Your best bet probably would be eBay, there must be thousands of those old tenders around. You could also ask at the N-Scale Community ( http://www.nscale.org/defaulteng.htm ), the people there are very helpful...

That all depends on how old the model is. Bachmann has an annoying habit of making upgrades to a model (often rather major ones) and keeping the same stock number for that model. If the locomotive has a plain black pin at the rear, it is an older version and does not require a tender with electrical pick-up (In fact a tender with pick-up would be incompatible) Check out Mark's review of the 0-6-0 http://www.visi.com/~spookshow/bach262.html
For everything you ever wanted to know about any n-scale loco ever, go here:
http://www.visi.com/~spookshow/locos.html

If you have one of the older 0-6-0 Bachmann will no longer have the proper tender for it; your best bet would be to look on eBay or at train shows.

I second the need for an RSD15. Model Power sold one made by Mehano 30 years ago that was an absolute piece of junk. I don't think anyone has ever made a RSD15 besides that one..

Look at Mark's review on Spookshow, he gives pointers on how to remove the shell...

http://www.visi.com/~spookshow/bach44ton.html

or

http://www.visi.com/~spookshow/locos.html

if you want to find out everything you ever wanted to know about any N-scale loco ever made..

Quote from: skipgear on June 24, 2012, 05:20:57 PM
Also transformers with pulse power can wreak havoc on DCC decoders confusing them and causing shut downs, lock ups and other issues.

Which brings me to what might be a dumb question: I remember  those old  MRC power packs (the metal ones) from the 60's with the pulse power switches on them. IIRC, those pulse power setting were for getting some sort of slow speed out of the rather crude motors of the time, primarily the ones in Horribly Oversized (which I was modeling back then).  I am using a MRC TechII power pack which has a "Momentum", not a Pulse, switch which essentially ramps up the speed to the throttle setting. Is this different from pulse power or can it still play havoc on DCC decoders running on DC??

Woodland Scenics rock molds and hydrocal would be both the most realistic and easiest way to go..

Rip it up and start again....

You don't need hot glue and you most certainly do not need track nails. In fact, track nails are the one item you definitely don't want to use EVER. Just go to your local office supply store and get you a box or two of Jumbo Push Pins, the kind you use on a bulletin board. Use white glue (Elmers or equivalent) to glue your roadbed to the risers, holding it in place with the push pins for 24 hours until the glue dries. Lay out your flex track and glue that to the road bed, again using the white glue/push pin method. When everything is dry, ballast the track and you end up with realistic looking track and roadbed and not with something that looks like it belongs to a train set...

Another option would be just to use the Atlas turnouts (switches) and use flextrack (either Atlas or Peco) in place of the sectional track pieces. Properly laid and ballasted flextrack not only looks better than EZ track but also is a LOT better as far as smooth running is concerned.....

Other than it doesn't pull worth a hoot it is a great running engine..

The sad truth is that if you run across older Bachmann locos (especially non-Spectrum, although even some first generation Spectrum diesels fall into this category) your best option is to run, not walk, away from them. This especially holds true for non-Spectrum steam in any other packaging than the current jewel boxes....
Before you buy ANYTHING used, check out Mark's reviews of the loco in question:  http://www.visi.com/~spookshow/locos.html

Bachmann trucks are a "drop in " replacement. MicroTrains trucks will need the hole slightly enlarged since the "kingpins" on Bachmann truck bolsters a bit too large for the opening, (one more reason why I went to body mount couplers on my conversions)..

Ron, dummy couplers will connect either with each other or magnetic couplers; however, they will NOT disconnect magnetically, not from each other, not from any flavor of magnetic coupler. That being said, I must admit that I have about a 50% success rate getting my magnets to work when I want them to. Plus there never seems to be a magnet where you REALLY want to spot that car . Usually I use an uncoupling tool (Rix makes one, and there are others out here). I am seriously considering cutting my trip pins off and just using the pick to uncouple them, but right now I kinda lack the ambition...

I never had any luck with the Intermountain dummies. Although the worst had to be the dummies from Model Die Casting. they would absolutely refuse to stay coupled to each other but seemed to work reasonably well when coupled with MT's. Go figure.
I finally bit the bullet and body mounted 1015's to all my cars; about 10years or so ago I came a cross a hobby store going out of business and I scooped up their entire supply of 1015 kit 10-packs. Bit of a learning curve, but using MT's coupler assembly jig, I found that I can put one together in under 3 minutes. (like Desertdweller I had in excess of 300 cars to convert as well as 120 locos - not all locos took 1015's BTW) Never regretted the time nor the money involved in making the switch. Crapidos suck!! Body mounted couplers work better, especially during backing moves while switching...
(Your mileage may vary..)

could also bee dirty track (especially if ALL locomotives exhibit that behavior), or bad contact somewhere in the locomotive (if only one does). The easiest fix is thoroughly cleaning the track . . I would try that first.