Happy Holidays Everyone! I have a quick question and hopefully there is an easy answer. My 5 y o Baldwin 2-8-0 Consol. runs fine with the DCC chip. I have two spots on my layout where the grade is quite steep and the loco cannot quite make the grade--wheels turning furiously when cranked up but there isn't enough traction to make it up the slope. Any suggestions besides tearing up the layout to decrease the grade?
Thanks!
Bryan
How steep is this grade? It must be one heck of a grade.
- Remove the spring over the front truck. It's not needed and reduces traction. Do this to all trucks on all your steam
- Glue lead weight up under the cab roof. If you are careful, the weight is not visible. It's also possible to put a lead weight on the cab floor between the seats. Do this to all your steam. Paint the weights black to make it even more invisible.
- I add airtanks made from Plastruct tubing to the pilot decks of all my steam engines. The airtanks are filled with a piece of round fishing weight.
Sounds like some great ideas, Roger. I'll let you know what happens! I really appreciate the response...
Bryan
you also can use a product called "bullfrogsnot" ??? yea i know it sounds funy. you drip it onto the wheels of 1 driver axel and it basicly makes a tire around both wheels. it will improve traction. for refrence I have 2 of the same Mikados (2-8-2) one has traction tires the other does not. the one with tires can pull about 40 freight cars. the one without tires is lucky to pull 28 cars. big improvement IMO
Trent
I have no fear of going off in a tangent here so ...........how about running a helper engine for that section, just like the real railroads do.I see trains with engines on both ends coming thru here before speeding off to cross the cascades. ;D smartiness not intened, for real.
http://www.amazon.com/BULLFROG-SNOT-Universal-Plastic-Traction/dp/B001NG2ECC/ (http://www.amazon.com/BULLFROG-SNOT-Universal-Plastic-Traction/dp/B001NG2ECC/)
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51-AoNXaSQL._SL500_AA280_.jpg)
You should test the required pulling force for all your cars. If the cars are properly tuned the pulling force should be around .08 to .10 ounce each on level track. Also test the drawbar force of your locomotives.
First test the loco and cars on level track, then test on your steepest grade. Then you will know how many cars you can pull without adding a helper engine.
I make my own force gauges, but you can buy them online.
http://www.delta-education.com/productdetail.aspx?Collection=Y&prodID=1973&menuID=
This is another must have tool for all modelers. The 250 gram will test up to 8.75 ounces, sufficient for HO.
You should also test the loco's current draw when pulling a steep grade. Adding a bit of weight probably won't hurt, but don't overdo it or the motor can overheat due to excessive current draw, or you might damage the drive gears. Consider wheel slip as normal and use helpers for realism.
Quote from: Yampa Bob on December 27, 2008, 02:22:29 AM
You should also test the loco's current draw when pulling a steep grade. Adding a bit of weight probably won't hurt, but don't overdo it or the motor can overheat due to excessive current draw, or you might damage the drive gears. Consider wheel slip as normal and use helpers for realism.
You can weight your locos as much as you like but the wheels should
ALWAYS be able to spin when the loco stalls on the grade. If the wheels don't spin, then you've added too much weight.
This is problem with traction tires, other than they wear out and who's to say replacements will be around in five, let alone ten years, is that they do not let the drivers spin under stall conditions and this can lead to motor burnout. Spinning drivers are the last defense against motor burnout due to stalling.
Thanks Roger,
You said it much better than I did. I also think modelers should know the difference between "stall" (wheels spinning) and "full stall" (motor stopped).
Quote from: Yampa Bob on December 28, 2008, 11:07:02 PM
Thanks Roger,
You said it much better than I did. I also think modelers should know the difference between "stall" (wheels spinning) and "full stall" (motor stopped).
Yes Bob, you are quite correct.
"Stall" (wheels spinning) = Good, motor safe.
"Full stall" (motor stopped) = Bad, motor in danger. Traction tire lovers please note.
good point, full stall = bad
IMO a motor that has the power to easly spin the wheels with traction tires (such as the motors found in my Broadway limited engines) will provide both better slow speed control and provide a nice increase in traction. of couse this is all realevent to the gear box that the engine is equipped with.
one thing I always did not like was a engine that ran at a scale 120MPH+ out of the box. if you geared that motor to a scale 80MPH top speed. the reduced gear ratio would greatly improve you slow speed control and improve the efficency of the motor thus extending its life.
Trent
full stall releases factory smoke, adding to realism ;D ;D ;D