Quote from: Terry Toenges on March 18, 2017, 01:01:36 AM
Thanks. I was hoping someone from Bachmann could tell me what sizes they use.

You're welcome.  

Best of luck with that, given how infrequently those kinds of questions are answered by any of the Administrators here. I can tell you one thing though that they are very adept at....

Quote from: Bill123 on March 17, 2017, 01:20:28 PM
If I have offended the Buchmann Co., Look at the insult they
give their customers charging $40 for 2 Blocked E-Z track at
$40   

Not to mention, the insult bestowed by still outfitting train sets with steel track and plastic spring knuckle couplers....

Have a drill gauge around, the kind with holes, that you can hold up and match to the hole, to give you an idea of the ID?  Then you can get sense a of what ID the washers you need to look for, should be.

War Thunder, how about the heights I had inquired about?

Proper tools do help the job get done properly.

Quote from: Len on March 15, 2017, 06:28:09 PM
a variable temp, chisel tip soldering iron would be better.

Len

A Weller WLC100 soldering station would be even better, in addition to multiple settings there is an offering of a variety of tips for different jobs.

Quote from: Piyer on March 14, 2017, 06:09:46 PM
He who dies with the most trains will probably be featured on a memorial episode of Hoarders: Buried Alive. 

Agree, LOL 

Gotta say War Thunder, that is a pretty sad story, all in all.   What the heck took you so long to get divorced?!?

I don't collect trains and train stuff, but do enjoying running them. 

I like building my layout, custom cutting track; I like to buy locos that need some work and I can then get them to run great.  I like to renovate freight cars I have from when I was a kid, tossing talgo trucks and horn hook couplers for knuckle couplers and better trucks and wheel-sets, adding weight to them, weathering and building kits and getting them all to run right.  I also like to change out bulbs for LEDs and like the electrical work associated with the hobby.  Enjoy soldering and the doors that opens.

What got me into it was getting a cruddy AHM set when I was 5, for Christmas. 

I like the sound of the trains and cars when running and like the look too.  It is not an obsession for me but an opportunity to escape from real life and a provides a distraction.  I believe in everything in moderation.

Quote from: Warflight on March 13, 2017, 04:55:21 PM
I'm told the EZ Mate II are on par with any others out there)

Don't know who told you that.  While they are good/adequate, they are NOT on par with Kadees, no debate.

After you get them and install them, would be interested to know from you, how their heights are/compare, against each other as well as the height of the coupler on the loco you are using to pull them.

Quote from: Warflight on March 13, 2017, 04:55:21 PM
Ooh, yes! I do want to know! At some pint

Just make it known, when that point is.

It would behoove you, if you intend on buying more rolling stock as time goes along, to purchase a Kadee Coupler Height Gauge. I prefer the plastic version as this will not create a short if you put it on the tracks w/o turning the power off first. They also make a metal version.  This way, no matter what you buy, you can gauge the coupler heights.  You may find you need a coupler now and again that is  other than a center shank, such as underset or overset shank.  This opens up a world of other opportunities by allow you to also modify any rolling stock to be able to accept a center shank through adding styrene shims when there is no coupler box present to begin with. More on that if you want to know.

Regardless of what style spring coupler you get, I always put a very tiny dab of CA GEL glue on the spring at the end closest to the shank.  This allows it to still operate but helps to keep the spring from flying off into outer space where you will never, ever find it.  And then you will be left with an inoperable coupler until you replace the spring or the coupler.  I do this before installation as it is easier that way.

I saw this (your) posting over on the MRR Forum today.  

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/261781.aspx

I believe you would make richG/Y/1998/lexxon proud to have taken him up on his suggestion to post here.

What was mentioned over there about steel track is right on the $$ in my opinion but everything else positive that was said, I concur with.

Kid's lucky; have him pick out a lottery ticket (but you buy it to make it legit).

Thanks for the additional info, Len.

Thank you for the reply James.

Quote from: James in FL on March 11, 2017, 05:36:47 PM
I never tried to cut a curved piece of track in the mitre box.
That might prove slightly challenging...
While Len's method of passing the saw blade parallel to the bottom of the rail to open the clearance to add joiners does have merit, I think it may be difficult for the inexperienced to pull off.
Then you would have to exercise care not to separate the rail from the spikes, or worse yet, break off the spike heads.
Just IMO.

I concur, hence the reason I wondered about the possibilities of pulling the rail away from the ties.

I have luckily never had to cut EZ Track, but once again have to give the advantage to traditional sectional track when it comes to that.  I can cut curves to any size I want using it, no muss, no fuss.

Quote from: Len on March 11, 2017, 01:17:15 PM
Between the rails and ties, like this:



Len

Great illustration Len, thank you.  But, WOW!  Seems like mighty fine work.  Is there not a high risk doing it that way, for snagging the rail and bending it upward and perhaps pulling it from the ties? 

Quote from: James in FL on March 11, 2017, 03:51:14 PM
In the past, I have also shortened rail joiners as necessary.

Thank you James.  What is your trick?  Any time I have tried that using side (or diagonal cutters ("dykes")) I have always mashed the joiner so it will no longer connect the track straight, even if I can still slide it onto the rail.

Let me ask this in general; how's this go for cutting curves?

How?  By then cutting from the underside of the roadbed toward the ties and rails?

Thanks for the explanation.

And there is room enough the way it is, to just be able to slide rail joiners onto the cut ends, w/o having to do anything else?