaming addresses are functions of your DCC system and aren't properties contained in the turntable itself.  What system are you using?

It is always worth paying a professional to install your DCC/sound decoders.  No endless research, no backtracing each wire to find out what feeds what, no frying the decoder if you get something wrong, and no accidentally putting the soldering iron through the tender shell. 

You send the engine off, pay for the work, and get it back nearly perfect, meaning you'll almost certainly need to manipulate CVS to get things the way you want them.  Motor control can always be improved, different sounds such as Whistles can be selected, and sound volumes are always unbalanced at default.

Those Shays are beautiful and worth the money to buy the parts to get them running right, in my opinion. 

I doubt Bachmann ever brings them out again.  In recent years, they have leaned very heavily back towards the Toy Train Market, which is a lot more lucrative than the serious Model Railroad market, which is where the Shays live.  Shays were really intended primarily for logging and mining operations, which are not nearly as interesting to a child or a beginner as some mainline train that Goes Fast, when Shays really couldn't do more than about 15 miles an hour at best and that would be breakneck speed for them.

If the Bachmann Shay is ever reborn, I'm good for one, but I'm not going to get a used one and go through all the twitching it takes to get it running right.

The answer for that will be found in your owners manual for the DCC system itself.

Running DCC locomotives on a DC layout is pushing a square peg into a round hole, it can be done, but really isn't meant to be.  It'll run, but not as well as it would on DCC as intended, plus you don't get to use most of the sound features properly.

You can do it, just like you could walk coast to coast backwards, but the intended method is so much better.

You probably just need to run the train a lot.  I had an engine that sat up a long time without use and when I finally put it on the track again, it did a lurching jerking thing when starting, then ran smoothly after a couple of minutes of that. I just put that engine in Service and ran none of my others for about four days and it finally smoothed out.  I think that within the motor there was some oxidation that finally wore off after a fair amount of use.

I knew I had a dead spot in the track because the train would stop dead there, even after all the cleaning we've discussed.

That T-shaped black shadow is a spring to hold the front idler wheels ("pony truck" in railroad speak) on the track.  It should be not be off to the side, but rather centered over the pony truck, pushing down with very light pressure.   But it also looks like it has been installed upside down. You need to remove the truck, flip the spring over so it now is pushing down on the truck, and reattach it to the underframe in the same order it came apart. Look at the attached parts diagram to see how the spring should actually be installed.

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/H836-IS001.PDF

Hint:  do this work with the engine inside some kind of box top with a lid around the edge.  If that screw rolls off the table and down onto the floor, you will never find it.  I've lost count how many parts are still on my floor that have gone into some kind of black hole.  You hear them hit the floor and then that's the end of it, they completely disappear into an unknown dimension.

This is not a big operation, model railroading is full of fix-it stuff every day, every day it seems like.  But your engine should've been put together right in the beginning.

I've been with Model Train over 60 years now and it seems like every time I want to run the train I have to fix something somewhere. I just spent this morning, trying to reactivate a dead spot in my track somewhere so I could operate at all.

And one other thing you can do is look under the tender And see the little phosphor bronze wipers on the axles that pick up electricity.  They can get Oxidized too, Although they usually don't get very bad until you run a while.  They can be removed and cleaned but since you are a beginner, I wouldn't do that yet. Try getting the tiniest little drop of alcohol on the end of a toothpick And deposit it where the wiper meets the axle and roll back-and-forth. 

You probably still need to clean your wheels some more. Sometimes that stuff gets lodged in such a way that it will only allow traveling in One Direction.  Work on it some more and see if that helps some.

Another thing you can do is get a can of keyboard spray air, and spray up inside the locomotive frame between the drivers.  There may be some more
Foreign matter in there that would blow out.  It's incredible how many places these engines can have Compromised electrical contact.

I forgot to say that the giveaway in this episode is that the headlight is on, but the engine won't move.  This definitively shows that the engine is not getting full power, enough to light the headlight, but not enough to make the motor turn.  Since you've checked everything else, this 99.99% points to dirty wheels as the culprit.