Hello Everyone--

Embarrassing as one of these questions is, l rather ask than damage a new analog SD40-2 loco.  First, what's the best way to remove the shell with damaging it or the chassis? The exploded diagram isn't helpful.  Second, can I install a decoder by simply replacing the circuit board with an after-market "Bachmann Replacement" decoder?  OR must I hardwire one?

Thanks,

Steve

Hello Everyone--

May be someone can help me.  Two of my DCC turnouts - a crossover and a single #5 - do not respond when I press their programmed numbers on the EZ Command unit.   When I plug in the command unit and run trains, using the turnouts as I wish, all turnouts work properly.  Then, after about five minutes, two of four switches (I have two crossovers and two single turnouts) do not respond when I activate them from the command unit. 

I've had the turnouts approximately three years, but have used them sparingly.  I have been running trains now for two weeks without incident -  until yesterday.  The problem still exists.  Interestingly, when I unplug and replug the EZ command unit, all the turnouts work perfectly for about five minutes.  Then the same cycle occurs, the two offending turnouts become unresponsive.  The layout is a small, 5' x 9' dual main set up.  I've tried different numbered keys, have checked the circuit boards, wires, etc. for issues.  Everything appears fine.   

Any clues as to what may be going on?  Can it be fixed?

Thanks,

Steve Williams

Hello--

What would it take to install a decoder in a HO Bachmann analog EMD demonstrator GP30? 
I don't want to hard-wire it and prefer not to substitute a DCC on-board chassis.

Thanks

Steve W.

Hello

Does anyone know if a "plug'n play" decoder exists for analog ho gp30?  Or must I hard wire it?

Thanks

Steve Williams

Hello--

I just acquired a Williams BL2.  It fights 31" diameter, O scale curve. 

How well will it negotiate a 36" diameter radius curve?  Has anyone actually tried this?

Thanks,

Steve W.

Hello Bach-Man

Will the new 89' Alaska/McKinley Dome Cars negotiate a 22" radius?

Thanks,

Steve Williams

Hello Everyone--

I am seeking a Japanese steam thomas by Tomy (not the metallic one).  Have been checking the usual spots (e.g, Ebay), but need your help.

Thanks,

Steve Williams

Hello Everyone--

I am desperately seeking a new Tomy, Japanese talking Percy for my little friend's 12th birthday.  Any help is most appreciated.

Thank you,

Steve Williams

Hello-

My GP38-2 (DDC On Board) worked for 10 minutes on a test track, using Bachmann's Easy Command system.  Then, it just died.  I used different addresses, cleaned the track and wheels, checked all contacts, etc.  Nothing.  I even used DC power - Nothing.  I tried removing the shell to check out wires connections, etc., but I was unsuccessful. 

Before I send the loco back to Bachmann or just cut my losses and buy another one from Trainworld for $40, I would like to hear if anyone else has experienced this?           

Thanks,

Steve

Hello Everyone--

I have a set of tethered HO-scale Trix PA (A-A) units I bought back in May. I test-ran them for 30 minutes and noticed they ran fine, but were a bit on the noisy side (but not excessive). I heard or read somewhere this is normal and didn't give it much thought. I ran them again today for 40 minutes. Again, they ran well but demonstrated the same level of motor noise.

Here's where I need your help: Does anyone own these and experienced the same thing?

Thanks for your help.

Sincerely,

Steve Williams

Hello Everyone--

I have an HO-Scale Bachmann Spectrum F40PH and want to add a little more weight to it (6 ounces to be exact).  I added 2 ounces by filling the fuel tank with lead.  I would like to add 4 more ounces; but, I don't see where more weight can be added.  The chassis fits snuggly against the shell.  No room there.  Very little space exists between the top of the motor/circuit board and the shell's ceiling.  I don't want to place lead weights near a decoder or on the ceiling.  Any ideas where or how I can add more weight?

Thanks,

Steve Williams   

Hello Everyone--

While this topic has been posted before (I believe), time has elapsed with new micro-train products and new ideas (probably) on how to install micro-trains couplers onto Bachmann's amfleet passenger cars.

So... I am looking for input on installing these couplers on my new amfleet cars. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve Williams

Hello--

Does anyone know if Bachmann ever sold, individually, an HO-Scale Spectrum Amtrak F40PH (Phase III [and this is key]) loco with a Bachmann decoder already installed? 

As far as I know, Bachmann has sold decoder equiped F40s (Phase IV) in sets with 3 amfleet cars.  But, I don't think Bachmann manufactured an F40 (Phase III) individually with its brand decoder already on board. 

Any help would be appreciated, especially from the Bach Man.

Thank you,

Steve Williams   

Hello Everyone--

Have any of you had a chance to buy and/or try Bachmann's new HO DCC
turnouts?  What have been your experiences? 

For me, the jury is still out.  I bought 4 DCC #5-turnouts, returned
2 of them (1 because it did not respond to my EZ-command; 1 because
of an anemic switch spring.  I bought 2 DCC #6-single x-overs,
returned 1 because the metal frog was not in gauge and due to an
anemic switch spring).

Overall, I have been very satisfied with Bachmann's EZ-command system
specifically, and their products in general.  In addition, after
shopping around the Internet, I have paid very little for Bachmann
items (e.g., $35 for the DCC #6 x-over). 

But, I must confess, Bachmann's outrageous retail prices and poor
quality control for DCC turnouts may spell the demise of these
items.  That's too bad because most of Bachmann's DCC products work
fine.  I have been a Bachmann HO-Scale proponent for a few years now,
but its really time for the company to get its crap together about
manufacturing reliable DCC and DC HO-scale switches.

Your thoughts?

Steve Williams

Dear Bach-Man

I read recently that some improvements have been made to your HO EZ track, such as, low-profile spike heads, clear tie spacing at the end of each section (can you elaborate, please?), and no more nail holes.  Are there any other things we can look for?

Thanks,

Steve Williams

P.S. Is the new EZ-Track book still on schedule for May?

Hello Everyone--

Well, after much experimentation and a little math, I found one solution (using only EZ track) to an issue with the #5 switch and the proper radius on the diverging track so it runs parallel with the mainline, using the shortest track length from the switch.   The divergent angle of the #5 switch is 12 degrees.  If you use 2 short 33.25 radius 6 degree track sections (item #44508), you will have a 12 degree angle with minimum spacing between the mainline and the passing track.  Furthermore, if you add 3 2-1/4 sections on the mainline (after the switch), the ends of both tracks (the mainline and the passing siding) will be almost equal distant (only fractions of an inch differentiate them).  Finally, I found the parallel spacing between each track to be equal to that of #6 crossover, which I find to be appropriate. 

I would be remiss if I did not give credit to Yampa Bob.  His post on the mathematics regarding divergent angles help put everything together.  So... Thanks Bob. 

I also recognize there are other solutions to this issue.  So, if mine suggestion doesn't work, there are others that may. 

Finally, Mr. Bach-Man, I have broached this subject before.  But, I think it bears repeating.  I am sure many others would find it useful if sections of your #5 and #6 switches came with (a) a radius track piece of the proper angle (coming from the diverging track section) and (b) mainline track extension so that both lined up parallel shortly and equal distant after the switch.  So, again, I implore you to talk to management or engineering about such track sections.  In my humble opinion, this would would be icing on the cake.

Sincerely,

Steve Williams

Hello Everyone--

Has anyone had any experience running Bachmann's 85' Amfleet coach (item No. 13108) on 22" radii?  How did they negotiate this radius, especially with their body mounted couplers? 

Thanks,

Steve

Hello Everyone--

I hoping someone can help me.  I want to find the correct combination of short track pieces emanating from a #5 switch that will form two parallel tracks of equal lengths for both the diverging and main track.  I want the shortest length of track possible coming from the switch and do not want to cut any pieces of track.  What pieces have you used or would recommend? 

As for the distance between the parallel tracks, I would like a minimal, but sufficient space to ensure trains on each track will pass safely.  As a benchmark it would be something equivalent to the distance between the parallel tracks in the #6 crossover, which is about 1/2 inch from one roadbed edge to the other OR about 1-5/8" between each inner most rail.   

Thanks,

Steve   

Hello Everyone--

I want to improve the running capability of the entry level mechanism powering the N-Scale Alaska F7 that came with the McKinley Explorer trainset.  Ultimately, I want to lash up two powered units.  One idea is to place the Alaska F7 shell on a Spectrum Santa Fe chassis.  But, I don't know how well the two will fit.  From pictures I've seen, it looks like some kitbashing will be involved.   If I stay with the original chassis, I think I will cannibalize two other power units and replace the traction tires for better electrical contact.
Is there anything else I can do to improve the running quality of this engine?


Thanks for your input.

Steve

Bach Man--

I want to control EZ track remote (analog) switches with an EZ Command DCC controller instead of a DC powerpack.  Will I be able to retrofit the them with DCC decoders from Bachmann or another company?  Or must I replace them with new EZ DCC equiped switches?