Looks like I was right about the shims!   

Well, I'm glad it worked out to your satisfaction.  btw, i believe the "shims" that Doneldon was referring to are the "cardstock" pieces that I mentioned...they are thin and allow you to adjust the coupler height in small millimeter increments when its necessary, but if it works how you have it, I wouldn't worry about it.

To clarify, I actually only meant to glue the base of the coupler box to the locomotive, NOT glue the cover so that there's no access to the coupler if ever it needs replaced.  I can't really think of any reason NOT to glue the base to the locomotive, I would think it would be sturdier that way, especially after you screw the coupler in.  There really isn't any reason you would ever need the base to be loose again, unless you're scrapping the loco for parts or something.

Use your own judgement though.   

I don't have any Bachmann DCC diesel locomotives (I decided to stick with DC...for me, it was easier to stick with it since I literally have 200 DC locomotives...and I now appreciate the "bigger and better" DCC because it caused prices to fall on DC; also if i ever want a DCC loco, it will still operate on my DC layout, but I don't think it works the other way  ), so I guess I don't totally understand the problem.  Are you saying that the coupler box was actually mounted to the DCC shell?  I hate locos like that because they have trouble keeping coupled to cars when they hit curves.  I think OldTimer's method is probably the best solution here, although some super glue, raw plastic, and your extracted coupler box could do the trick (an older gentleman from whom I acquired a large portion of my collection had a way of using card stock to make the coupler boxes fit to anything...he actually placed an operating coupler on a locomotive that had a dummy coupler...really knew his way around things!) .  To figure the best height, you could always just put the engine against a freight car and compare to find where it should be located. 

Unfortunately, I never imagined this problem...I can't believe Bachmann would do something so strange as to mount the couplers to the plastic...I thought only other inferior brands did that.   

I'm glad your son was happy with the new shell as is...at least you won't have to worry about fixing it again if it doesn't work out!  Good luck!     

You will prob need to do some creative work with a handy dandy utility knife...you're right, the ends of the shell frame are molded differently.  It prob won't be as difficult as you might think, but this is something you might not want to do with your son nearby since it involves a knife (unless its just that the coupler is too short...you might just need to get some couplers with a longer shaft...I saw your vid but I can't tell which problem you have.). 

If I'm misunderstanding the problem, please let me know...

riff...I actually buy boxes at Wal-Mart in the postage/stationary department.  There is a flat, open top box kit sold there that fits about 4 or 5 cars perfectly, and is actually a little more convenient than having the actually boxes as far as storage (and the price is right, also...less than $1/box!).  You can also buy boxes specifically made for storing train engines/cars (complete with foam backing to keep them safe) on walthers.com and other various sites, but this could get quite costly, although each of their boxes holds @20 cars. 

Hey, thanks, Bach Man.  Sorry if I come off as bitter...I don't mean to be.  I'll pass this along to some people at Cass so they make sure they watch for them. 

Thank you for your time...I appreciate it...and I'm still impressed that Bachmann offers the car at all; its probably one of the more unique pieces in the company's history.

I do understand how difficult it is, and I do believe these are scheduled to continue production...someone said that they won't be available til @ October though...which is too late for Cass.  What I'm really getting at is maybe they could get some of the first new ones that are being produced and have them shipped back to the US as soon as they're made...they CAN do that.  And that store at Cass probably could sell several cases of these by seasons end.  I know they are in it to make money on a larger scale, but if this particular car doesn't sell well (I actually think it IS, which is why its hard to find only 9 months after it was introduced!), its because they didn't introduce it in the right markets at the right times.  I really think their sales would go WAY up if they'd do some strategic planning and sell particular items in the area where you actually see the prototype...(how about offer some of those WM 2-8-0s to the WM Scenic RR, for instance...last time I was there, they didn't have any for a similar reason!).  Cass, the place that literally CREATED the prototype for this particular Bachmann product, was not even notified that models of their cars would be made...I personally am responsible for enlightening many of them to this fact (LOL) through my article, but now everyone's disappointed cause they can't be found...ANYWHERE...not even at Walthers!

So, Bach Man, what's the hold up with getting more of these cars made...especially the Cass Scenic Railroad ones?  I realize you can't make every locomotive/car all the time, but it doesn't seem like quite enough of these were manufactured (keep in mind CSRR operates them in trains of 5 cars so many collectors will want that many; in fact, maybe you could offer an exclusive train set with the cars and Shay #5...call it "The Bald-Knobber", lol   ).  I personally wrote a review of the car which appeared in the latest issue of The Log Train (the quarterly publication of MSR&LHA, CSRR's supporting organization), and now people are aware of it and can't find it anywhere...not even the one place in the world where it should be easiest to find:  CASS!  Whenever you do get more manufactured, please do contact the official Cass souvenir shop, the Cass Country Store...the owners have tried and tried to lay their hands on a case or two of the cars but can't find them at all and have been very frustrated by this.  Personally, I would have thought Bachmann would have offered them to Cass first since they are really based on that line...they would sell like hotcakes there!  The guy who owns the only other souvenir store in Cass, the "Shay Railroad Shop", did have a couple dozen when I was there May 21-23, but had sold them all at the $29.00 SRP by the time I returned June 11!!!  And they aren't even at peak season yet!  Please see what you can do ASAP, and keep in mind, Cass closes its season in October, so Fall will be too late!  Maybe you could expedite it for them special or something since you didn't give them dibs in the first place.  If you need contact info, let me know.  

Thanks!  

P.S. Please let me know that you have read this, Bach Man, otherwise I will start a new thread!!!

Doneldon--

Personally I don't think 6067 has been done in DCC for public purchase, the locos on the video were probably built as test dummies with whatever shells they had laying around...if riff really wants that exact loco #, then he will have to try and make it work.

I haven't read every single post here so forgive me if I'm repetitive...

riff99, its EXTEMELY hard to believe that you can't find the Santa Fe engine...when I was younger (mid 1990s) it seemed to me like red and silver Santa Fe engines (along with yellow and grey Union Pacific) were the only HO engines available, and being a kid on the East Coast, that was very disappointing to me, lol.  I would have given anything for a B&O, Chessie, or WM engine back in those days (I always figured people on the west coast received east coast road names while we received only west coast road names...what's bad, I'm probably right about that!).  I guess times change, though, don't they?

Anyway, is the engine number you are looking for #6067?  If so, I HAVE IT!  It was the second engine I ever owned, and came in a trainset called "Thunderbolt", I believe.  It is NOT, however, DCC.  I suspect many of those engines in that video have hoods from earlier locomotives, as I also own many of the cars from various other train sets I bought over the years as well.  Bachmann didn't used to change their road numbers very much, but nowadays it seems they change them every year or so (just how many different numbered WM consolidations are out there now?  I have three, lol.).  Because of this fact, I'd say a used #6067 should be a piece of cake to find...although it was built as DC, I'm sure it would be simple to buy one for cheap and then switch out the hood onto a DCC equipped base, right (I think they're interchangeable aren't they?)?  In fact, here's a link to one on eBay right now: 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Bachman-Santa-Fe-Diesel-Electric-Loco-6067-2880-/250640139015?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item3a5b510307

Happy railroading...good to know we have another up and coming railfan in our midst.  Starting him out early...he'll be a lifer!  

cool videos...thanx for sharing! 

Quote from: CNE Runner on May 03, 2010, 09:59:31 AM
There's a difference? Wow...I didn't know that.

Let see: we are running little plastic/brass/diecast approximations of real trains past plastic people that never seem to move. OK. Our towns are filled with buildings constructed of plastic, hydrocal or thin wood...usually having little to no interiors. OK. Rolling stock goes from place to place - hauling nothing. OK. Huge beings look down on our landscape...making sure everything is going according to plan (and occasionally giving a recalcitrant car a little shove). OK. Our scenery is constructed of foam or plaster and is populated with vegetation composed of bits of dyed foam whilst our trees are 'grown' with plastic trunks and foam 'leaves'.

Yeah...that sounds like 'operation'. Personally I play with my toys.

Just my opinion,
Ray

Ummm, Ray,

I don't think anyone here will argue that they think its real...at least I hope not.  However, there are a lot of people who have large layouts who "operate" their trains on semi-realistic schedules complete with waybills...the whole 9 yards.  I don't personally go to this extreme but I still prefer the terminology "operate" to "play"...it sounds more "grown up" (and in reality we are "operating"...a power pack!  ).  I DO respect those who have model train layouts large enough to justify the town to town to town operation with the freight mixing yards, schedules, and stuff.  It would be neat to be able to "fool" myself into thinking my "toys" were the "real thing".   

Quote from: Johnson Bar Jeff on April 30, 2010, 11:44:19 AM

Quote from: mattyg1306 on April 29, 2010, 09:40:04 PM
And just how many people model West Virginia?  It must be one of the most often depicted areas for model railroads...it seems like almost every issue of Model Railroader features at least one story about someone who models WV.  It really is a beautiful place, and easy to depict in a past era.

If it isn't West Virginia, it's Colorado narrow gauge.    Trains, especially steam trains, and mountains just seem to belong together, I guess. 

Yes, that's true!  And don't get me wrong...I LIKE having WV covered in every issue of Model Railroader!    Its just funny...if all the railroads...including my own...were real...WV would be quite a busy place!  And, you're right, without mountains our layouts would look so plain and "FAKE"...mountains are what make it interesting and realistic.  I just wish I could find some decent pre-fab backdrops to use on my layout...the Instant Horizons from Walthers just don't represent WV mountains well enough at all   

DrNick--

Are you doing a full "realistic" layout or just something to run your trains around?  I started out with Bachmann E-Z track when I was newer to the hobby just so that I could switch it around now and then without too much fuss.  HOWEVER, now that I have decided to do a more permanent layout (and it sounds like YOU are building a more permanent layout), I personally recommend obtaining Atlas "Flex-Track" (sorry, Bach Man)...it is easy to customize to whatever shape you want, and is relatively cheap compared to the Bachmann track that you CAN'T shape yourself (@ $19.95 for 5 3-foot sections which you can cut with heavy duty pliers and shape and curve as you want).  Atlas switches are also cheaper than their Bachmann counterparts.  You will also need to get some cork roadbed...which is also relatively cheap...I purchased an entire box for $19.95 with enough to do my ENTIRE 9x9 layout complete with sidings and spurs...and still have a few sections to spare!

As far as DC wiring goes, I was a novice when I started mine, but have learned a great deal just from putting it together over the past couple years.  The Atlas insulated rail joiners will work to separate the current(if you get the correct size...I made the mistake of getting Code 83 because they cost less but then they wouldn't fit because I have Code 100 track...I believe all of Bachmann's track is Code 100).  If you are using the same power pack for both tracks, I recommend using the "common rail" method...that is, you do NOT insulate one common rail on both tracks, and only "break" the other one to separate the current.  This is best if you are going to be installing toggle switches.  With the toggles, this will also allow you to break the track in many places such as sidings so you can stop a train without derailing it while running others on the mainline...all tracks running from the same power supply.  You can do this even if you decide to go with E-Z track.  You can buy spools of wiring at Radio Shack and a soldering iron and solder at Walmart to complete this task.  You will also need terminal blocks which can be found at online hobby retailers if not in stores.  It sounds complicated, but is very simple (you may already know this, though).  Let us know if you have any more questions or need me to clarify this.