I was watching my EZ Command Controller DVD today and saw the box you seem to have to buy to have a reversing loop in a layout.

The more I see & read the more complicated and expensive things seem to get.  Is there a wiring way around the reverse loop so there won't be a short in the track?

Thanks-
Rick
-

Greetins-

What brand of DCC Sound decoder use in their 'installed from the factory' equipped locomotives?


Rick

I have about 3 dozen various ans sundry types of rolling stock - boxcars, flatcars, tankers, cabooses - that have hook-horn couplers on them.  Some are old Tyco and Atherns models, others are ebay specials.  I was wondering if anyone has tried to convert any stock using these couplers?  What kind of luck did you have?  Does this coupler need a specific sized box?





thanks-
Rick

Good day folks,

The Soundtraxx Tsunami TSU-1000 S for Heavy Steam Locomotives is installed in the Bachmann 2-10-2 tender.  This 2-10-2 had DCC installed from the factory. 

The 2-10-2 worked ok on my DC oval with a MRC 220 DC transformer before the Tsunami implant.  My Proto 2000 2-10-2 with DCC and QSI sound works fine on this DC track as well as a Bachmann Russian Decapod "DCC Ready."

After installing the Tsunami I tried the locomotive on the DC 5'x6' oval.  The loco won't move, there are no lights but there is a very faint barely audible sound coming from the speaker.  If I was guessing I'd say it is the clanging of a bell or a repeated short quick steam release. 

I don't have a DCC controller (it'll be here next week).  Connections have been checked and rechecked.  There is a red LED inside the shrink wrap of this Tsunami that comes on.

Does this Tsunami need a setting or re-setting of a CV?

When some willing fingers arrive I plan on swapping out the Tsunami for the DCC decoder that came onboard.

Ideas or headscratching "hmmms" are welcome.

Thanks,
Okie Rick and his trick mouthstick.

Good Evening,

Inside my 2-10-2 Light Steam Locomotive tender I've run across a lone Red wire that looks as though it may have been soldered to the nut and screw it is laying beside.  It's the Red wire on the left side of the tender ending at the shiny screw.  If you have been in your 2-10-2 tender and recall where this should lay I'd appreciate in knowing.  The exploded view pdf doesn't show the insides of a DCC wired tender.  I'm adding a Tsunmi TSU-1000 for Heavy Steam Sound Decoder with the assistance of many here.

If you know if this Red wire should or shouldn't be attached to the nut or screw post it here or send email.




Thanks-
Okie Rick

Bob or all you others,

In all your world travels, have you taken the time to climb aboard the 844 from Denver to Cheyenne (during Frontier Days) for it's journey from Denver to Cheyenne and back?


I'm 56, the only trains I've been on were parked on Santa Fe or KATY siding in Dewey or Bartlesville, OK.  When I was 7 I was given a used bike.  Ma & Pa said, "Stay away from the tracks."  Translate that to juvenile Okie-ese and you get something like "it's your hide on the barn door if you get caught."  I've climbed in, over, under and walked down both steel and wooden boxcars, stock cars, tankers, gondolas of various heights and even ridden my bicycle on a flatcar.  When work trains or switch engines were left on siding we'd walk the catwalk all around the locomotive.  That was always a spooky thing to do as it seemed those diesel locomotives could come alive any time.

The Santa Fe "Streamliner" as we knew it decked out in Red and Silver war bonnet colors pulling glistening silver cars and a caboose ran North to KS around 6:30am each morning and ran South in the late evening.  This particular train was traveling at 60+ mph as it blew through the little town of Dewey.  Years later passenger service was replaced by freight service that ran South at 4:00pm.  By 197o high speed freight service was down to once a week running at 9:00pm Friday nights.  When with friends we'd go out on the Caney River train bridge and hang onto 12" I beams to keep from "getting sucked under the train."  According to one's parents, in an effort to keep you off the RR tracks as a youngster, a train passing you at any speed would suck you under if you were close enough.  This area is serviced by a private RR now, still traveling the old Santa Fe route from Independence, KS to Tulsa, OK.  It travels by at just barely more than a fast walk.  Track upkeep isn't their number one priority.  If one can catch it they will allow you to ride topside.  I've often seen teen agers, homeless and migrant Hispanic heading North on a slow train.

The last steam locomotive in Washington County, Oklahoma now on display in Bartlesville, OK.





"Johnstone Park is home to the only Santa Fe engine 940 series in existence. The 900-class/940 series were the first locomotives to burn fuel oil instead of coal and were synonymous with the Santa Fe engine. Built by Vulcain, this Santa Fe engine, built in 1903, was originally a compound steam locomotive, and later converted to a simplified locomotive that could burn diesel. It has 2/10/2 wheels (2 pilot, 10 drivers and 2 trailing). Also to be seen at the park is the restored Hulah Santa Fe Depot (a #1 Santa Fe Depot), built in 1923. Both have been relocated to Johnstone Park as reminders of the important role each played in the development of the area."



"1909 Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe/Missouri-Kansas-Topeka Railroad Depot. Known as a Joint Agency Depot, its unusually large plan allowed other train agencies (Katy Line) to share the facility. It has been beautifully restored and currently houses the Bartlesville Area Chamber of Commerce and Convention and Visitors Bureau, Bartlesville Community Foundation, Bartlesville Development Corporation and the Visitor Information Center."

Looking for a train...

Okie Rick

Another Steam Question...

The locomotive in question is a Bachmann Spectrum 2-10-0 Russian Decapod - Nashville, Chattanooga & St. Louis® #953 (with cap stack).  It is "DCC Ready."  I had my Russian tender taken apart to see what "ready" looks like.  There was a PCB with an 8-pin socket with a male 8-pin plug occupying it.  The plug has 6 pins - some pins soldered to others.  I'm wondering...does all this locomotive need to becomes DCC is a DCC decoder?

bad photo but...




And after becoming DCC is it a Sound decoder away from having sound and DCC?

thanks-
Okie Rick

I have the two Bachmann Steam Locos listed above.  The 2-10-2 Light is DCC equipped.  The 2-10-0 Russian is "DCC Ready."  Both locos have two sets of wires connected to plastic connectors that plug into the tenders.

I don't have a DCC setup yet - just DC.

Are the wiring and connectors between the steam locomotives and their tenders of a Spectrum series a typical Bachmann setup?  Are all their steam locomoives like this?

The locomotives have the wiring and plastic male plug that inserts into the female connections of the tender.

Here is a Bachmann picture for reference.  These wires / plugs are what I'm asking about.

Okie Rick

...It was a dark and stormy night.  Actually it was here in OK, tornadoes claimed 11 lives in Lone Grove and the OKC area in the first tornado related storms of 2009.

I also derailed my Proto 2000 Spectrum Series 2-10-2 Heavy, Illinois Central 2924.  It was a gentle derail - the locomotive and tender rolled over and slid down a grade (6-7").  The DCC & Sound connection and wiring was intact.  The wreck resulted in the breaking of the cheap plastic loco to tender coupling device of the Proto 2000 DCC and Sound.  I was a tad bit upset to find this part of the loco and tender was so fragile.  It's 2 months old, Walthers told me today it was not warrantied for repair (I didn't figure it would be) but was told to send them part #s to see if they were available.

I'm inclined to change the way the Proto locomotive and tender couples to something a bit stronger & less apt to break.  Something like the Bachmann USRA 2-10-2 Light coupler - a simple piece of metal hooked between both units.  As shown in the exploded view of parts & snipped by me.



It would be a lot more substantial than the paper matchstick sized plastic connection that Walthers - Proto - Life-Like puts on their top end series of steamers.

I know you're supposed to be easy on these locomotives and such but if the first accident you have destroys the action and fun maybe[/i] it's time to retool.

Okie Rick

I have a cheap favorite older GP38 locomotive that the motor & drive wheels have stripped out.  Are these motors & trucks available?






Thanks-
Rick

Greetz.  OkieRick Here...my frst time here.

First things first.  I'm 56 and have been a quad for 33 ears - paralyzed from the arm pit area down.  I keyboard with a mouthstick.  Heck - I do everything with a mouthstick of some sort.  I'm blessed with some good friends that are willng to help me in their spare time.

I've recently purchased a Bachmann Spectrum 2-10-2 Light and a 2-10-0 Russian Decapod.  The 2-10-2 is equipped w DCC.  I'd like to add sound to both of them if possible.  I'm back in HO RR'ing after an absence of about 40 years. My first setup was a Tyco Santa Fe loco, motley asst of cars and about a mile of brass track.  I still own the loco but it is shelved.  Lots 'o stuff has changed.

I have another 2-10-2, a Proto 2000 with Quantum sound and DCC.  I haven't yet gone to DCC - I'm re-learning wiring and constantly re-building my layout.

About sound in the Bachmanns...Is there a place to start, a PDF, a file or site to help me get through installing sound in the 2-10-2?  Is Soundtraxx the best / easiest / ?  What about sound on the DC only 2-10-0 Russian?

Thanks for reading & if you can help I'd appreciate it.

OkieRick