http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,4372.0.html

heres some lube info....connies screech whne the worm shaft bushings are dry and it will shred the brass into powder...

If its a screeching type shrill sound its the bushings on the worm shaft.mine did this and left brass dust in the casings causing me to return it.

Loco has to be tore down to reach them with lube.

Use a thick oil or grease on the brass rings on each side of the worm gear shaft.

Its a bit of a chore but it needs done or you will shred the bushings into dust.
Jim

My emails to you were rejected by your end.So you never received this info i sent.

http://jmri.sourceforge.net/xml/XSLT/pages/decoderIndex.html

http://jmri.sourceforge.net/xml/XSLT/pages/SoundTraxx_Tsu_Bachmann.xml.html

Try looking at the "Bachmann" tsunami files...may give you some help...

The new versions of these classics ARE much better.........Skewed pole armatures in the motors.

Lets em run more scale.(read SLOW)
Jim

Could be a stiff spot from sitting in the belt.

Run it till it pukes .......maybe it will loosen up.

It took me 3 tries to get a good 2-8-0.And it required work too.

Jim

Just goes to show you how dirt cheap these locos are to make ......Just send em a new one........cheaper than spending a few hours fixing one.

They probably are destroyed........They may be kept off the streets for fear of them back dooring the new sales market, Or coming in again as a warranty item......(buy a junker send it back in with $25 and save $100 off that new loco price.)

Or they simply see no profit to be had in the basher dept.

Jim

If it surges once per revolution (timed with the wheels) then its a driver quarter issue and it will not Break in.

Jim

I sent you links to all the decoder info......CV adjustments are key.

Jim

1.Pull drawbar screw
2.Pull both "rods" that are under the very front of the loco (smokebox) out from their holes in the cast body of the loco...
3 lift the cab up slightly then pull casting of the loco forward and off the drivetrain.

To remove the driver set intact ..remove the lead/trailing trucks and then the screws front and rear under them....that will pull the bottom driver plate assembly from the upper split frame/motor assembly.......

Jim

Bob the Powercab has a 360 thumbwheel.....and on the left and right are speed pushbuttons that jog fast or slow through the speed steps.



The 360 wheel is for yard mode by design where your sorting cars ect you can roll the wheel and cross the zero point easy to help you actuate magnetic couplers by bumping fore/aft ect.

But when your not in yard mode it will roll to zero and stop there Not changing direction until you press direction button.......

Bachmanns decoders are as stripped down as the system...not much to adjust via CV's...

Hope this helps.

Alcohol is meant to be burned in Airplane engines during the summer months.....I fly RC .

Global warming is a socialist ideal.....spoon fed to mind numb masses that feel the need for more bigger government and wont be happy until we pay 50% of or wages in taxes and let the government raise us like children.

30 years ago they said it was the second coming of the ice age and we all were gonna freeze to death.

They cant predict mondays weather........Let alone tell you whats going to happen 30 years from now.

Oh yea remember y2k.........same sheep fell for that one.......Lemmings....all of them.

Jim

DCC for me....

I like the lighting effects........selectable and adjustable.
Motor settings to tune the loco...selectable and adjustable.
Sound......selectable and adjustable.

And lack of wiring block systems into my layout.....and insulating rails ect.
Plus i love Soldering in decoders speakers and lights into a once lifeless chassis.

With low end intro dcc systems(no programming ect) you have not seen what you CAN do with Dcc....All the settings and tunning make the locos perform better ,add inertia...set start up volts and speed curves ect .

And to add just one light effect in DC it would cost $20-30 per circuit(retail) and do nothing else for the loco....as a decoder can.

If all you can do is drive the train (cheap dcc systems) then your not much better than dc conventional control if you ask me..And have not fully seen DCC in action.....Unless its a Fully operational DCC system..That lets you program..its a waste.....and handicapped.

I could have used blocks on my small RR but im glad i chose DCC.

As for operational problems......Move your RR to a mall ......set it back up and
you will have problems also......and have to fiddle and re-tune tracks ect.

Add 20 operators with different opinions and ideas and its going to cause problems.....DC or DCC.

Jim

I didn't shim my connie...I exchanged it for new....Its ok right now....but you must tear them down to get to anything.

On the connie you would need circular shims and pull the worm shaft to put them in....complete Loco teardown. I dont think my mountain method would work here....different frame.

Jim

Bob i started a year ago in dcc with the powercab and i love it........Easy to understand and programming is a snap when you have the cv list from the decoder manufacture......The powercab is layed out very well and understandable.

Jim

Blue should be lighting common........on the decoder

Go to Digi's www and download their decoder manual (not the dh123 one ) its a large pdf adobe file with 78 pages or so covering the fx lighting ect.
Its titled......... Decoder Manual.pdf and is 561 kb

http://www.digitrax.com/pdfdocs.php

Jim