Thanks for the reply Jonathan.

What type of lights do you use? Size, voltage, etc.?

I'm using the same method as you so I don't understand why my DC power pack isn't putting out the power. maybe it's going bad. My lights don't just dim...they almost go out all together.

I use EZ-track so I use the throw panel that comes with each turnout.

Thanks

-Brad

Taking suggestions on how to power lights! I run DCC with my EZ-Command and I have one old Bachmann DC/AC transformer wall wart powering my turnout controls (Using the AC terminals). I have scratch built a station and have tried to add lights. I purchased a DC bulb...mounted it and tested it...works great. The problem is I don't have enough juice to run both the light and the switches at the same time. I also have built another building that I wish to light with multiple lights. What do I use as a power source? Another wall wart? Anyone know of something a little more heavy duty...I'm planning more buildings and more lights?

-Brad

QuoteThe incredible increase in shipping rates, coupled with the addition of sales tax on all Internet purchases (how long did you think our politicians would let all that revenue slip through their fingers?), makes on-line shopping marginally cheaper than buying locally.

But as of right now you can buy online with out being taxed. And many places will give you a shipping discount for large orders. I do agree that shipping can get out of hand...You have to know where to look.

Marginally cheaper is still cheaper. Unfortunately I have to watch my pennies. I do prefer to walk out the door with something, but I'll wait if I save a few bucks. Being a college student means i don't have money to blow. 

-Brad

This is sad but I have trouble relating. Unfortunately in this economy I have to bargain shop. I research what I want and then I find it for the cheapest price... Most of the time, that's online. I refuse to buy from my Hobbytown down the street anymore. The have lost my special orders countless times, the owner runs a sloppy business. His employees even admit that it's bad and are always apologizing to me. I tried to be patient but after 3 years, I'm done. The next nearest store is great, but it's a long drive. By the time I drive all the way there and back it would be cheaper to buy online (gas money). No doubt if you have a LHS that gives you great service it will be greatly missed.

-Brad

I model the Norfolk and Western in the early 50's with "modern" steam. I have a rule to curb spending that I will only buy items that fit my era/locale. I think I would make an exception for a good 4-4-0. There is just something about the over the top decoration and just the overall look is fantastic. In short...I'd buy.

-Brad

Quotejust to give you an idea of how out of line some of the prices on ebay can be, i was on amazon this morning and came across a listing for an atlas layout plan book for n scale. the seller wanted $293.98 for it, it sells in any hobby shop worthy of the name for under $10. the edition listed has an older cover and probably hasn't been updated for dcc, but still we are talking about a book no more than10-15 years old, that is still in print. nothing rare about it, and he isn't going to get anywhere near that for the book. he'll be lucky to get $10-15.

Yes the prices on eBay are out of line....but that goes both ways. A person could be selling off an estate and have no idea that they have a beautiful piece. They start the bidding low and you snag a bargain. Disclaimer: You have to be very careful doing this! If the person doesn't know a lot about trains then it is hard for them to accurately describe their item.


-Brad

22 is the minimum!  I own one and it will not take 18 without constant derailment. She'll do 22 just fine though. If you plan to run steam, the larger the curves the better.

-Brad

EBT Bob- This is very interesting to know! I have talked to many people about the sunset model and I have heard nothing but praise. What run did you own?

Re-motering would be an option but it would be a lot of work because of the lack of room(space is also an issue for a decoder install). Or I could contract the work out... = lots of money. I don't know if my skills are up to the task.

I've also watched for the PSC 4-8-0 M2c to be on sale online every once in awhile. They are expensive, but gorgeous locomotives.

It would be really nice if Bachmann would make one and save me the time and money.

-Brad

Yeah, no thanks on the K-3. You can get a brass one for  a decent price on ebay these days. They show up alot. My vote is for an N&W M 4-8-0.

My other vote would be for a 2 truck shay.

Not sitting around and waiting...I already bought a brass two truck shay and I'm saving for the M.

-Brad

http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/2010/12/converting-ho-scale-spectrum-3-truck.html

It's a decent amount of work. I might suggest looking into brass. You can get a fine running and looking model right now for a decent price.

-Brad

ACY & Doneldon- Sorry, I should have been more specific. They are really old. Item # 43-1080. I think these might be the cars Rivarossi made for Bachmann.

Jim- So sorry! I didn't even realize you could do that on Kadee's site. I think they suggest #37? Maybe a #508 if they are the rivarossi cars.

I will post pictures asap.

I'm 99.9% sure these are the same...http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/Bachmann-HO-Norfolk-Western-Powhatan-Arrow-Set-NEW-/200593046502

-Brad

I just acquired a set of like new Bachmann N&W Powhatten Arrow passenger cars.  Very happy with them even though everyone seems to talk trash about them. I would like to install lights, knuckle couplers, and possibly new trucks. The trucks can wait and I'm not ready to tackle lights just yet but the couplers need to be changed (They are the old horn hook/X2F type). My question is what couplers to buy? I would like them to be body mounted and I'm pretty sure Bachmann doesn't offer anything of that sort. That means they will be Kadees. Any idea what I need to purchase? i'm not super family with anything outside of Bachmann couplers. Thanks for any input.

-Brad

QuoteThat pretty much limits you to an E-Z Command, because most of if not all the full systems are pretty complicated at least when you start out.

I would have to disagree here. We have kids at our local club running several systems. And by kids I mean young lads (and some ladies too). I say shop around and get several opinions before you buy. Go talk to your local hoppy store and they will help you out a lot.

-Brad

Thanks for all the responses. I was aware of the Kadee cars but not the Rivarossi ones. I'm assuming then that the Bachmann log load is easy to remove if I wish to model my own log loads?

Thanks again,
Brad

Hi all,
I've just purchased a brass two truck shay and I'm looking at getting some cars for her to pull. My question is... what is the difference between the two log cars Bachmann offers? Obviously they are meant for different eras, but what is the physical difference (if any) between them?

Thanks,
Brad

For those of you not familiar...

1906-1935 http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=609

1935-1960 http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=610