Hmmm..........All I have is EZ Command Plus.

Well, I am very pleasantly surprised. My copy of the 2024 On30 Annual arrived today. I placed the order on April 14. This is absolutely the fastest that I have ever received the Annual, and I have been ordering since 2017 or 2018. Usually, it has taken 8 to 10 weeks but last year it took about 6 months. Anyway, I'm a happy camper. Now to my recliner and some serious reading 

I'm sure I'm not the only one who's had problems with zinc happen on the 1:20.3 Scale Spectrum Diecast Trucks on the Murphy Roof Boxcars.  All 3 of mine have had their trucks come down with zinc rot.  I was able to buy replacement ones for one, and get one replacement truck for another, but they're now out of stock and I can't buy anymore.
Do ones from Accucraft or Ozark Miniatures work? 
Also do you think Bachmann will produce a new batch given that they're ALWAYS producing batches of metal diecast trucks for the Spectrum Shays?
Any answer will help, thank you!

The D axles have remedied the problem of the older splined gear designs of the constant splitting and breaking.
However if you can't get ahold of the D shaped gear and axle, your best bet is to order an after market drive gear from Northwest Shortline.  Those will last you forever and never break given the thicker plastic.
They used to sell the metal gears from the newer spectrum Moguls, but because someone posted about converting their 2008 4-4-0 American from having a plastic gearbox to a metal gearbox on social media, many others jumped on the band wagon, and the bronze gear boxes from the 2017 Moguls sold out like hotcakes.
So best bet, Northwest Shortline gears.

A doubleheader was the steam era equivalent of a "consist."  Except they were independently operated by two different crews, whose coordination had to be perfect to avoid damage or worse.

"Consist" used to mean the cars in a train.  I don't know when it started meaning a bunch of diesels coupled together.

Cv's 209 and 210 govern motor control.

This will work for any sound value engine, and for Tsunami before series 2.

1.  Get engine on a track controlled by a system that can change cv settings (no EZ Command)
2.  Set cv 2 (starting voltage), 3 and 4 (momentum), 209 and 210 (motor control) to 0.
3.  Set throttle to step 1.  Engine won't move yet.
4.  Try gradually increasing cv 210 value until engine barely starts to move.  It will be jerky.
5.  Slowly increase cv 209 value until jerkiness smooths out.
6.  Set momentum values for smooth start and stop.  I like cv3=100 and cv 4=50 but you may want more or less, experiment.

At this point that baby ought to start and stop silky smooth and crawl like an ant.

If things slip up you can always reset with cv8=8 plus track power interruption.

Sound value.  I've read that the TCS decoders are even better.  Hard to imagine how.  And yes, the smooth running at slow speed makes it nice and easy to manipulate connecting cars, navigating turnouts....etc.

John, I've purchased several items from the kitbash parts site and have been very happy with what I received. The only thing I can say is, if you find something you need or like, buy immediately because a lot of the items are onesies or twosies, meaning that once they're sold, they may never show up again. I'm familiar with Deerfield River Laser, have purchased from them in the past and have been very satisfied. Good luck with your modeling.

It would  have to be a very small piece if you had to cut an Atlas one shorter than the Bachmann 3/4" piece.

The Seemingly slow top speed is probably prototypical.  Most model engines run way too fast. 

The hard thing on models is to get them to run prototypically slowly.  When your DCC engine is on the slow side to begin with, you can really achieve remarkably slow speed Via manipulation of motor control CV's.

Does your engine have a TCS decoder? Or is it a "sound value" decoder?