I am new to the hobby. At least ten years ago I was given an N scale Bachmann 2-8-2 Mikado & Vandy Tender (ITEM NO. 54551); it's never been out of the box. Now I've got the time and enthusiasm to get started. I bought EZ Command, am building a table (4 x 16) and am looking forward to putting down some track and adding other stuff including more engines. What decoder do I order for the Mikado? My local hobby shop gave a shrug when I asked. How difficult is the installation? The tender still has the old NMRA couplers and they look awful. Do most manufacturers' couplers work with each other or does one need to stick only to one brand? Thanks. Ken
The "NMRA" couplers you refer to are called Rapido couplers, and they were the old standard that is now in its death throes. They are being replaced with knuckle couplers, which are made by several brands, including Micro-trains, Accumate, and McHenry. All knuckle couplers are compatible. You can replace the Rapido on the Mikado with a Micro-Trains #1133 coupler. The Bachmann Mikado was tooled 25 years ago, and as such has no provisions for DCC. That doesn't mean that installing a DCC decoder is impossible, but it will be difficult, and may require you to modify the tender or locomotive. I've never seen the mechanism of one, so I can't offer you anything more specific than that.
Timothy
Dear Ken,
Timothy is correct- installing a decoder in an older loco takes some experience. Fortunately you can run you Mike on analog by using address 10.
Have fun!
the Bach-man
Just watch for overheating of the loco motor at stopped or low speeds; this is the risk of operating a DC loco on a DCC controller.
I believe the biggest challenge in old DC locos is isolating the motor brushes from any electrical contact to the rails. If both brushes are connected through wires, the wires can be cut, de-soldered etc. Any brush that contacts through the frame will require special treatment. One mod I saw to an N scale Bachmann streetcar was to remove the motor, and grind away at the frame for the motor contact until there was clearance to prevent electrical contact, but still provide motor support. Not a trivial task, but possible if you are good at this stuff. A wire was soldered to the brush cap which would connect to the DCC decoder etc. (And always check with a meter to see that the motor really is isolated.)
Have fun carefully,
Charles
Thanks for the responses. Ken