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I have a book, I will reread it about electric wiring. I can just leave the inner and outer loop separate. I still want blocks.

The Backmann EZ snap track is an ok product. I and my hobby store advisor tried to gently remove the little brass joiner to replace with a plastic joiner to make a break in the track. They appear to be spot welded on. All we managed to do is destroy several pieces of track. We tried the rail snippers which cut the rail but leave no space and are not smooth cuts. I got a 1/16th thick dremel grinding wheel but it just polishes the track instead of cutting it.  A mini 50 tooth saw cuts but is hard to isolate the cut to the desired track. What can be done? I will put a fotos when i decode photobucket.

Some very nice details for me to address. Thank you for the time it took to give me a direction to go. No more with the cat.

No more shooting the cat. You didnt answer my question. BR

Quote from: Stephen D. Richards on October 12, 2010, 09:27:22 AM
SouthernCrescent,  I'm suprised the 2-6-2 you have has that wobble.  However, as stated that is a low end steam loco.  I have one and it runs fine.  Bachmann will most certainly fix the problem for you.  If you paid "nearly $100" for it you may have paid too much for it.  Check the internet, especially The FavoriteSpot.  Great place to deal with.  Don't be afraid of Bachmann!  Their quality has risen 1000 percent in the last 10 years.  Maybe a stretch... but I do have some Bachmann locos from the seventies and eighties!  I usually take them apart for the parts and what detail I can get.  Stephen

The only Ebay store I use  is The  Favorite Spot as he takes a check or money order. As Ebay requires the bloodsucking Paypal I do not normally look there anymore. Ebid is a good try to find RR stuff.

Well men. I got my switches to operate. when in doubt read the instructions.

Now I seem to have made a small error in judgement and involved my little woman in a stink about her new car. The neighbor cat likes to track mud up the top of the car so i was in by barn minding my own business. I figured 4 pumps on my pellet pistol woudn't hurt little old Snookums cat and learn him to get offn the car. Problems arise in trajectory calculations when underpowered. So now my spouse is all up in a roar cause i hit the window on the passenger side and missed the cat. Just can't win somedays.

My layout has 2 loops of track Up to now i have ran 2 separate power packs on the separate loops. i want to put a connector between the loops which have the outside rail as the power feed and the inner rail as common ground. Can I make a block on the connector rails and power off 1 or the other packs without frying my Mallet? i assume the poewr packs would need to be syncronised just so to see a smooth transition from loop a including the block connector  to loop b.

Quote from: ABC on October 09, 2010, 09:36:12 PM
Flickr is another good photo-hosting site. The turnouts have a little switch on the side for manual use.

The little lever on the switch has no positive lock and will partially open  after a lot of traffic and derail. Needs a spring loaded actuating ziz=throckle or a cogged daligometer etc.

Hello men. I need help with the red and green wireing on my layout. I am nailing it down after a year of not wanting to deal with the electrical. So I want to ask some guidance from one of you railroaders. I will take some pictures and try to show what I want to do. I have basic electrical theory from navy sonar and torpedoman training at US Fleet ASW School in SD class of 65 but this snap modular stuff is a challenge. And expensive.

Can Bachman EZ switches be hooked up to do manually with a throw?

I'll be back.