jviss

Bob Caplan's original question was

"Is it advisable to remove the cover plate and put a drop of light oil on the motor shaft that exits the housing of the motor in the trucks of the climax, shay and heisler?....or will this lead to problems such as clogging,etc."

Bill was responding to the "drop of light oil" as was originally asked.

I, like RGW, have nothing but praise for the Bachmann Service Department, over the years I have ordered motors, drive shafts, drivers and gears, all have been posted the day after ordering and received usually within 3 days.  This includes G and N Scales.

I use code 250, and a company called OLD PULMAN has a lot of track kits very reasonably priced, and very responsive with help.

Cameron,

As Brokemoto alluded to, if the "nubs" on the tender and engine are hexagonal, that's the earlier generation of the locomotive, if the "nubs" are slotted, that's the recent generation, and that drive shaft is listed for sale under the Parts, Service and Information section of this website.  I have 9 of the earlier generation and finding the hex drive shaft is very difficult.  There is a thread on this page called "PARTS BOX" that addresses solutions to the hex drive shaft.

Dgun,

Does it flex very easily, if so where did you get it, as the surgical tubing is expensive. 

As to the measurement, secure one end of the tubing on the motor shaft in the tender, assemble the engine to the tender via the draw bar, insert the tubing into the drive shaft opening in the back of the cab and mark the tubing where it enters the cab, add 3/8' to that mark and that is your length.

Are the gears worn, or have the motors moved out of alignment?  If it's alignment, there is an article in the new issue of Model Railroader where they rebuild an old N Scale 4-4-2.  The author replaced the motor, but does go into a great deal of detail on aligning the motor to the gears.  If they are worn I haven't any suggestions for you.

The shafts on both the engine and tender have splined shafts, you can gentle pull the hex cup off of both and use the new slotted cups and new "tee" drive shaft.  The "clear" model airplane fuel line walls are too thick and won't flex enough, see if your local hobby shop carries surgical tubing, it is used on "free flight" model aircraft so the flight timers (called Tick Offs) can pinch the tubing and cut off fuel to the engine. It is very thin walled and very flexible.  I have 9 of the older style 4-4-0's and have faced your drive shaft problem.  I have heard of folks getting the drive shafts and cups from Atlas 4-4-0's and Athearn 2-6-0's and using them, but I do not have any first hand experience with those parts.

I would like to second Joe's proposals, especially the roundhouse.

I recently sold a new one to Scott Griggs at Trainz, you may want to check with them

www.trainz.com

Jerry,

Here is a link that may answer all your questions

www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=21980.0

Jerry,

You can make coupler boxes from K&S Engineering 8262 Rectangular Brass Tube 3/32" X 3/16" X 12" .  Plastruct also makes a styrene tube with the same measurements.  I have made body mounted coupler boxes from them using the Bachmann E-Z Mate couplers (long, medium & short).  Regardless of how you get or make your boxes, you will need a good coupler height gauge, I use the Micro Trains 988 00 031 Coupler gauge.

Have a safe move and great Holidays in your new home.  I know what it is like to move an outdoor railroad an being a lot older than you, I know what it is like to get down to lay track and not be able to get up!  Thats why mine is indoors.  I'll talk with you after the Holidays, God Bless to you and your family!

Tac,

I wish I had a suggestion for you, but during the process of posting this everything was left justified, I'm sorry I can't be of help.

I second the above, all is as it should be!

Try coating the wires with "New Skin", its clear and when dry its flexible.