This is a great discourse on why cars derail and yes a well planned and executed rail installation will minimize derailments.

His question is about the effectiveness of the Bachmann rerailer.  His point is well taken with me since I have older rerailers that put the flanges in the grooves instantly and my old steel rerailers aligned the trucks and set the flanges when part of a passing train or if I was manually setting it on the rails.  They were especially good at rerailing front or trailing trucks of steam engines that can pop out for any number of reasons.

The Bachmann rerailers ( and I have 5 of them) seldom get the job done efficiently, I can manually run a box car back and forth over a Bachmann rerailer and then in frustration get down and eyeball the flanges in the grooves.

Yes... the Bachmann rerailers are not effective.  They look like the others but do work as well.

I went with the P2K RS-2.   Added a decoder.   It is a sweet runner.   Bachmann still lists the B&M RS-3 but I think its just lack of updating.  The B&M classic maroon and gold with minuteman herald is my all-time favorite livery.  I put DCC in my fleet of E-7, FTs, BL-2, SW1500 and now working on steamers with the the red and gold cursive on the tender.

Dear Mr. Bachmann, Still have room for that RS-3 should you release it.

Is there a way to turn off the rear facing light on the aux tender?

Thanks, RD

It runs like a champ, the bell and whistle add a lot to the effect.   This is a great value for the price.

You were right!   I took a small screwdriver and seated the connnector firmly into the engine, took off the tender wheels and bent the brush leads on the axles and it runs all over the layout with out hesitation, Thanks Bob!
RD

New out of the box engine stops dead at low speeds when the tender reaches any turnout.  At higher speeds the momentum is carrying it across the frog. I have 10 other DCC steam and diesel engines and none of them do this.  Before I send it back to The Favorite Spot for replacement I am hoping someone here or The Bach-Man can help.  I have a fair bit of experience with engine wiring and DCC and I have checked the external connections on the tender and it all looks correct.

Has anyone had this experience and is there an easy adjustment I could make.

Thanks.  RD

the crossover is 4.25 wide and 21.25 long

its still MIA but listed in products.  Pining here.

Last I heard the paint was bad and a rerun was due for release in spring 2012.

other than size?

Bachmann EZ Command Decoder 1 Amp 9.5mm X 5mm with 8 Pin NMRA Plug 44926

Bachmann EZ Command Decoder 1 Amp with NMRA 8 Pin Plug 44915

Is there anyone that has experience or information about using the "sold separately" Bachmann tenders as a part of a DCC conversion.  The tenders come in varied styles and have an 8 pin NMRA plug so the decoder installation is practically "plug & play".  The tricky part will be to route the engine wiring to the connector at the front of the tender.

Thanks for any information you can send my way.

richd

I picked up the pro-box at a excellent internet price so was not my concern.

Interested if others have this issue reading CVs.  It seems simple enough.

When I attempt to read a CV (using my service track) I always get the same response "255" which is the max entry. I know I have programmed in another value and that it has taken the desired effect on the engines performance.  So... I expect to be able to read back the value I entered but I still get "255".  Any thoughts?

Item 36505 ( you can look it up here on he Bachmann site) is the basic system including the command center and the wireless handheld.  It has what you need to get started.

ugh,  I have been waiting a year for the B&M version,  last year the minuteman herald was out of scale and now the color is off,  hope springs eternal!

I have had the same issue after recently bring power up after a track change.  After reading everyones responses I think I have an answer...  I have a DCC powered arrangement with power coming into the TT from position 4.  I get a short when the turn table crosses polarity with another powered spur.  I have power coming out of the TT conflicting with a powered section.  If I remove the power to the spur, it will only be powered when the TT is aligned with it which can be OK if I want that spur dead when the TT is moved away from that position.  The other fix might be to put insulators between the spur and keep it powered.  My concern this the insulated track section is a possible short when an engine crosses the insulators and bridges the circuits.  I will test this tonight and get back to you.