I'm working with HO EZ Track and would like to know what I need to make a parallel passing siding using the EZ Command DCC #6 turnouts. Can't seem to get the right curves and inserts to make it parallel and its driving me, well...loco! I'd appreciate some guidance. Thank you!
Why not try a crossover or a double crossover?
I just had the turnouts on hand and thought it might be worth a try
The offset leg of a #6 turnout diverges at 10deg. So to get a parallel siding, you have to use a curve with a 10deg arc as the return.
The 1/3 section of 18in radius is the only 'stock' curve with a 10deg arc. Except for the 33.3" radius 1/3 section, the 'stock' larger radius curves all have larger arcs:
22" radius: Full section 22.5deg arc, 1/2 section 11.25deg arc
26" radius: Full section 18deg arc
28" radius: Full section 18deg arc
26" radius: Full section 18deg arc
33.3" radius: Full section 18deg arc, 2/3 section 12deg arc, 1/3 section 6deg arc
35.5" radius: Full section 18deg arc
So you'll have to cut down a bigger stock size curve to make a 10deg arc if you want a parallel return larger than 18" radius.
Len
Simple answer, cut a piece of track to fit. Put the cut end away from the switch.
Or, much better, use flex track on cork roadbed for the siding. It will sit a little lower than the EZ track and look very prototypical, sidings most of the time were lower than the main.
Thank you for each of these suggestions! That gives me something to work on tomorrow. I'll see if I can make these work.
Cutting down a 'stock' curve isn't all that hard to do if you have a square something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-8-in-x-12-in-Steel-Carpenter-Square-100/100148335 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-8-in-x-12-in-Steel-Carpenter-Square-100/100148335)
Just put a straight or two on the straight leg you want parallel to the passing siding, and the curve with the radus you want on the diverging leg.
Hold the one leg of the square against the straight rail closest to the curve, with the other leg laying on the curve section. Watch the markings on the leg as you slide the square away from the switch frog. The curved rail distance will get greater, until you reach to top of the arc, then start getting smaller as you pass it.
Mark the top of the arc, and using the square, draw a line across the curve section at that point. This is you cut line for making a 10deg arc curve. I normally use a 52-tooth Zona saw to cut the plastic, and a Xuron track cutter for the rails. Some folks use a Dremel with a cutoff disc, but I don't like the burning plastic smell.
Len
Thanks Len, for the great info...it worked slick!
You're welcome. Glad to have helped.
Len