Running DCC locomotives on a DC layout is pushing a square peg into a round hole, it can be done, but really isn't meant to be.  It'll run, but not as well as it would on DCC as intended, plus you don't get to use most of the sound features properly.

You can do it, just like you could walk coast to coast backwards, but the intended method is so much better.

You probably just need to run the train a lot.  I had an engine that sat up a long time without use and when I finally put it on the track again, it did a lurching jerking thing when starting, then ran smoothly after a couple of minutes of that. I just put that engine in Service and ran none of my others for about four days and it finally smoothed out.  I think that within the motor there was some oxidation that finally wore off after a fair amount of use.

I knew I had a dead spot in the track because the train would stop dead there, even after all the cleaning we've discussed.

That T-shaped black shadow is a spring to hold the front idler wheels ("pony truck" in railroad speak) on the track.  It should be not be off to the side, but rather centered over the pony truck, pushing down with very light pressure.   But it also looks like it has been installed upside down. You need to remove the truck, flip the spring over so it now is pushing down on the truck, and reattach it to the underframe in the same order it came apart. Look at the attached parts diagram to see how the spring should actually be installed.

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/H836-IS001.PDF

Hint:  do this work with the engine inside some kind of box top with a lid around the edge.  If that screw rolls off the table and down onto the floor, you will never find it.  I've lost count how many parts are still on my floor that have gone into some kind of black hole.  You hear them hit the floor and then that's the end of it, they completely disappear into an unknown dimension.

This is not a big operation, model railroading is full of fix-it stuff every day, every day it seems like.  But your engine should've been put together right in the beginning.

I've been with Model Train over 60 years now and it seems like every time I want to run the train I have to fix something somewhere. I just spent this morning, trying to reactivate a dead spot in my track somewhere so I could operate at all.

And one other thing you can do is look under the tender And see the little phosphor bronze wipers on the axles that pick up electricity.  They can get Oxidized too, Although they usually don't get very bad until you run a while.  They can be removed and cleaned but since you are a beginner, I wouldn't do that yet. Try getting the tiniest little drop of alcohol on the end of a toothpick And deposit it where the wiper meets the axle and roll back-and-forth. 

You probably still need to clean your wheels some more. Sometimes that stuff gets lodged in such a way that it will only allow traveling in One Direction.  Work on it some more and see if that helps some.

Another thing you can do is get a can of keyboard spray air, and spray up inside the locomotive frame between the drivers.  There may be some more
Foreign matter in there that would blow out.  It's incredible how many places these engines can have Compromised electrical contact.

I forgot to say that the giveaway in this episode is that the headlight is on, but the engine won't move.  This definitively shows that the engine is not getting full power, enough to light the headlight, but not enough to make the motor turn.  Since you've checked everything else, this 99.99% points to dirty wheels as the culprit.

The locomotive comes with that set is the consolidation.  Bachmann makes beautiful steam locomotive models, but for some reason, the choice of alloy for the driver tires and the tender wheels is one that oxidizes fairly rapidly and heavily.

Translation:  Your locomotive and tender wheels are probably incredibly dirty.  Train sets can sit in a warehouse for years before they are sold, as well as individual locomotives.  I have at least 30 Bachmann steam locomotives and every one of them has needed heavy wheel cleaning treatment upon purchase.

To clean the drivers, place a paper towel moistened with isopropyl alcohol across both rails.  Place the locomotive on the rails covered by the paper towel and the tender on the track behind the paper towel and apply full power.  The wheels should spin rapidly.  If not, jiggle both back-and-forth until contact is made and the wheels spin.  Apply only the very lightest pressure to the engine that still allows the wheels to spin rapidly and push gently side to side to clean the entire surface, and be amazed at all the black crud comes off of your wheels.  You may have to do this a couple of times on successively clean surfaces of towel to get it all off.  Then, place the towel behind the tender and roll it back-and-forth gently pressing down and gently pushing side to side to clean as well. They will be equally as oxidized certainly.

Try this and report back.  If this doesn't work, we will move to Plan B.  This forum has many experienced model railroaders who enjoy helping new people.

I did not know all of that. Thanks.

I know that there are model railroad stores with knowledgeable staff available for questions from remote hobbyists, I just can't think of them right at the moment. 

Len, will that micro trains coupler height gauge work on Bachmann couplers? I saw that item you suggested but I believe it is for a different coupler.

The trouble with Hobby lobby instead of an actual local hobby shop is that they will be no help to you on any kind of issue that might arise. All they do is sell you stuff.

The first thing you need to do is make sure that all the couplers are the right height. N scale being as tiny as it is, a molecular difference between couplers will cause failure. 

You'll need a coupler height measuring gauge that  is compatible with Bachmann couplers.  I'm afraid I won't be much help with that, but I'm sure someone else on the forum can step up to the plate and offer direction.

You ought to have one of these no matter what:

https://midwestmodelrr.com/nmr8/?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8eDh4MGIhQMV-Ut_. _D_BwE

A little editorial from me -  many people enjoy N scale but at my age I just don't want to deal with anything so small and demanding.  The smallest speck of dust on the track will make your train stall, and as you are already finding out, dimensional tolerances are very exacting.  If you are into any kind of operations involving switching, you'll find out that coupling up prototypically is impossible, the little cars are just too light to offer any resistance needed for couplers to function when coupling up.

The above is only opinion, of course. I re-entered Model railroading at a late date just like you have and had to make the decision between N and HO.  I chose HO and I've never regretted it.

I found that EZ track is susceptible to slight warping at the ends from  rail expansion and contraction, while the plastic base does not.  I screw my track down directly to a plywood subbase.  But if you use a foam base and glue the track down like Terry suggested, I'd do it on all corners of the section of track to hold it down where the warpage is.

You have to ask the Bach Man to do it.

Testing voltage with a multi meter is The way to see if you're getting enough voltage in the rear of the layout or not.

When you add another terminal track make sure that you don't get the polarity mixed up where you'll have a short circuit.

Is it free?