Peter,

Most of the insulators do crack, the solution is quite simple.  Normally, I don't like super glue, but here is a good application, remove one of the axles; put a drop of CA on the stub insert and replace in the cracked insulator, repeat on all  of the rest of the pilot axles.  Give them some time to dry, test each axle, if one is still loose repeat (and repeat) until it is no longer loose.

Not an engineering solution, but it works.  The insulators can be replaced by a white plastic tube from Plastruct, but again the super glue will have to be used.

Barry

Chuck,

Thank you.

Barry

Need to address the double-heading of 4-6-0s.  I convert all 4-6-0 pilots to an arm rather than leave them in the crescent slot.  That is mentioned to introduce the extension to the arm which proceeds forward, drops down below the cowcatcher and then upwards to finally be bent to engage the bottom of the gear box of another coupler at the proper height to engage the talgo coupler. 

The reason for this is the great arc that the pilot beam goes in, in a corner/turn.  The center of the pilot (where the coupler is) is outside of the outside rail.

The original pilot coupler location is perfect for body mounted couplers on freight cars.  Bachmann couplers can be body mounted, but usually we go for KaDees.

Barry

Thanks, Bill;

I think that is something I can't do (it's no fun).

Barry

I posted this info in another Trolley topic, but thought it best to post this info separately.

Over the years I have built replacement "power bricks' for the trolleys.  I started out using big Pittman motors,
but too expensive (for me and for the customer).

Later I built a trolley drive using a Shay motor and cluster gear, mated to a Stock Drive axle gear.  Have done about fifteen of these.  I decided to do it properly, so I am building the drill jig for the power block and hope be producing a run of these in the very near future, to hazard a guess probably with in a month.  Haven't completely priced it out yet, but credits would be available for Trolley wheels (or Shay wheels) and Shay cluster gears.

Also will want to buy running Shay motors and the little black cluster gears (two per shay motor block).

These have worked out and I will warrant them as my I do my other products.

Barry

Over the years I have built replacement "power bricks" for the trolleys.  I started out using my big Pittman motors, but too expensive (for me and for the customer).

Later I built trolley drive using a Shay motor and cluster gear, mated to a Stock Drive axle gear.  Have done about fifteen of these.  I decided to do it properly, so I am building the drill jig for the power block and hope to be producing a run of these in the very near future, to hazard a guess probably with in a month.  Haven't completely priced it out yet, but one of the credits would be to have the customer send me the trolley wheels.
Also will be open to buy Shay motors (still running) and the little black cluster gears (two per shay motor block).  These have worked out very well and I will warrant them as my other products.

Barry   

Pace,

No problem, but need to know where to send it.

Barry

623-936-6088

6822 W. Villa St
Phoenix, AZ 85043

barrysbigtrains@live.com

Pace,

I have any axle gear you may be looking for, but I need to know what drive you have.  If the axle gear is narrow (measure about 1/8" or 3/16" wide?).  Is the axle gear on one side of the axle or in the center?

Barry

Pace,

Please understand, we/I am not pushing a repair.  This drive is a bad design superseded by better designs and practices.  Fix if you must, but you will be back, no question.  Best buy the less expensive chassis offered by Bachmann. as I have said the Annie drive is virtually the same as the lower cost offering without having to modify the air cylinders.

Barry

Pace,

The major problem is the design and age of your drive.  We can fix it, and then we'll fix it again, etc.

As I mentioned I think Dave gave the right answer, get the cheaper of the two drives and you'll have the best answer.

I was just thinking how much money we could have saved if Bachmann had had this offer ten years ago.

Barry

Pace,

Dave just beat me to the punch, especially if your loco is a 2nd Gen (first track power).  Dave is right, Bachmann has been offering two version of it's fifth gen drive chassis, the cheaper of the two is what will fit without problems (the more expensive has larger cylinders and requires adapting the air tanks to fit).

If you have a third gen drive, all kinds of solutions come to mind.  The third gen drive problem stems from the motor moving out of it's mount, but that is solved by "strapping the motor". 

If you have a third gen, I will send you the instructions for that fix.

Let me know what you think you have.

Barry

Pace,

In all cases, on a soft surface, a folded up towel, invert the loco so you can get to the bottom of the loco with a phillips screwdriver.  This piece is called the bottom plate, there are about four screws to remove; one near the rear hook and before the lube port (my gift to Bachmann), go about six more inches for the next screw, then down into the bridge section under the pilot truck, another screw and finally between the cylinders and in front of the pilots swing/crescent a long screw that goes all of the way into the bottom of the boiler.

There are two brass or black braces on either side of the smokebox coming from the pilot beam, pull the ends of the braces out of the smoke box sides.  Lift the bottom plate off, go towards the back of the loco and you will see the gears, motor, etc.  (I just remembered, you may not have a lube port if this loco is very old - over ten years).

Barry 

PACE,

In all of the drive generations, the problem is caused by the motor being disconnected from the gear train, or if set screws are involved (not in your unit) a loose screw.

Very likely the motor has moved out of contact with the worm gear.  In your case the motor has a small spur gear, usually white plastic (a friction fit on the motor shaft).  If the motor runs and the gear doesn't move, you'll need a new spur gear (I have them).  If the spur gear moves but any of the next gears in the gear train (non-RR), then examine the gear that is not moving and the gears preceeding it, for the problem.

If it happens to be the plastic spur gear, it is not a good repair to send you the gear only, but will replace with a motor with the gear in place (hopefully for a good amount of time).

Barry

There have been six design generations of Bachmann Big Hauler locos.

Knowing which one you have is the start to discovering how to correct the problem(s).

First Gen: battery powered/plastic track

2nd Gen:  first track powered loco, metal track (indoors only).

3rd Gen: The Plus generation, good gears, bad motor mount.  Fix: strapping the motor.

4th Gen: Single large worm gear, worm on motor to match, metal bracket for the motor, but the plastic bushings on the axle would shift and the motor could then carve up the worm gear.

5th Gen.  First open gearbox, nicely done, but do not overload it.

6th Gen: First gear box with all metal (brass) gears.  The best so far, should perform well over a long time.

Barry 

Pace,

You are confusing us, electric trains have an engine which pulls the train, but the locomotive has an electric motor, not an engine (which is found in cars and trucks).

Do you what age your loco is? 

But basically what is happening is that the motor is disengaged from its gearing, why and how to fix will depend upon which drive you have in the loco.

Barry