Thanks, that is good trouble shooting info.  I turned to my left where my N scale figure 8 is next to my desk and pulled opened a connection.  I was surprised to see that the the train still operated. 

Clearly I am missing something, unless it is that the current returns to the controller via the loco to the opposite track(?).

Thanks, Len.  I just came back to this thread after finding this info in your reply in the "ez track problem."  This info and Joe's folded fig 8 have given me a lot to think about.  That is, I would like to combine the two.  The outer oval becoming a folded fig 8, and the inner oval becoming the fig 8.

I just pulled out my HO sets after about 5 years.  I again set them up as dual ovals with piers for the "outside" oval.  I was playing with AnyRail to see if I could make a figure 8 with 30 deg crossover for the "inner" oval with 18" curves.  It seemed kind of "iffy" and then I saw Joe's folded figure 8 (that search engine is great).  I think I will start there.

My outside oval wraps around the inner oval, both using 18" curved tracks.  Is it possible to continue using the 18" rather that the 22" curves for the folded figure 8.

I started swapping track with my other oval, and the problem has gone away, and did not show up in the other oval.

If there is no power to a piece of track, why does the rest of the oval have power?  Seems as though the circuit in total should be dead.

I just unpacked my HO sets after about 5 years.  I cleaned the tracks with 70% isopropyl alcohol and started testing the two ovals.  My loco stops in generally the same spot/track.  I can push the loco until it gets power again.

What I don't understand is if there is a break in continuity, why does the train run on the rest of the track?

I had to cut 4 pieces of track for my 30 deg crossover, two on each side.  It came as a surprise to me, also, but after purchasing a model saw, I got the job done.

I visited a couple of model shops today.  The first suggested adding weight to my cars, but they didn't have any of the "tire weights" in stock.  When I went to the second R/R model shop, they came up with the same suggestion.

The weights with adhesive backing come in .25 oz (I think it is oz) squares and they suggested cutting them in half for the N scale.  I removed the "coal" from my coal car and placed a .25 weight in front (next to the loco) and that has seemed to fix the problem, running in both directions.  I haven't yet tried it with the half-size, but will do that tomorrow.

It appears that the problem is that when the loco goes across the crossover, it bounces enough to derail the following car.  I have not added weight to any of the other cars, so I guess it just needed the extra weight on the coupler to the loco to stabilize it.

This store, while 25 miles away, is strictly R/R so they have a lot of goodies.  An ATLAS 40000388 N Scale GP40 Diesel Locomotive (Western Pacific 3532) caught my eye, so that is currently running on my fig 8.

I was experiencing some slowdowns and so I tried my 70% isopropyl wipes, and they did a good job.  I think I will break out my two HO sets and clean the tracks.  If they work as well, then I will probably run those two large ovals around the fig 8.  Hey, I paid for them, I might as well use them.  'Course that means some kind of table large enough to hold them.  I guess it never ends ...

I isolated the crossover in an oval and found that the track is good in one direction and fails in the opposite direction, for both combinations.  I numbered the opposite sides, such that "3 to 1" is okay, but "1 to 3" fails; "2 to 4" is okay, but "4 to 2" fails.

I have looked at the crossover closely and cannot see any problems.  At least I found that the short connectors weren't the problem.

Recreated the fig 8 and still have the problem in one direction.

Quote from: kmcsjr on February 22, 2015, 07:05:18 AM
Also, take the figure 8 apart and build a straight track in the direction of the derailment. What happens? it might give you an idea.

Are you suggesting creating a small oval with the crossover as part of the straight track?

I have been looking at the guardrails and they seem to be clean.

I learned the hard way to check the joint with my finger to ensure that the connection is correct.

I purchased a rug to put on the top of the plastic table, which really reduces the running noise.

I just thought to try running the train the in opposite direction, and it doesn't have the derailing problem.  Curious!  But at least I can enjoy the fruits of my labor and expenses.

I thought to add that I am using one 1 1/2" and one 1" piece on each side of the 30 deg crossover.  However, I was too intent on the cutting and the two similar sized pieces are in line with each other.  Doesn't seem to be a problem, but wish I hadn't done that.  Maybe I will hold off on the gluing for awhile. 

Seems like it has been longer than a month since I started this thread, but thanks for all of your help, folks.

I received the 30 deg crossover, but had to order a saw/blade combo from Micro-Mark to do the surgery on the short tracks.  I just did the trimming and the cuts were not too bad.  I used two 1 1/2" and two 1" sections.   

The tech at Bachmann suggested gluing/epoxying the pieces to the crossover.

Both loops use 11 7.25" curved tracks.

However, the cars derail on the crossover.  The diesel handles it okay, although it still sounds like a bumpy ride.  It seems like the "re-railer" guides on the crossover may be causing this problem.

Has anyone had this problem with the 30 deg crossover?   

Let me restate this question.  When I try to connect two tracks to each side of the crossover there isn't space for both connections.  The railroad bed would have to be cut away.

Here is piece from the Bachmann site:

http://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=2786

I received my E-Z Track 30 deg crossover, but the piece seems too short, to allow two pieces of track on each side.  What am I missing?

Very interesting and informative thread.  MrMoose, I am very new and beginning to RR modeling.  Would explain what this "foam" is and where you found it.

I believe I will use the flex track and DCC locos in the future, but retain the E-Z Track figure 8 as a stand alone center piece.  I should be able to come up with a design to integrate the two (not electrically, of course).  I don't want to throw away the money that I have spent, so far.

I may have mentioned that I have a couple of Bachmann HO sets that I increased to larger ovals, interleaved with a set of trestles, so that they would run parallel on the floor around my coffee table.  They are, when unpacked , about 6' x 3'.  I stopped using them a few years ago because I had to constantly clean the track.  I have seen some advice to use denatured alcohol to clean the tracks, which I will try.

What are your thoughts about integrating both scales in one layout, as I continue with this hobby?  Will it look weird?